I've gone through and edited this post to sum up everything so far in the thread so that it is easy to see the answers. I figure it'll be kind of a nice FAQ for B15 swappers... :)
There are still some questions without answers. If you know something please post it and I'll add it to this post.
Thanks for all of your responses!

I've got a 2000 Sentra SE /pp with 42000 miles on the clock.

When buying a head, will it come with a distributer, or will the distributer in my SR20DE RR head work?
It will be possible to use your existing distributor.

I know the DE exhaust manifold doesn't line up with the VE head, but how bad will that affect performance? Is there a place where I can get a stock VE exhaust manifold for around $100 or less? (Or am I doomed to buy a $500+ dollar Gen 6 Hotshot header?)
Buy the Gen VI Hotshot and know that the car will run much better and its worth spending the extra $$ now.
if you want a stockish header, maybe you could find an 20v header and somehow use your stock heatshields on it

I have an Injen CAI for my current motor. After researching this, it seems like it wont bolt up to the VE. Can someone confirm this?
Your engine is a low port. So is the VE.

If possible, I want to use the stock ECU with the VE head. Are there any emissions sensors that will be missing on the head that will not play well with my current ECU? Also, how well will it deal with the different CR, injectors, etc. I'm fine with the rev limiter where it is at.
If you want the factory ECU to run this setup, keep the SR16VE camshafts or better yet, some SR20VE cams.
using an e-manage would allow you to tune it and raise the rev limiter, but im not sure if it will work on the b15's
If you use your stock ECU you are not going to get the full advantage of the VVL motor since your computer won't let you rev over 6800RPM. It may only be incrimentally faster than your current engine.
It is possible to use the factory ECU but require something to activate NEO VVL. Try and get a complete head with intake manifold and throttle body, makes the swap a LOT easier. Sensors can swapped over as required... Engine Coolant Temp sensor, etc. Of course, the car will run a LOT better if you can get a custom program to suit your engine setup.

When you say a custom program will make it run better, do you mean more power, or a better idle, etc?

It seems like the SR16VE head will bolt up to the SR20 bottom end. Are there any funny issues to be aware of here? (Besides plugging certain oil passages and tapping new ones.)
The head is a pretty easy fitment, just take your time and do lots of measurements. Also fit a thin metal headgasket to increase the DE's compression ratio a little.

Can I use an oil filter adapter like the turbo guys to run oil to the line in the VE head?


I've read that the oil pump on the 2000-2001 SR20 is the same as on a VE. Does this mean it will have the pressure needed to run the VVL components as well as the rest of the engine safely?
Your oil pump will run the VVL assembly with the factory oil pressure.

Will I need to remove the engine from the bay to swap the head, or is it something I can do without an engine lift?
It is possible to fit the head with the engine in the engine bay, can get a little fiddly but def possible. Be careful with the timing chain and get it on TDC!

What is the difference performance wise between the stock SR16 cams and the 20V cams? Is this in between the SR16/20 cams and the SR16 N1 cams?


When I order the new head, will I need it to be resurfaced, (or whatever the term is), so that it will mate with the block better?
Only get the head 'resurfaced' if it has obvious damage but good idea to get an engineering shop to test if it is true/flat.

Will the normal DE valve cover fit on the VVL head? (I want this to be a true sleeper... :) )
No, the DE valve cover will not fit the VVL head... Get the VVL head and remove the NEO VVL bit, a coat of paint and it will look almost stock!

I'd like to keep my AC as well. Are there VE headers that allow this?

I hope it will fit. What is the difference between my current TB and a VVL TB? would mine still bolt up to a VVL intake manifold?

Would the sensors that I have now be able to work with a JWT reprogrammed B14 ECU? Would the program need to be a specific VVL program or would a standard SR20 program work?

Would it make a significant difference to try and get it ported and polished before I put it on? I have no idea what the cost will be....
Porting and polishing is a big ($$) job and only benefits the top end of the powerband, which you wont even be using.

What kind of power could I expect to see with this kind of setup? 165 WHP?

Tons of questions here. If I could get them all/most answered, this I believe would be a killer resource for people interested in this kind of a swap.
Thanks in advance for your help.

It will be possible to use your existing distributor.

Buy the Gen VI Hotshot and know that the car will run much better and its worth spending the extra $$ now.

Not sure on the CAI setup...

It is possible to use the factory ECU but require something to activate NEO VVL. Try and get a complete head with intake manifold and throttle body, makes the swap a LOT easier. Sensors can swapped over as required... Engine Coolant Temp sensor, etc. Of course, the car will run a LOT better if you can get a custom program to suit your engine setup.

