http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a170/afdj006/7683526_ra.jpg
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7683526&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03079&id=1138084656549
Anyone ever have experience with these???? Maybe heard them in a car or something?? I am gonna disconnect these hidious blue lights if I get them.
Its only $150 and you get 2 subs inside a bandpass box.
I 'm looking for a cheap clear bass. No big boom.
This sounds like a great deal.
Any imput is greatly appreaited.

I have not had experience with that brand of sub but the best box i`ve ever had was a bandpass box. I found the bandpass box created more bass with less power which is always a good thing. Most subs are made of the same materials these days, so even the cheap ones will create good sounding bass. Looking at the specs of the box in question, it concerns me that it has a built in crossover. If you use the crossover function on your amp (and/or head unit if applicable) as well as the built in one, it would clip the signal too much and damage the subs. Also, i can see that the subs share one enclosure which is different to what i know. My old bandpass was actually two boxes joined together so that the subs had an enclosure and port each, and they only shared the air space at the front, where the flexiglass panel is. However, because the air space at the front is sealed, the subs were fighting each other. I found running one sub with the + and - swapped dealt with that problem but i`m not sure what effect it would have on other designs. Hope this helps in making a decision ;)

Thanx for the imput green_200sx
Anyone else have any replys?? They used to carry the old Dual setup almost exactly like this, but this is the new model.
Also for an extra $25 I can get a 4 year warrenty on this setup.

The Dual subs are a decent setup for the price. I work at Best Buy in the carfi department and sell these often. As long as you get a good amp for it it will sound clean. Its nowhere near any Alpine Type-R or Rockford P3's, but definitely compliment the music with some bass.

PS. The blue lights are disable automatically, it requires running a wire to the 12v power source to get it to run. These subs sound nice with the Alpine mono amp at 2 ohms.

Your money is better spent elsewhere. Bandpass boxes are good for tuning between a certain range of frequencies, and they provide high SPL numbers, but your sound quality will go to $hit. Dual is crap, and I would never waste a dime on them. Sony is also crap, don't waste a dime on them either. Seriously, with car audio, you really do get what you pay for. Retail store stuff is ok, but I personally would stick with companies such as Resonant Engineering, Elemental Designs, Image Dynamics, etc etc. RE (Resonant Engineering) is good for the price. As far as retail, I personally like Infinity, Kicker, JL (a lil pricey) and Alpine. Anything else is below par, IMO. I wouldn't buy a Kenwood sub. The one I had sucked, and I'm glad it was only given to me when I blew it lol. Anything JL will be geared more towards SQ than SPL, and in most cases, they're over-priced. Infinity is a good mix of the two. Alpines usually do well in ported enclosures, depending on the sub, and Kicker is pure SPL and usually do 10x better in a ported enclosure than in a sealed. I personally have an Infinity Reference 12" in a 1.751 ft^3 net internal volume ported enclosure tuned to 36Hz, and it slams pretty good for a single 12. I'm running it off a Pioneer GM5000T (380w RMS x 1 @ 4-ohms). The only thing about that amp is it's a bridged 2-channel class AB, and for a subwoofer, you really want a class D mono subwoofer amp. The whole setup cost me about $250, everything brand new, and I built/tuned the box and installed the system myself. If you decide to build a box yourself, download WinISD Pro (http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro) (a free box building program) and play around with a few different scenarios. Remember when building a dual sub enclosure, ALWAYS build seperate chambers for the subs. If you don't, then more than likely you'll get one sub fighting for airspace over another, and you won't like how the setup turns out.

Edit what him ^^ said i did a bandpass on mine sounded like shit....now i have a sealed box and boy it pounds.

