I'm going to build a stainless CAI to go on my VE after the swap, and I want to copy the best CAI known for the VE. And for all you patent/copyright cops, I'm not going to manufacture these, I just want to build myself a stainless CAI based on the best model out there, and save myself some money by doing it myself.

So I'm not sure if I should go 3" the whole way, or go 3" for the filter to MAF pipe and 2.5" from the MAF to the TB.

What's the consensus on what the best CAI is for the VE?

probably would get a better responce in the VE section

probably would get a better responce in the VE section

You're right! I'm just so used to posting in here that it didn't occur to me to post there. Thanks for the move mods.

i have a ebay spec-v cai i will be using, but it is a little old so i might be upgrading soon, if you make a better one let me know whats up. i'm going to try and get in the shop this weekend. How are doing with your swap?

i have a ebay spec-v cai i will be using, but it is a little old so i might be upgrading soon, if you make a better one let me know whats up. i'm going to try and get in the shop this weekend. How are doing with your swap?

I haven't started on it yet. I've got an ACT clutch and prothane mounts on the way. The first autocross of the season is March 26th, so I want to do the swap before then so I can run the whole season with the VE.

If you are making it yourself I would just say be as original as possible. Make it "Custom" :D

Also why did you decide on stainless. Why not alluminum?



As for the best CAI on the market I would have to say HS is the cleanest looking one that seems to function very well.

Use Aluminum. You can get 3 inch aluminum piping from ebay cheap

Use Aluminum. You can get 3 inch aluminum piping from ebay cheap


Very true Dre. They actually sell some pretty wicked kits. They already come polished and what not.

I wanted to go wtih stainless because I can weld it easier. Aluminum is a bitch to weld, especially when it's thin. I suppose I could use 4 couplers instead of 3 and not have to weld any butt seams, and thread plastic nipples into holes in the MAF to TB pipe and not have to weld aluminum tubes on. Cost aside, is there any reason why I should go with aluminum over stainless? Even stainless isn't going to cost much, less than $100 easily.

There's another thread where someone lost hp switching from WAI to CAI, so I'm curious as to why you would want to go this route?

^ ur talking about serbs thread.

i also agree run a wai.

stratton.

If you go stainless, your almost defeating the purpose of an intake. I bought 6 aluminum J-bends (polished) for $106 shipped from ebay.

If you go stainless, your almost defeating the purpose of an intake. I bought 6 aluminum J-bends (polished) for $106 shipped from ebay.

truth B told!

http://www.abnormala.com/pictures/Charles011.jpg
http://www.abnormala.com/pictures/Charles012.jpg

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Very cool looking intake. That thing has to get hot as hell being stainless?

Thats why I would think that alluminum will stay cooler. Also the allumium weighs alot less.

Is the MAF really close to the TB or is it gone completely? I must be blind. Looks like you put some time into that.

you can look carefully and see the maf near the tb. i wouldnt think that would be all that great having that big of piping then that neck down that our maf's do and then to the tb thats larger. i say do a stand alone and do away with maf all together.

Stainless has a LOWER thermal conductivity than Aluminium, it will gain less heat than the same design in Ali.

Mike

There's another thread where someone lost hp switching from WAI to CAI, so I'm curious as to why you would want to go this route?


Have you thought that maybe something else led to the loss in HP. CAI are generally considered to be a proven mod. Also, just looking at it logically, we all know that colder air provides more HP then Hot air. No matter what you do with the pipe length it just makes sence to make sure it's as cool as possible and not effected by engine heat.

I have actually made a CAI for my VE. It's not cheaper if you use good quality parts. But if you make the maf adapter you should save money. I used K+N and a Maxima MAF adapter from Place Racing. My thoughts were and still are to keep the maf a decent distance from the TB. If you are using a VE MAF the pipe/maf difference is very small when using 3 inch tubing. I don't logically see any real benifit to worring about where the MAF is in the pipe because in the end you want to keep it about the same distance as nissan had it from the TB. Once you do that you end putting the MAF in a pretty standard location (compared to other CAI's). Then the hole pretty has to go where it has to go. One of the things I did sweat the details on was the Air Filter and how it is protected from direct air thru the bumper. I built a shield to prevent the air from hitting it directly and possible causing a Low Pressure zone during 100mph runs. Interesting enough after I built mine Kojima had some issues with his 300zxTT and the two filters in the bumper causing turbulance at high speed. I used sheet aluminum to force the air above the filter but into the wheelwell. On the dyno I tried to open the area a little so that the MAF had a decent amount of airflow with no wind going thru the bumper area.

I have a pr cai with maf adaptor I may be willing to sell if I don't sell the whole car soon. Make me an offer.