new gtir mani and j-pipe purchased from nissan dealer.
gtir t-28,370cc injectors,nismo fpr,bored afm , walbro 255 , dsm bov , jwt ecu all purchased used from andreas miko (4-bar ecu program)
big johnny racecar fmic
3 inch downpipe and mandrel bent exhaust ( side exit)
jwt s4 cams ( new from jwt )
act street disc and extreme pressure plate ,new factory release bearing(new)
tein s - tech lowering springs on new factory struts
new factory front rotors and pads
new fuzion tires 195/50/15
new factory clutch cable
replaced rear main seal , front crank seal , resealed timing cover and oil pans when turbo installed
turbo setup been installed for 5000 miles,runs great.


But i drive it REALLY HARD all the time. and its time to start thinking about durability, i want my car to last without babying it every day. im going to order a nismo thermostat this week im thinking about adding an oil cooler or putting in a KOYO radiator, please give me some advice on what to do to make my 200 LAST AND LAST through all the abuse.......

I'm running almost the same exact setup.

BTW - I'm moving this to the Turbo section. It's better off there.

C

For the cooling side, besides the Koyo radiator... a 300zx radiator cap and a VE water pump pulley or UR pulley set.

Also make sure you have a water temp and oil pressure gauge, just some added security ;)

How can you expect a car to last and last when you beat on it all the time. I think the only solution would be to have a shit load of money set aside for breaking parts and replacing them. The only way to make a car last is to maintain it... oil change, spark plugs, etc etc. You might wanna change ur trans to a P11 or B15 and change some internals.

I'll second what McCoy said. Honestly, I'm surprised it hasn't overheated on the stock radiator without the 1.3 bar (300zx TT, Nismo) radiator cap. I'd go Koyo with slim fans and be done with it.

Also, Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof in the tranny. I'd upgrade the brakes also to at least AD22VF calipers (from the NX2000). Better would be either the 11" or 11.75" Fastbrakes setup, depending on what size wheels you have. Lastly, don't use 3rd gear while just driving around daily.

Follow these rules, change the oil often, allow it to cool down after driving hard, allow it to WARM UP before driving hard, change the coolant once a year or so, and it will last and last. I have 70K+ very hard miles on my turbo to prove it :)

How can you expect a car to last and last when you beat on it all the time. I think the only solution would be to have a sh*t load of money set aside for breaking parts and replacing them. The only way to make a car last is to maintain it... oil change, spark plugs, etc etc. You might wanna change ur trans to a P11 or B15 and change some internals.
I don't think it's a dumb post. I track my sentra... that could be called beating on it, could it not? I just spent last weekend on our local track with my T28 powered sentra, hitting upwards of 145mph on the front straight and going through 6 tanks of gas in a matter of 300 track miles. With proper cooling, keeping the boost down, and not driving like an idiot this setup will last for a long time.

Changing internals is stupid, a DE and DET block can handle 250hp all day without upgrading anything internal... save the money for wear items and tuneup parts.

"not driving like an idiot" and "driving really hard" is kinda contradictory no? If his motor isn't gonna go, his turbo is. I have my turbo set at 11psi and barely drive hard and rarely sees 11psi and it already has shaft play. And I do believe there is a thing called wear and tear. But to each his own beliefs...

OMG, what were you getting on the track Monty, 5 - 6 mpg? Looks like my convention budget just went up. :)

C

C, with the open bov it's much worse than before... I use to get 11mpg, now I'm getting about 6mpg :(. Must recirculate bov...

mr. 808, driving like an idiot was more in reference to stupid burn outs on the street, cranking the boost up with 91 pee water, and things of that nature.

next time u can clariy earlier :)

i dont drive like an idiot. but i do drive hard, and there is a big diffrence. im boosting 14 psi, and maintain the car religously. i use fully synthetic every 3500 and keep evey fluid topped off if not changed on a regular basis. i use 93 octane shell or mobil1. im not stupid, but this is my first turbo car. so any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated

and BTW letting it warm up before you drive hard and letting it cool down after you drive hard is common sense, if you dont know this. someone should take your turbo away from you! if not your car.....

At 14psi I think you're going to be past 100% on your injectors and MAF. Do you have any way to measure them?

On my t25 s4 4bar bored maf 3" exhaust I was at 91% injector and 5.01v on the maf, so I'm pretty sure a t28 @ 14psi is going to be dangerous.

C

i would upgrade 550cc and z32, keep the car cool, and well oiled and thats about it, keep in mind things do break for no reason and wear and tear is a factor. goodluck

when it was all finished up, used a wideband and made sure it wasent running lean. i dyno'd it and it was definitely on the rich side. so im not worried about the fuel i just know heat is an engines worst enemy, and friction. so thats why i was leaning twards cooling it down and keeping the oil at a good temp. but i was thinking about upgrading my MAF just not sure which one

and BTW letting it warm up before you drive hard and letting it cool down after you drive hard is common sense, if you dont know this. someone should take your turbo away from you! if not your car.....

You'd be surprised at the number of morons out there!

But 14psi has got to be pushing the limits of your fuel and MAF setup. With my t25/S3 cam setup, 370cc at 4 bar, bored MAF. I hit 90% duty cycle at 12psi and ~5.01 V. T28 with bigger cams and less restrictive exhaust..... gotta be really close to the limit.

when it was all finished up, used a wideband and made sure it wasent running lean. i dyno'd it and it was definitely on the rich side. so im not worried about the fuel i just know heat is an engines worst enemy, and friction. so thats why i was leaning twards cooling it down and keeping the oil at a good temp. but i was thinking about upgrading my MAF just not sure which one

z32 maf:biggthump msd #50 injectors:cool:

Like already stated above possibly upgrading the radiator, rad. fan's, rad. cap, t-stat, using some water wetter, full synthetic fluid for the tranny/oil, highest octane rated gas you can, checking/changing usual tuneup item's and servicing your car religiously...just my .02 cents BTW nice setup :biggthump

nice rizzle!!

i was wondering how long it would take.....