Yeah my brother has a 2 12" dual box...for pretty much the same price. It hits but ot loud...if thats what you want go for it....but dual are really no names so you get what you pay for. You migh spend a lil more on one sup with a nice box and amp and hit just as hard for maybe less money and less weight in your car

i'm happy with the MTX package i got off ebay. i know...."wtf he got a package off ebay its gotta be shit!" its the same thing circuit city had for twice the price. its got 2 12" subs in a sealed box and a 250 watt amp. they're no type r's or kickers but they piss the neighbors off enough. plus i'm still on the stock h/u, they were better when i had them on an Alpine unit. ive actually had a little battle with a friend of mine with those duals and beat them by a little. the bandpass box does kill the whole concept of clean bass though.

Since everyone is saying that a bandpass box is SPL (had to look up what this means), I don't want to go that route at all. I listen to mostly rock so 100%-75% must be SQ (sound quality). So, I think the the dual 12" Dual bandpass box is out of the question.
Here is the thing: I ONLY WANT TO BUY STUFF FROM BEST BUY BECAUSE THEY INSTALL EVERYTHING AND WARRENTY EVERYTHING FOR 4 YEARS. I don't want to really spend over $500-600 total

I already bought a Rockford Fosgate P3001 amp from Best buy on clearence for $179 with a 4 year warrenty.>>> http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=2&series_id=6&family_id=19&item_id=91949&locale=en_US

Since Infinity and JL appently have the best SQ thats probably the route I want to go.
So is a sealed and vented box OK to go with one of these subs??>>> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7730164&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03081&id=1140392384272
or
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7730155&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03081&id=1140392384210
Would my amp be enough to handle these subs???

Someone please help me out I'm pretty stupid when it comes to subs, amp and boxes.
Here is a link for all Of Best Buys subs>> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?type=category&id=cat03081
and a link for all their boxes>> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?type=category&id=cat03082
Amps I am pretty clueless on.
Should I keep the amp or return it???

The Infinity Reference 12" is what I have in a custom ported enclosure that I built. Since you're looking more for SQ over SPL, then I would suggest you buy a sealed enclosure. A vented/ported enclosure you can't just buy. It has to be built especially for a specific subwoofer. To have a custom ported enclosure built to Infinity spec (or maybe a little further) would probably cost between $200-250 carpeted at an audio shop, depending on what kind of deal you could work out. I'd say spend $50 in materials and design/build one yourself, but that's a bit much for a novice. I'd buy the Infinity Reference 12" 4-ohm DVC and wire it in parallel to the amplifier. This will present a 2-ohm load on the amplifier's channel, thus producing 300w RMS. Infinity recommends a 1.25 ft^3 net internal volume enclosure. The sub displacement is about 0.11 ft^3, so you're looking at an enclosure with 1.36 ft^3 internal volume. This will give you the SQ of a sealed enclosure, a box QTC of 0.860, and a box cutoff frequency of about 42Hz (meaning any frequencies below that will not be reproduced well by the box). A QTC of 0.707 is ideal for a flat response, and higher than that reduces low frequency extension a bit and adds a little more SPL in higher frequencies. With this box configuration and 300w RMS input power, the cone shouldn't over-exert, so you should get long life from this setup. Good luck, man!

EDIT: Actually, after looking back at Infinity's box spec sheet, the 1.25 ft^3 enclosure includes the driver displacement, which would equal to about 1.14 ft^3 net internal volume and 1.25 ft^3 total internal volume. Personally, after looking at WinISD, I feel that 1.14 ft^3 is a bit peaky (I thought 1.25 ft^3 was a little peaky to begin with). Either way, there won't be much difference. The 1.25 ft^3 total internal volume box will give you a little higher SPL at higher frequencies, thereby reducing low frequency extension by a bit, when compared to the 1.36 ft^3 total internal volume enclosure.

