I bought the car late last fall, newly installed turbo kit, pieced together.
It seemed to have a lot of lag, not reaching full boost until around 5k RPM.
Setup: DE, S3 cams, T3(60 trim, .63 stage 1 wheel), GTI-R manifold, 50 lb. MSD, Z32 MAF, JWT ECU, 2.5" downpipe to 3" side exit.

I looked it over the other night, and found this (pre-wastegate flange):
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/547/medium/94TurboPreWastegateLeak1_P3290006.jpg
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/547/94TurboPreWastegateLeak2Zoom_P3290007.JPG

After tightening the bolts up:
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/547/medium/94TurboPreWastegateLeakFixed_P3290010.jpg

Not sure if it rattled loose, or if it wasn't tight to begin with.
Hope that was the problem!

Did you check to see it the gasket was still good? More times than not the exhaust will burn the gasket up if it comes in contact with it.

Damn dude those are some nice quality pics... what camera do you have?

put a nut on both those bolts an change out the gasket.

Did you check to see it the gasket was still good? More times than not the exhaust will burn the gasket up if it comes in contact with it.

No, didn't check it. Took me about an hour to tighten that one bolt.
Only one side was loose. I had to loosed the alternator & push it down out of the way.
Even then I could barely get an open end wrench on it for like 1/8 of a turn.
I'm hoping the gasket is still O.K, because it will not be fun pulling it all off.

Damn dude those are some nice quality pics... what camera do you have?
Olympus C3030Z - work camera. 3.3MP, 3optical, 2.5 digital zoom.
It has a nice macro mode for close-up shots.
It was like $1100 with accessories when I bought it for work, years back.
Now you can buy a much better camera for $300, LOL.

put a nut on both those bolts an change out the gasket.

I plan to put a nut on the back side - didn' t have one on hand last night.
I really hope the gasket is still O.K. - if not, I'll just goop a bunch of high temp copper sealant all over it - J/K :rofl:

if you do get a new gasket, get one with a metal ring on the inside...like $12 off ebay

if you do get a new gasket, get one with a metal ring on the inside...like $12 off ebay

exactly, if the gasket is bad, you should be able to hear it or feel it. So that an easy detect. When I get a free day, I will roll up to Madison. We can work on some things. ;) :D

I think it had a metal ring on it when I installed it

exactly, if the gasket is bad, you should be able to hear it or feel it. So that an easy detect. When I get a free day, I will roll up to Madison. We can work on some things. ;) :D
That would be sweet - team tool to the rescue. :)
I have a gasket on order for the intake, need to get the bung welded on for the wideband, hook up gauges, and a bunch of other little things.


I think it had a metal ring on it when I installed it
That's good.
How did you get the wastegate in there? Not much clearance at all.
The flange from the wastegate to the dumptube is loose also.
The dumptube sits against the bottom of the radiator, or just below - might have to bend the pipe.

I have the same problem on my S13 convertible. It sucks. From what I can tell, the problem lies in my wastegate flange not being 90* to the other wastegate flange (TiAL).

The only solution I can see is pulling everything off and installing the new gasket in there, at least in my case. Maybe grind the wastegate flange so it is closer to being 90* to the other one. If you get what I mean.

On 240s, it's a knuckle-buster of gigantic proportions. My forearms took a week to heal up after I tackled it the first time.

I worked on the car this weekend, went overkill & put a washer, lockwasher & nut on the back side of the bolt.
It was much easier from under the car. Last time I was trying from the topside - DOH!

Had to jump start it, Hawker was down to 4.8 volts (last started in Jan06).
After 20 minutes of idling & a 15 minute drive, it was back up to 11.6 volts.

Took it for a short test drive - much better now, 9-10 psi (MBC not installed yet, wastegate spring must be
9.5 or so) around 3500 RPM.
The gasket still looked O.K. (it was the one with the metal ring).

Peak injector duty cycle 87% (MSD 50lb.).
Peak MAF 4.16 volts (Z32).
:)


***EDIT***
I did some searching, MAF/duty cycle vs hp.

GP's setup in OCT04:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=93770
T28, 370 inj @ 4 bar, bored MAF, S3 cams,
10psi = 263hp/243 tq., 91% duty cycle, 5.01v MAF
11psi = 282hp, 231 tq

myprojectB13 in NOV03:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=61704
SR20DE, T28, 50lb MSDs, JWT ECU @ 3bar, Spearco Air/Water, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with 3" Catco Cat, 15* timing, 94 Octane Sunoco. Cobra MAF.
247hp,224 tq @ 10psi - MAF peak 4.2 v, injector duty cycle 76% (from page 2 of post)

myprojectB13's is a similar setup to mine EXCEPT:
I have S3 cams, Z32 MAF, air/air FMIC, 2.5" DP to 3" side exit, T3(.60 A/R /.63 stage 1 wheel), GTIR manifold.


I'm hitting 87% duty cycle, 4.16v MAF - any guesses to how much hp I'm making?
250-260?
Gotta get some dyno time...

Time to collect on the free dyno time, cheapskate. :)
The key word for you is "TIME" you workaholic. I'm glad the car went to capable hands.

Time to collect on the free dyno time, cheapskate. :)
The key word for you is "TIME" you workaholic. I'm glad the car went to capable hands.

I don't think the free dyno time is good anymore - I think the former owner sold it, but is still a partner.