The head is a pretty easy fitment, just take your time and do lots of measurements. Also fit a thin metal headgasket to increase the DE's compression ratio a little.

Your oil pump will run the VVL assembly with the factory oil pressure.

It is possible to fit the head with the engine in the engine bay, can get a little fiddly but def possible. Be careful with the timing chain and get it on TDC!

If you want the factory ECU to run this setup, keep the SR16VE camshafts or better yet, some SR20VE cams.

Only get the head 'resurfaced' if it has obvious damage but good idea to get an engineering shop to test if it is true/flat.

No, the DE valve cover will not fit the VVL head... Get the VVL head and remove the NEO VVL bit, a coat of paint and it will look almost stock!

I am not sure if the Hotshots allow the A/C to be kept?

Hope that answers a few questions

Wow. Thanks for all the answers!

One of the main reasons I don't want the HotShot is because of the noise. I'm going for sleeper, and I want it to seem like I've got a stock exhaust setup. I've had a HotShot on my GA16 a few years ago and it was kinda loud, even with an 18" resonator and a decent muffler. I imagine it will be similar if not louder on this car. The other main reason obviously is cost. If the hotshot is the only choice, I might as well get it now, I guess and enjoy it before I get the head. I'd prefer to go with something not quite so loud though if possible.

As for the intake, I've seen some picks that make it look like the engine is a high-port motor, like mine. I hope it will fit. What is the difference between my current TB and a VVL TB? would mine still bolt up to a VVL intake manifold?

I've read you can use MSD switches, or something like that to activate the different VVL switch points. I'm still researching this though. I'm glad the stock ECU will work. I guess what I'm trying to do is just get the head on there, and then after time spend more money and get the other mods.

When you say a custom program will make it run better, do you mean more power, or a better idle, etc? I don't want to do this if my ECU will mess up the engine over time.

Unfortunately, (as you probably already know), there aren't any options that I'm aware of for getting a custom program for my ECU. The best option is to get a B14 SR20 ECU and have JWT or somebody reprogram it. I'm not sure how well that setup will work with my sensors, or if it will pass emissions here though. I guess I should move to Florida... :)

Would it make a significant difference to try and get it ported and polished before I put it on? I have no idea what the cost will be....

I forgot to ask! Will the timing chain fit the cam gears on the VVL head, or will I need to get different gears. I've read something about this not working and having to get a different chain, or something.

One last thing... what kind of power could I expect to see with this kind of setup? 165 WHP?

Thanks in advance for your help.

As for the intake, I've seen some picks that make it look like the engine is a high-port motor, like mine

Your engine is a low port. So is the VE. If you use your stock ECU you are not going to get the full advantage of the VVL motor since your computer won't let you rev over 6800RPM. It may only be incrimentally faster than your current engine.

Porting and polishing is a big ($$) job and only benefits the top end of the powerband, which you wont even be using.

using an e-manage would allow you to tune it and raise the rev limiter, but im not sure if it will work on the b15's

if you want a stockish header, maybe you could find an 20v header and somehow use your stock heatshields on it ;)

if all you're shooting for is 165whp, just do intake, header, exhaust, pullies, and cams.


i think it would be a waste of time and money doing what you want to do without raising the rev limiter. also, you stated you dont want the noise, but ve's love big exhausts. so, i have no clue, but with the ve head you might actually hurt the performance with a restrictive exhaust and not being able to rev the motor.

if all you're shooting for is 165whp, just do intake, header, exhaust, pullies, and cams.


i think it would be a waste of time and money doing what you want to do without raising the rev limiter. also, you stated you dont want the noise, but ve's love big exhausts. so, i have no clue, but with the ve head you might actually hurt the performance with a restrictive exhaust and not being able to rev the motor.

I've been thinking about this. I'm thinking of buying the JWT ECU first, and then getting the head and header. I'm wondering if a stock VE header or something would work and where I would get one. I'm afraid if I get the header and the ECU first that I will stop with that and never get the head. I really want the head.... :)

I'm beginning to relent on the rev limiter, but I really don't want the noise from the header.

I would be fine with a header if I could find some sneaky way of making the whole system reasonably quiet. Maybe with some extra resonators or something in the system... I don't know.

I should reclarify my opinion. 165 whp is my minimum expectation. I will be satisfied with anything higher than 165 whp. :)

I have an IMPUL 4-2-1 stainess header, 2.5" cat, 18" resonator, 2.25" stainless mandrel bent pipe and straight through muffler (that hardly muffles(lol) and it is a very quiet set-up. I have heard a similar set-up with Fujitsubo header and it too was pretty quiet. You willl get your hp+ no worrries if you use a JWT ecu and rev to 7500rpm- a safe redline.