So basically, since you'll be buying an enclosure at Best Buy, THIS (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7008542&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03082&id=1099392684268) enclosure should do nicely. It's a gross internal volume of 1.25 ft^3, which is exactly to Infinity's sealed enclosure specs for one Reference 12" subwoofer. The box says that it can be "slot vented" as well as sealed, but KEEP IT SEALED. Like I said above, you cannot just buy a generic box and have it ported. Ported enclosures are much larger than sealed enclosures, and they have to be tuned correctly. Using an enclosure that's improperly tuned to the subwoofer can yield less than desireable results, as well as, if the conditions are too far off, it can damage the subwoofer. AGAIN, DO NOT USE THE ABOVE BOX AS A PORTED/VENTED ENCLOSURE, ONLY SEALED. The only thing I don't like about it is that it's constructed of 5/8" MDF and I, as well as most box builders, use no less than 3/4" MDF. If this were a hard-slamming SPL box then I would say to find something else, but since this is just a basic SQ setup, I think you'll be fine with 5/8". I would just make sure that they don't mount your amplifier to this enclosure, as 5/8" MDF is a little thin and the vibration might hurt the amplifier. If it were 3/4" MDF or thicker, it wouldn't be much of a problem. I know you're thinking "Well, I'll have a warranty on everything, and they'll fix it if it breaks." While that may be true, trust me, once you get used to the bass you're not going to want to have to wait for the amp to be fixed or for them to troubleshoot your system. I bought my Pioneer amp from Circuity City, and when I thought the amp had burned out, I took it in for warranty work and it took me 2 weeks to get it diagnosed and back to me. Turns out it wasn't the amp, but my subwoofer wiring inside the enclosure had vibrated loose. That just goes to show you, before assuming anything CHECK ALL WIRING, FUSES, AND CONNECTIONS lol. Again, good luck with the system, man.

Thank you everyone for all the wonderful info. I think I've learned more about subs and enclosures in the past 12 hours then my whole life.
Keep it coming!!!!
So c00lkatz, what your saying is buy the enclosure above teamed up with this Infinity sub>> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7730155&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03081&id=1140392384210 will be a perfect match???
What about my amp??? Will it work with that sub or should I return that on and get a new one??? My amp >>> http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=2&series_id=6&family_id=19&item_id=91949&locale=en_US

Correct buy THIS (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7008542&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03082&id=1099392684268) sealed enclosure and the 12" Infinity Reference sub (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7730155&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03081&id=1140392384210).

Just remember to keep that enclosure sealed and do not vent/port it. There's no way that enclosure has enough volume, especially with that large slot vent, for that subwoofer. Just to give you an idea, with the sub in place you have 1.14 ft^3 net internal volume, and that doesn't even include the port, which since they don't give port dimmensions so I can't say for sure how much volume it takes up, will probably be less than a cubic foot net internal volume after subtracting port and sub displacement. Infinity recommends 2.0 ft^3 total with a 4x12.5" round port, or basically, a net internal volume of 1.8 ft^3. That sealed enclosure would be no where close. Do not let any of the "professionals" doing your install or sales people try to talk you into "venting" that enclosure. If they do, they don't know what the hell they're talking about, plain and simple. I just want to make sure you KEEP THAT ENCLOSURE SEALED. After the install, I would check the sub-to-amp wiring to make sure they wire the sub in parallel as well. There are pictures to show correct wiring below. EDITED AS PER BELOW ---> If they accidentally wire it in series presenting an 8-ohm load on that amp, it won't hurt anything, but it will seriously deplete output. Doubling input power gains you a theoretical 3dB in SPL, and if they wire it in series instead of parallel, you'll be getting LESS THAN 150w RMS to that sub instead of the full 300w RMS, and trust me, you'll want that full 300w RMS.

Your amp is perfect. It's rated to 150w RMS x 1 @ 4-ohms and 300w RMS x 1 @ 2-ohms. You'll want to wire the sub in parallel to the amplifier. This will provide a 2-ohm impedance on the amplifier, thus drawing 300w RMS from the channel. That sub is rated to 300w RMS and 1000w Max, meaning 300w RMS is its continuous power handling (what it can handle all the time, this is its thermal limit) and 1000w is what it can handle for very very short bursts. Always go by the RMS power rating, whether it be amps, speakers or subs, never the max rating. The max rating is mostly there for manufacturer advertisement and does not reflect the true power handling of the subwoofer. Most high end manufacturers actually rate their products in RMS power and not max power.

