Hey guys, i have compiled a list of things that i either need, or think i need for a SR20DET swap tell me if i am missing anything or if i dont need something that is on the list. Thanks

a (??) Signifies me wondering if i NEED.. it or not.

(optional) Mods:
S3 Cam
(ACT Stage 2 or JWT PP w/ Stock disk?) Clutch
UR Flywheel
UR Pulleys
Front Mount Relo Kit or FMIC
ES Tq Inserts
Intake system

NEEDS:

Battery Relo Kit
3" Downpipe
3" Cat-Back
Fuel Pump 300zxtt (??)
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Main Bearing
4 qts Oi
Oil Filterl (Same as DE?)
Tranny
Wiring Harness
Re-Progreammed JWT ECU
NGK PLugs (NGK-R?)
Plug Wires
BOV (??)
Wastegate (??)

Pumps:
Power Steering Pump
Water Pump
Altenator
Belts

Gaskgets (??)
VC Gasket
Oil Pan Gasket

Electronics
Turbo Timer
Electronic Boost Controller
Rich/Lean Guage
Oil Pressure Guage
Voltage Guage (??)


Let me know what im missing, or what i dont need :D

I believe you don't necessarily NEED the battery relocation kit, but would'nt be a bad idea to get it. Also you don't NEED an aftermarket BOV as the stock by-pass valve works just fine, all you would need is the line to connect it back to the intake. Fuel pump you wouldn't NEED right away if you're running a stock BB, because there is a guy here running low12's on a stock fuel pump. That's just about the things you can wait on and not need the day of installation, hope it helps.

Depending on your power goals you may or may not need some stuff on your list. here are some comments

(NEEDS:

Battery Relo Kit
3" Downpipe
3" Cat-Back
Fuel Pump 300zxtt (??) IF YOU WANT MORE THAT 220 WHP
Fuel Pressure Regulator IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE THE JWT 4 BAR POGRAM
Main Bearing
4 qts Oi
Oil Filterl (Same as DE?)
Tranny
Wiring Harness SAME AS DE
Re-Progreammed JWT ECU
NGK PLugs (NGK-R?) STOCK NGK PLATINUM COLD
Plug Wires THE STOCK ONES ARE THE BEST
BOV (??) DET HAS ONE
Wastegate (??) DET USES AN INTERNAL WASTEGATE

Pumps:
Power Steering Pump SAME AS DE
Water Pump REPLACE IT
Altenator SAME AS DE
Belts REPLACE THEM

Gaskgets (??)
VC Gasket REPLACE IT IF YOU TAKE OFF VC
Oil Pan Gasket NO GASKET,GRAY IMPORT GASKET MAKER 999

Electronics
Turbo Timer
Electronic Boost Controller
Rich/Lean Guage
Oil Pressure Guage
Voltage Guage (??) I WOULD BETTER GET AN EGT GAUGE

(optional) Mods:
S3 Cam (not needed)
(ACT Stage 2 or JWT PP w/ Stock disk?) Clutch (definitely needed)
UR Flywheel (not needed)
UR Pulleys (not needed)
Front Mount Relo Kit or FMIC (needed)
ES Tq Inserts (needed)
Intake system (needed)

NEEDS:

Battery Relo Kit (not needed)
3" Downpipe (not needed, you will run into fitment problems and fan clearance issues)
3" Cat-Back (at least 2.5" is recommended)
Fuel Pump 300zxtt (??) (Walboro works just as good, fuel pump on a classic is definitely needed)
Fuel Pressure Regulator (not needed, you aren't running a 4 bar program)
Main Bearing (not needed)
4 qts Oi (this is obvious)
Oil Filterl (Same as DE?) (obvious)
Tranny (not needed)
Wiring Harness (are you putting turbo parts on or swapping?)
Re-Progreammed JWT ECU (definitely need)
NGK PLugs (NGK-R?) ( you can run regapped stockers)
Plug Wires (use stock)
BOV (??) (not necessary)
Wastegate (??) (not necessary, it is internal)

Pumps:
Power Steering Pump (not necessary)
Water Pump (should replace if you are going DET motor)
Altenator (nope)
Belts (nope)

Gaskgets (??) (nope)
VC Gasket (nope)
Oil Pan Gasket (nope)

Electronics
Turbo Timer (nope)
Electronic Boost Controller (just get a manual)
Rich/Lean Guage (useless)
Oil Pressure Guage (yes)
Voltage Guage (??) (get a EGT)

depending on your planned HP output i would get the tranny cryoed if you are planning on running alot of HP (300+)

also, for the BB T25, i would get a 2.5" downpipe, as the 3" is just too big and you may run into ground clearance problems. the 2.5" downpipe is plenty big (your cat is only 2.5" anyway, as is the turbine outlet elbow) and as a bonus will be quieter.

You might need main bearings. My rod bearings were ok but my main bearings were trashed. YOU WILL NEED TO CHECK BOTH!!! It will save you trouble in the long run if you do it right the first time. While the motor is out you might want to replace them all just to be sure. You also want to check the condition of the crank jounals and cam surfaces. There should be NO scratches or gouges. Good luck.

thanks guys, just curious about a few things though. Ive never priced the JWT ecu and need to know how much it will be to get it reprogrammed. Also i am swapping the hole engine so do i need a compltly differnt wiring harness? ifso where do i get it from?

