Well, I got the axle out and I removed "the 3 screws" so it pulled out of the trans. I pulled without doing this and it wasn't coming out and some said to undo the 3 screws. I bought a new axle shaft so looks like I would have had to do this anyway. I'm assuming (which is sometimes dangerious:D ) that I have to seperate the axle where I have marked. Correct? What do I do, just wedge a screwdriver in there? Looks like it has started to seperate when I was trying to pull it out. thanks

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/585/p40501454vo.th.jpg (http://img90.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p40501454vo.jpg)

Well, I got the axle out and I removed "the 3 screws" so it pulled out of the trans. I pulled without doing this and it wasn't coming out and some said to undo the 3 screws. I bought a new axle shaft so looks like I would have had to do this anyway. I'm assuming (which is sometimes dangerious:D ) that I have to seperate the axle where I have marked. Correct? What do I do, just wedge a screwdriver in there? Looks like it has started to seperate when I was trying to pull it out. thanks

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/585/p40501454vo.th.jpg (http://img90.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p40501454vo.jpg)

nvm sorry

you should not have to because the pass. side axle should be the 1 whole assembely not 2 parts

OK, I now see this. But right now, I have a gap where I have drawn the arrow in the picture. Did I do this when I first tried to pull the axle out before I undid the 3 screws or is the gap "normal?" I haven't tried yet to close the gap by hammering it. Don't want to FIU any more than it is now. Thanks -whew, I'm making progress, I think:D

I'll hafta go look at mine, but if you're getting a new axle, not to worry as all that will be there on the new one. Unlikely you did it unless you were pulling on it with your dad's D9

I'll hafta go look at mine, but if you're getting a new axle, not to worry as all that will be there on the new one. Unlikely you did it unless you were pulling on it with your dad's D9


Hi Jerry,

I'm cleaning up the CV joints, relubing, putting new boots on and slappin' them back. Only doing this cause 1 boot split and I caught it early. Didn't think it smart to replace 70K mile axles just because of a split boot.
Thanks, Fred

Fred-
You are absolutely right. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'll be happy to climb under there tonite and look lest somebody else has a better memory (which ain't hard) to see if that gap's there. I need to poke around under there about something else anyway. When it's time, a lot of people swear by Raxles, btw. BE VERY CAREFUL slipping the shaft back thru the seal! It is SUCH a drag to hafta do it all over again, and the seals are not at all forgiving when you replace them (easy to dink them when starting them into the hole; MUST be flush with the case).
Jer

Fred-
You are absolutely right. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'll be happy to climb under there tonite and look lest somebody else has a better memory (which ain't hard) to see if that gap's there. I need to poke around under there about something else anyway. When it's time, a lot of people swear by Raxles, btw. BE VERY CAREFUL slipping the shaft back thru the seal! It is SUCH a drag to hafta do it all over again, and the seals are not at all forgiving when you replace them (easy to dink them when starting them into the hole; MUST be flush with the case).
Jer


10-4, Thanks Jerry and make sure you use jackstands:D Fred

Jackstands? Hell, you mean those little plastic trashcans I've been using all this time ain't enough to hold up these little things?? :eek2:
It'll be about 5:30 or 6ish by the time I get under there, Fred; I'll look & drop you a note then.
Snow off the ground yet up yonder?:tongue:

I can't tell from the pic very well, but it *appears* that you separated the axle from the carrier bearing bracket. If the bracket is still on the car, you shouldn't need to remove that little piece. Many people have trouble with removing the actual bracket (from the axle) that bolts to the block from rust, etc.

Did I read correctly that you did buy a new axle? If so comapre the two of them; if I mis-read you can leave that on there while just redoing your boots.

Josh

I can't tell from the pic very well, but it *appears* that you separated the axle from the carrier bearing bracket. If the bracket is still on the car, you shouldn't need to remove that little piece. Many people have trouble with removing the actual bracket (from the axle) that bolts to the block from rust, etc.

Did I read correctly that you did buy a new axle? If so comapre the two of them; if I mis-read you can leave that on there while just redoing your boots.

Josh


Hi Josh,
Here is an edited picture - you can now see it a little better - sorry, the first was kinda dark

The bracket is still on the car. All I did was take the 3 bolts out and pulled. The axle came right out of the transaxle (as did as bunch of my Redline lube:eek2: )

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/1023/p4050145a9la.th.jpg (http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p4050145a9la.jpg)

Silly - you were supposed to drain the gearbox first - - -
Hm. If that separated, what holds it together? having not thought about it before, what adjusts for extension when the suspension travels? is it there? Don't see how it's the spline out at the hub. I've always taken the whole assembly out, including the bracket, so I've no experience with this junction apart.

I'm showing just shy of 1/4" space there, across the shim between the two pieces of the housing. I don't think you moved it a bit. I also think you found an easier way to take the durned things apart; I was taught to remove the bracket too, seems unnecessary. Slap it back together.

I still don't think you need to pull that off (not 100% positive though).

As far as what holds it together, you will be surprised to know that just the boot holds everything together, and it provides the ability to "telescope". That's why you have to measure the amount of extention in the boot to make sure it is on far enough.

I still think you were lucky getting the axle separated from the bracket. You low-mileage guys are lucky. :)

So you are just rebuilding the boots now, correct? There should be a very small gap - like Jerry said. I think everything is still one piece (not postive on that).

I think you are sitting pretty, so you can just get it put back together.

Josh

Thanks Jerry and Josh,

Did someone say sitting pretty. Apparently you didn't see my garage with tools all over the place:rofl: Ok, the question of the gap is settled now apparently the issue with the passenger side CV joint means disassembly of that joint. I thought I read somewhere that one of the joints is not disassemblyable. The FSM does not explain the procedure. Oh well, I'll figure it out somehow. Will advise the (lack of) progress on Monday.

Thanks, Fred

Dunno, as I haven't done mine (I got the car just after new raxles were put on); only had 'em out to do the VE swap. I do remember one of my fellow nutcases down here using a boot cover sort of thing he got at autozone or one of other places (sorry, don't remember); while I think he's since done another set of axles (drives the car for a living at it's crossed 250k), it worked JUST fine for MANY miles. It just clamped over the cracked original boot, no replacing necessary. Go down to your friendly local neighborhood parts store and see if they have such.

That's too easy for me:rofl: I didn't spend any weekend time on it but the PS is off and I gunked the grease off. I then air blew it dry, WD'd 40 it to displace water and air blew that off. I see the inner side joint has a big circleclip holding it in. Looks like it could be a beech to remove. It doesn't have holes it in for a circleclip plier so it demands further investigation. Will update, thanks