I finished my turbo install and wired a 95 g20 prog'ed be JWT into my 2000 g20, when I started the car nothing happened, but a click, found out that that is due to the distributor wiring. (I eventually solved the problem.) BUT at idle it revs from about 2k-3k rpm when cold as it warms up it begins to rev from1900 - 2100 constantly, then once fully warmed up it goes from 1200 to 2000rpm. I have spoken with Ben form jwt and theyre not quite sure what is wrong, also spoke with JGY and theyre not sure either. the car is leak free and i'm not sure what else to look for.
problem 2: at wot the car feels like it is studdering it begins to accelerate and then holds back, but if only at like 1/4 or 1/3 it acclerates fine till about 4700 then starts studdering real hard. Its not an issue with the maf, the maf is fine. Any help would be appreciated.

double check your maf wiring, and double check for leaks.. did you do a pressure test? also check injectors as they might be leaking

btw how does the greddy evo sound?

well right now with the revving problem it sounds like shit lol, but normally nice and throaty not ricey. no I have not done a pressure test. Several people said that the studdering problem was possibly due to ignition, like a bad ditributor and or plug wires, replaced tham and still the problem. Could running too rich be the source of that problem? (like drowning the engine)

Please pressure test the setup. Before you do anything else just do it. If it turns out to be a vacuum leak you just wasted $ on those other parts...

Sometimes, when you put in a new ECU, it takes a while for it to figure out what the heck is going on. Twice when I've put in a new JWT ecu, the revs would bounce from 1k-2k rpms at idle. I floored it a few times taking it to redline and the car idled fine afterwards both times.

I'm guessing that it's adjusting to the TPS. Follow the FSM procedure for adjusting/reseting it.

Well I've been driving the car for 3 months now and the problem still hasn't worked itself out yet. The weird thing is I even tried disconnecting my tps and the car still ran! no difference at all.

I'm going to sound like a broken record, but please pressure test your system. It's really one of the first things you need to do after boostng your car.

C

ok will do.

I had a fairly similar issue when running emanage. I moved to JWT ecu but the stuttering was still there at WOT. It did get tremondously better.

After switching to JWT ecu, to fix the remaining stuttering, I changed the following:

- Distributor wires from Advance Auto (simply stock cables for my 96 knowing it is a rr motor)
- ngk spark plugs (gapped at 0.30)
- Distributor rotor.
- Set the timing to 15 degrees (don't forget, the motor has to be in "timing mode" else it will fluctuate).

Also, don't forget the suggestions from turbo pro's above :)

what maf are you using? a re you using the rr maf or a maf froma b14/p10? they are diferent you know

Looks like your setup is very very similar to mine except for the MAF. I am not an exhaust expert, is your exhaust about 2.5" to 3"? (I noticed your downpipe is a good size but did not know about the rest evo system).

Initially I ran mine under a greddy sp system (which is way smaller than recommended size for my setup but then I switched to a 3" magnaflow custom bent). I was able to boost successfully till 9psi. Higher the speed, lower the pressure due to the exhaust choking on itself. With magnaflow, I am consistenly boosting higher than 12psi.

Looks like your setup is very very similar to mine except for the MAF. I am not an exhaust expert, is your exhaust about 2.5" to 3"? (I noticed your downpipe is a good size but did know about the rest).

Initially I ran mine under a greddy sp system (which is way smaller than recommended size for my setup but then I switched to a 3" magnaflow custom bent). I was able to boost successfully till 9psi. Higher the speed, lower the pressure due to the exhaust choking on itself. With magnaflow, I am consistenly boosting higher than 12psi.
what maf ar you using?

I am using Z32.