How much is having the 46 trim compressor wheel going to hurt me when I go to my new 2.0L motor? Should I send the turbo and get it upgraded to a 50 trim or bigger (looking at 20+psi) I know you said that when someone gets close to 24psi a 57 trim is better.

Danny

Thanks

Originally posted by TurboMiata
How much is having the 46 trim compressor wheel going to hurt me when I go to my new 2.0L motor? Should I send the turbo and get it upgraded to a 50 trim or bigger (looking at 20+psi) I know you said that when someone gets close to 24psi a 57 trim is better.


If you're stepping up to a 2.0L motor, I would upgrade to a 50 trim compressor wheel and a 0.82 A/R compressor housing. That should support about 410-420 or so wheel hp.

If you want to run more than about 24 psi of boost, you should step up to the Stage V turbine wheel and the 60 trim compressor.

I wouldn't do any intermediate upgrades.

How will the current turbo work for temportary uses. (swap is costing a lot of money right now). Do you think I could break 400whp with the 46 trim..

BTW where is the best place to get a .82 housing. Does anyone have one or two for sale ? :D

For street I will probably run about 18-20psi (this motor is strong as hell) I will only run 18-20psi if I can get it on pump gas without knock (I think I can) For race day with some 116 octane I will turn boost to about 25-28psi. I know that is too much for the 46 trim, but just till I get the money for the stage V turbine wheel. BTW what is the part number for the Stage V turbine wheel and shaft.


Also you were perfectly on the money with this turbo on the 1.8 You said 300whp or so at 15psi. At 15psi I did 301. You are the man!!! 16.5psi I did 317. I would of loved to turn it to 24psi and see if I hit 400 but the 1.8 is a weak POS... They spin rod bearings all the damn time..

Danny

Thanks again.

Originally posted by TurboMiata
How will the current turbo work for temportary uses. (swap is costing a lot of money right now). Do you think I could break 400whp with the 46 trim..


Not with the 0.64 A/R turbine housing. With a 0.82 housing, yes, I have no doubt. I actually wouldn't bother to upgrade the 46 trim wheel to the 50 trim wheel. It will buy you a few extra hp (maybe 20), but you will soon be up against turbine flow limits anyway. I think you'll only get maybe 330 or so hp with the .64 A/R housing on a 2.0L. Maybe more, depending on how good your tuning is and how good the chamber is. The best SR20's only get about 320 whp on the 0.64 housing. Once you go over about 17 psi, the car stops making power.

[B][QUOTE]
BTW where is the best place to get a .82 housing. Does anyone have one or two for sale ? :D
[\B][\QUOTE]

Depends on what you have now. You can get the non-wastegated 4-bolt housing from any Garrett dealer. That should be outline interchangable with the 0.64 A/R, if you currently have the 4-bolt downpipe and no internal wastegate on the turbine housing. If you have the 5-bolt internally wastegated housing, then I'd say get the turbine housing from Turbonetics. I can get you the part numbers tomorrow for the housing if you tell me your outlet configuration. That way, you'll be able to use the same downpipe.

[B][QUOTE]
For street I will probably run about 18-20psi (this motor is strong as hell) I will only run 18-20psi if I can get it on pump gas without knock (I think I can)
[\B][\QUOTE]

I know that Miatas are very detonation resistant, but I think you will have a hard time running more than 17 psi or so on pump gas. Maybe you'll do better since you don't have to run shitty california pea water gas, though.


[B][QUOTE]
BTW what is the part number for the Stage V turbine wheel and shaft.
[\B][\QUOTE]

I'm not sure. Garrett doesn't sell that combo.

If you are going to push the turbo really hard, try to measure back pressure (turbine inlet pressure). Looking at engine delta P (intake manifold boost pressure minus exhaust manifold back pressure) is an excellent indicator of how well the turbo is working.

I am not using a Miata motor for this. It is a JDM 626 motor. I ran 18psi on New Orleans 93 octane with no knock. I am running Electromotive TEC II now. Believe it or not you were a big decision on deciding to leave the link. I really respect what you say (besides Shiv calling you a big orange ape :D) You said about how you thought the keypad and the computer itself was crap. After that I decided to sell the link and now I have the TEC. Best decision on the car yet...

I have the 5 bolt WG housing right now. When I go to the new motor I have no problem going to the 4 bolt as I need a new DP anyway.

Here is a clip from my other post if you did not see it.