Originally posted by 92SE-R
(Rich/Lean Guage (useless)


How can you say it's useless?? You know what running lean does. It's playing it safe.

Definetly add a Boost guage to the picture.

Good list so far...seeing as I just went through this not too long ago, I'll add some input.

Unless your A/F gauge has a wideband sensor, it's useless unless you want to know if your engine is in closed loop or not, and that's not a big thing to worry about. A boost gauge is far more useful as it could indicate if you have any vacuum leaks. I have boost, oil pressure, and will be adding water temp. EGT is nice if you plan to be boosting to high heaven.

You can reuse your old wiring harness. You'll have a few plugs that you won't use since you'll no longer have EGR, AIV (if you car had it in the first place) and the stock oil pressure sender if you put in a electronic oil pressure gauge.

You should really upgrade your clutch. Get at least a JWT PP or equivalent like a ACT HD PP. If you're going to be going to a bigger turbo later, get a beefier clutch so you won't have to drop your tranny again.

You need new axle seals. Get them from the dealership as I got screwed by NAPA giving me the wrong ones and we had to scrounge to find some new ones during my swap. Also, get new front and rear main seals.

Get some fresh coolant and distilled water. Maybe you want to add Water Wetter to the mix.

Swapping out bearings is your call. Some people swap them and some don't. YMMV. I didn't, but I had a BB DET from a manual (believe me, it makes a difference - just ask auto G20 owners with sludged SR20DEs) and I run Castrol Syntec 10W-30. Some believe Mobil1 is a little too thin for DETs.

If you already have a JWT ECU, it will be $100 for the reprogram for a BB DET setup. If you don't, you'll need to cough up $600.

Finally, get an FSM! This thing will be your bible during your swap. If you don't have one, don't even think about doing your swap yet.

I pretty much agree with everyone else's comments.

Good luck!

This is a great topic!!!!

Does anyone have any recomendations on where to get this stuff?? I know I would get all the Nissan Parts from courtesy, but what about the other stuff? also what about:

guage pods (either pillar or center console)?

thanks
Neeraj

I'm taking a dual gauge pod for the A-Pillar. It's from a civic, I just got to heat it a bit to make it fit on my own pillar.

Lo-tek Engineering has made replacement A-pillar pieces w/ 2 gauge pods for the classic. I think they made the same thing for B14s, but with 3 gauge pods. Someone on these forums has it I think. Try giving them a call.

yep, Lo-Tek engineering makes A-pillar pods for our cars. I have the grey triple gauge pod for my B14, costs $50. Go to Gaugepods.com

the 300zx pillars fit the nx if i remember correctly....dont take my word for it then come kill me if it doesnt fit *** :)

does anyone know where to get some of the other things on this list? I will get the guage pods from the place listed above, but what about some of the other stuff?

thanks
Neeraj

other stuff like what? a lot of the things can be found at courtesynissan.com, Then for the electronics hunt around for best prices..nopionline, summit racing etc. name a few parts that you are looking for i have pretty much fouind everything i need.

I guess I would be looking for guages, but I can order them from Summit? All the nissan parts would be from Courtesy, and the guage pod from that other place, so I guess that's it right? Oh the Pressure plate and ECU from JWT! but other than that, there's nothing really else to get, right?

neeraj

Instead of Courtesy, you guys can always try Mossyperformance.com. They are a big supporter of SERCA too.
Speak to Greg Vogel. He is the parts manager for Oceanside Nissan in California. He is also a SE-R owner.

Terrin
92 SE-R

Originally posted by AntonioG
Good list so far...seeing as I just went through this not too long ago, I'll add some input.

Unless your A/F gauge has a wideband sensor, it's useless unless you want to know if your engine is in closed loop or not, and that's not a big thing to worry about. A boost gauge is far more useful as it could indicate if you have any vacuum leaks. I have boost, oil pressure, and will be adding water temp. EGT is nice if you plan to be boosting to high heaven.

You can reuse your old wiring harness. You'll have a few plugs that you won't use since you'll no longer have EGR, AIV (if you car had it in the first place) and the stock oil pressure sender if you put in a electronic oil pressure gauge.

You should really upgrade your clutch. Get at least a JWT PP or equivalent like a ACT HD PP. If you're going to be going to a bigger turbo later, get a beefier clutch so you won't have to drop your tranny again.

You need new axle seals. Get them from the dealership as I got screwed by NAPA giving me the wrong ones and we had to scrounge to find some new ones during my swap. Also, get new front and rear main seals.

Get some fresh coolant and distilled water. Maybe you want to add Water Wetter to the mix.

Swapping out bearings is your call. Some people swap them and some don't. YMMV. I didn't, but I had a BB DET from a manual (believe me, it makes a difference - just ask auto G20 owners with sludged SR20DEs) and I run Castrol Syntec 10W-30. Some believe Mobil1 is a little too thin for DETs.

If you already have a JWT ECU, it will be $100 for the reprogram for a BB DET setup. If you don't, you'll need to cough up $600.

Finally, get an FSM! This thing will be your bible during your swap. If you don't have one, don't even think about doing your swap yet.

I pretty much agree with everyone else's comments.

Good luck!


Do I need new axles for the swap? This is wrong, right?