So just to clarify, a sub's impedance is what will determine how much power is created by the amp for a specific channel. A SVC (single voicecoil) subwoofer will only have one impedance, and these subs are usually rated at 4 or 8-ohms in car audio. A DVC (dual voicecoil, meaning two voicecoils) subwoofer can either be wired in parallel or series. Wiring in parallel will yield a smaller impedance (less impedance means less resistance meaning more power drawn) and wiring in series will yield more resistance. A 4-ohm DVC sub (two 4-ohm voicecoils) can be wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load or in series for an 8-ohm load. A 2-ohm DVC sub (two 2-ohm voicecoils) can be wired in parallel for a 1-ohm load or in series for a 4-ohm load. You do not want to draw too much power from the amplifier and overpower your sub, as well as, you do not want to wire your sub for too little impedance as most amps are only stable to a certain impedance (ever heard of an amp being 1-ohm stable, 2-ohm stable in stereo, 4-ohm stable in bridged mode, etc etc? This is what they mean, it's stable only down to a certain impedance. Going too far will burn up and overheat the amp). Since the Infinity is a 4-ohm DVC and your amplifier makes 300w RMS x 1 channel @ 2-ohms, you'll want to wire your sub in parallel to create a 2-ohm impedance on the channel, thus giving you 300w RMS, the sub's rated power. There's plenty more information than what I've given, and if you want to know more specifics or have specific questions, you can PM me. Here are a couple great sites for car audio:

http://www.bcae1.com
http://www.the12volt.com

Here are your wiring options:

PARALLEL
http://www.the12volt.com/images4/woofer_wiring/cropped/1_4ohm_dvc_2ohm.gif

SERIES
http://www.the12volt.com/images4/woofer_wiring/cropped/1_4ohm_dvc_8ohm.gif

Wow man thanx for all this very useful information. I'm sure this will come in handy for alot of other forum members. I will most likely be buying everything this weekend and getting it put in later next week. I'm gonna check their work and make sure they wire the sub in parallel. I'll let you know how everything worked out for me.
Also, I heard if your headlights dim when your sterio is blasting a capicitor (spelling?) will fix that problem right up. Is this true? Would the cheap Rockford Fosgate 1/2-Farad Capacitor (CPC05-03) for $105 be good enough or would I have to get the 1 Farad Capacitor (CPC10-03) for 168??
Thanx again for yours and everyones help.

Actually, I was typing too fast when I said wiring in series would give you 150w RMS for your particular situation lol. Wiring in series would give you an 8-ohm load which would give you LESS than 150w RMS, closer to 75-100w RMS, because your amp rated 150w RMS x 1 @ 4-ohms. 8-ohms is a higher resistance value meaning it will cause the amp to put out even less power. Just wanted to correct that. So yeah, definitely make sure your sub is wired in parallel! [Edited above post :-)]

A capacitor is a waste of money, a "bandaid fix." If your headlights dim it is because your vehicle's electronics are drawing too much current for your alternator to keep up. The only way to correctly cure this problem is to upgrade your vehicle's electrical/charging system. The first thing you should do is upgrade your "Big Three." This means, upgrading your vehicle's wiring to a larger gauge (or AWG - American Wire Gauge). The Big Three consists of your battery-to-chassis ground wire, your engine-to-chassis ground wire, and your battery-to-alternator positive wire. You want to use at least 4-AWG wire, but 2-AWG or 1/0-AWG is best. This is a cheap upgrade and should drastically improve your vehicle's electrical system. You will want to fuse your battery-to-alternator wire close to the battery. You could run the wire through your stock fusebox, but using an external fuse on the wire is best. Keep all of the wiring in its stock location. Current will take the path of least resistance anyway, and if your fuse blows or something of that nature, your alternator will still function due to the stock wiring being intact. So basically, measure from each location to determine what length of wire you will need. Go to your local audio shop and buy the wire, and go to your local hardware store (like Ace Hardware) and buy the end terminals (ring, spade, etc). Crimp and tape/shrinkwrap the terminals on and run your wires. Check everything with a multi-meter to make sure you chose optimal connection points. A bench vise comes in handy when trying to crimp large AWG wire.

