Hey, gang--
I finally got around to prepping my VE engine for install into my '93 SE-R, hopefully next week. We had to get around a case of strep throat (the shop owner) and that really slowed us down last week.

I did some prep work today, and here's the pics.

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/500/medium/veprep4.jpg
My goodness, it's starting to look like a real engine. I removed the factory exhaust manifold, and installed a Mossy Performance underdrive water pump pulley first.

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/500/medium/veprep1.jpg
The Mossy underdrive water pump pulley is a nice piece, and well worth the $46 (IIRC) it costs. Nice job, Greg Vogel.

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/500/medium/veprep2.jpg
Mad tyte JDM Nissan oil filter, 'yo! I ordered up a bunch of stuff from Mossy, and factory oil and fuel filters (300zx) fit the bill. We drained the engine of oil and pulled the lower pan. It had been semi-smashed when strapped to the shipping pallet (pretty normal), and it was hammered back out to shape. It also received a nice coat of glossy black engine paint.

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/500/medium/veprep3.jpg
A new fuel injector harness was also part of the mix, as my old harness had MSD injector-style clips on it. Greg Vogel mentioned the harness was only $22 or so, and I thought 'Why not?'
Also worked on:
•Water temp senders swapped to USDM DE units
•Apexi Super Spiral header test-fitted, and waiting to be worked a little
•DE distributor had the tab ground off, and installed on VE engine

Still left to do:
•Re-install lower oil pan
•Swap over the TunerToys oil pressure distribution block for my gauges
•Install ES mounts on VE from DE
•Install new Fidanza 8.5lb flywheel, transfer over clutch/PP, etc.
•Move alternator from DE to VE, install all belts

After that, we're ready to drop the engine in and get working on firing up the VE within the next 7-10 days. I hope. And pray.

Just wanted to update you guys/gals.

I just got the same pulley in the mail today :). Let me know what size belt you need to fit it.

Engines lookin good!

I would put an oil temp sender in before you put that pan on. If you plan to do any track stuff with that motor, you need oil temp.

I am debating that, Eric. However, that can easily be done after the engine is in and running well on it's own, IMHO. Not too difficult.

I have a hard time drilling a hole in the oil pan, especially down low where it's needed for the right readings.

How come you never hear of oil temp senders being installed *somewhere else* in the path of the flow of oil?

I am debating that, Eric. However, that can easily be done after the engine is in and running well on it's own, IMHO. Not too difficult.

I have a hard time drilling a hole in the oil pan, especially down low where it's needed for the right readings.

How come you never hear of oil temp senders being installed *somewhere else* in the path of the flow of oil?

Just do it like this:

http://www.photodump.com/direct/mpg9999/oilpanedit.jpg


Its out of the way of hitting anything and its pretty much impossible for that to come loose.

Also if you are running a nissport adapter then install it now. The stock sending unit can hit the oil filter if your not careful.

You're not running a power steering pump?

What kind of gains does one get from that underdrive pulley?

You're not running a power steering pump?

What kind of gains does one get from that underdrive pulley?


If I had to guess I'd say the power gains are negligable. Maybe one hp. I'll measure the difference, but by eyeballing it, its maybe 3 mm larger in diamter. The stock pulley is already pretty lightweight. I think the main advantage is going to be to help reduce water pump cavitation

I'm betting the PS pump is still in the engine bay... less messy that way ;)

GP - looking good, thanks for keeping us informed on the se-r's progress :)

I'm betting the PS pump is still in the engine bay... less messy that way ;)

He didn't list that he was going to swap it over, which is why I asked.

Call me what you like, but I would stick w/ the PS. Come to the Convention and you can drive one w/ the PS removed - come visit in a couple months and you can drive one with the PS installed. ;)

Greg: looks good. I've got the Mossy WP sitting on the bench, and I think I have the same JDM-yo NGK wires on my VE.

Josh

PS is still in the engine bay. As Monty said...it's less messy to swap engines that way.

Still not feeling the oil temp sender thing, Mike. I would think that, if I were to install a oil cooler/remote filter/sandwich adapter in the very near future, I could put the temp sender in that area and be okay.

Right now...I just want to get the engine in and running so Calum and I can play with the VE ECU program on the dyno. I can (and will) add in luxuries like the oil temp stuff and a large radiator, once the thing is running okay on its own.

I am debating that, Eric. However, that can easily be done after the engine is in and running well on it's own, IMHO. Not too difficult.

I have a hard time drilling a hole in the oil pan, especially down low where it's needed for the right readings.

How come you never hear of oil temp senders being installed *somewhere else* in the path of the flow of oil?


Actually, the best place to do it is in the sump. Anywhere else and the temp readings you get don't mean as much. Sump temps will be different then sandwich plate temps, would be different then head temps. Most people (not just nissan people) measure temps in the sump. If you want to have easy comparision to others you should do the same. For instance the Corvette has a oil temp sensor that is not the sump (from what I have been told). They see temps near 300F at the track. They don't worry about it (so I am told) because thats normal. If you saw 300F in the sump you sould be afraid, very afraid. Plus, taking the pan off while the engine is out is easy, doing it latter is not so fun. Do it now and just plug the hole if you don't plan to use it right away.

Re: The oil temp sender. I told you to put it in the pan! As Steve said, you'll get the most accurate reading there, and if you put it on the back of the pan, it's completely out of the way. No need to reinvent the wheel here Mr. P, it's worked fine for everyone else.

C

Had I had the time I would just weld a 1"X1/8 inch square to the back of the pan all the way around the square. Drill and tap it and your done. Test the tap depth as you go as the NPT tap is a tappered tap. It gets bigger the more you tap it.

Had I had the time I would just weld a 1"X1/8 inch square to the back of the pan all the way around the square. Drill and tap it and your done. Test the tap depth as you go as the NPT tap is a tappered tap. It gets bigger the more you tap it.
This is what I did... just drove down to a local welder and for $5 had a nice location to tap for my oil temp :)

Also, the Evo9 of my coworker has the oil temp sensor built into the oil drain... this is from the factory.

^^ Yeah, he has the gauge set I'm guessing, Monty?

I've got a oil pressure sender built into my block as well. :D

^^ Yeah, he has the gauge set I'm guessing, Monty?

I've got a oil pressure sender built into my block as well. :D
He has the MR package with the Gauges, Phil.

Looks nice. PLEASE replace the oil pickup tube if the pan was damaged, that is if you haven't done this already!

Things are looking good GP. Thanks for the update on my favorite forum car :D

Wow:eek2: :eek2: :eek2: So it looks like one of the few if not only turbocharged SE-Rs with a very detailed website with tons of info is going the NA route?!?!?!? (I got a lot of help and info from that site by the way....... sigh my hero :rofl: !!!!)Why did you give up on turbo? Good luck with the swap and that motor is very clean by the way.