Here is the reason I am asking. I found out Mazda has a motor VERY simialar to the SR20, but on paper seems a little better. It came in some 626's in europe and japan.

86mm Bore 86 mm stroke

36mm intake valves, 30 mm exhaust

Forged crank rods and pistons (pistons might be hyper, confliction info).

Exhaust ports identical to 2JZ supra motor in size and angle. 9.5 compression (if you can find turbo one it is 8.8) Same size bearing journals as Small Block Chevy. Main girdle. Piston squirters. Agressive cams, dual valve springs. Valvetrain is good up to 8800 rpm's.

The motor made 170hp 6500 160 ftlb at 4500 in NA form and 260hp and 283tq with 13.5psi on the RARE turbo model. Only difference between turbo and non turbo is the compression on pistons. Same cams, same type of pistons. Everything the same.

I am considering replacing my 1.8 with one of these instead of building a 1.8 (built ones still have problems with spun bearings) Apaprently the bottom end flexes a bit. The motor will require some fabrication to get into the miata (custom mounts and work on the tranny bell housing some.) Electronics is a No briainer as I am getting 720 injectors and have a TEC II already wired in stand alone mode. Making the bellhousing and mounts is not hard either. Someone with a probe with only JE pistons (9:1) did 430hp at 19psi. Not sure on turbo but the AF line looked like crap. VERY rich. He said only about 15 degrees total advance. Some race gas some 93 octane. He was using a SDS.

Another nice thing is that you can use the old 2.2 turbo probe crank (F2T motor) and it fits right in. Custom rods and pistons with 89mm bore and you are over 2.3L. That is in the future. I think I can get this motor over 400hp in stock form.

Just wanted to get Ideas from yall since this seems to be a similar motor to yall's great motor. I was actually thinking about SR20 but I would have to run in the Outlaw class ( I am about to get serious in the IDRC and the drag circuit in general. I think this motor is a good step.

Danny

BTW RX7 Trans and 8"rear end about to go into the car. Finally a strong drive train.



Is turbonetics the only place that sells the .82 with the 5 bolt housing.

Just get me the PN for the .82 housings. Both 4 and 5 bolt.


You are a great guy no matter what Shiv Says :D


BTW you keep on saying .64 housing... Do you mean .63? And in your first post you said .82 compressor housing... you meant turbine? Just making sure.
Thanks man.

Originally posted by TurboMiata
I am not using a Miata motor for this. It is a JDM 626 motor. I ran 18psi on New Orleans 93 octane with no knock.


How much total advance were you using around the torque peak (around 4500 RPM)? How much on the top end? Don't want to make you give away all your secrets, I was just curious. 18 psi on 93 octane is pretty good! The Miata motor seems really detonation resistant for some reason.


After that I decided to sell the link and now I have the TEC. Best decision on the car yet...


I don't think you'd be anywhere near the power you're making now with the Link.


I have the 5 bolt WG housing right now. When I go to the new motor I have no problem going to the 4 bolt as I need a new DP anyway.


I would run the 4-bolt housing, then. It is a little cleaner because it doesn't have the wastegate port in the side of the inlet section.

Garrett part number is 409526-0938. You should be able to get it for under $150.



Is turbonetics the only place that sells the .82 with the 5 bolt housing.


No, we sell that one, too. It's part number 445887-0004. I would run the 4-bolt, though.


You are a great guy no matter what Shiv Says :D


Shiv's alright for a prissy Poodle-driving girly man :-)


BTW you keep on saying .64 housing... Do you mean .63?


Yeah, sorry. 0.63. The 0.64 is the small T-28 housing.



And in your first post you said .82 compressor housing... you meant turbine? Just making sure.


Yeah, I mean turbine. Sorry, I was typing faster than I was thinking last night.

Rob

Ill dig up my datalog. I know it was over 20.. I would say somewhere around 22-24* maybe more. The 93 octane is real good here.

I am sure shiv has gone over the merrits of the 60-2 crank wheel and spark scatter. My dynograph is incredible smoother now. Looks like a normal graph.. With the damn link it was jagged as all hell. I picked up 30+hp and 30+ftlb of torque by JUST the ecu change.

Since you had nothing to do with the miata community, and know what you are talking about it finally got me to make the jump.

Thanks.

The car is also a lot smoother now!

I saw one turbo miata run with the link, and the dyno curve terrified me. It was so peaky and jagged, I was sure the car was going to blow up on the dyno.