HERE (http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152355) is an excellent how-to on upgrading The Big Three.

Next in line is to upgrade your battery. This should be pretty self-explanatory. An Optima battery is the usual upgrade. An Optima Yellow-Top is a deep cycle battery, meaning it handles being severely discharged and then recharged over and over again very well, BUT IT IS NOT MEANT TO BE A STARTING BATTERY. It will work as a starting battery, but it will not last as long. If you plan on leaving your system on with the car off for long lengths of time, then a yellow-top is a wise investment. If that doesn't apply to you, then an Optima Red-Top would be your best choice, which IS designed to be a starter battery.

After that, if you're still dimming, you need a higher amp alternator, which is self-explanatory. With most high amp alternators, you will need to upgrade your wiring anyway, so it's best to get the Big Three out of the way first.

Just remember that electricity/current follows a loop/path. If you're using a certain size power wire, you want to use the same size ground wire to complete the loop. You don't want to "choke" the current.

Honestly though, with your single amp setup and not running a whole bunch of "add-on" accessories, you shouldn't experience any dimming, especially since in most cases the dimming occurs while sitting at idle, but stops once you get going. If you do get dimming headlights, just follow the above steps, and you should be good to go. Just remember a capacitor is a band-aid fix and they usually cause more problems than they help solve.

I got everything installed on Wednesday night. I've got to say that the sub hits pretty nice. Ended up costing $600 for everything including taxes and installation. I also got a 4 year warrenty on the sub and amp from Best Buy.
Only thing to do now is get rid of some of those outside rattles.
Which way should the sub be facing (towards the trunk or towards the driver)????

YOU SHOLDA WENT WITH A KICKER SUB, ONE WOULDA DID IT. N E WAY, FACE THEM TOWARDS THE TRUNK FOR THEM TO HIT THE RIGHT WAY.

YOU SHOLDA WENT WITH A KICKER SUB, ONE WOULDA DID IT. N E WAY, FACE THEM TOWARDS THE TRUNK FOR THEM TO HIT THE RIGHT WAY.
Kicker is good for SPL, and that's just about it. They make TERRIBLE sound quality (SQ) subs. He stated that he wanted a SQ setup because he listens to mainly rock and such. Infinity is a good mix of the two. There are better subs out there, and the Infinity slams in a ported enclosure that's properly tuned, but he needed something he could get from a retail store, box included, that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg and would still give excellent SQ. Therefore, I think he made the best choice with the resources he had available to him at the time. :biggthump

haha i have 2 Kicker l7 8's and they make awsome bass and SQ, I have had people that have been doing car audio for years tell me it's the best setup they have heard in a while. I hit 136.4 db with the back seats in and a board holding up my 4 channel but that is done and out of the car it's gutted, so i could get more db, just need to take it to another show.

I got everything installed on Wednesday night. I've got to say that the sub hits pretty nice. Ended up costing $600 for everything including taxes and installation. I also got a 4 year warrenty on the sub and amp from Best Buy.
Only thing to do now is get rid of some of those outside rattles.
Which way should the sub be facing (towards the trunk or towards the driver)????

Dynomat will take car of all your noise.

I have this very box. It's pretty awesome. I have it set-up right in the space where my rear seat used to be, but they're in the trunk. Looks molded in, pretty sweet. IMO, get it, defiantly worth the money.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/2070000-2070999/2070107_39_full.jpg


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/2070000-2070999/2070107_40_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/2070000-2070999/2070107_43.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/2070000-2070999/2070107_38_full.jpg



Yeah, The blue-lights have an on/off switch in the back, so it's nice and easy.