Hey,
I did a kinda Airbox mod, I cut the larger portion of the box and left the lip with the clamps intact (so i could reclamp to the filter). I did it to have a larger air surface for the filter to pull air from. Anyway I disconnected the MAF sensor and the little connector on the black tube that goes to the resonator. It all worked great only when I put the sensors back and started the car I get a check engine light. The only thing i can think is now the small tube that comes from the resonator in the wheel well to the airbox no longer has a tight fit against the box (its just sitting there). Could this cause a CEL? Will it go away? Can I drive the car? Thanks.

I say keep driving it. It might go away.
What year do you have?
I finally installed a REAL MAF adapter. :)
You can have my ghetto adapter if need be.
You will need a $25 APC funnel filter from PepBoys, though. Works great though!!!
PM me and I can send you pics.
Or e-mail me at home at jlfig13@hotmail.com

HERE IT IS: you'll have to put a filter where the 240 pipe is.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/p6f2ca40ee7f4258998f62d3ab6d4a3ff/fdfa5970.jpg

Hey,
I have a 98 SE. I have reconnected both sensors but the light still stays on. Hmmmm, those are the only things I dissconnected, besides hacking the poo out of the airbox. Do you think it will screw up the computers readings, based on what I did? I don't want it to retart the timing, etc. because its getting wacko readings from the sensors? That's the whole reaon I did the mod, to get more power. I will keep driving...oh, does dissconnecting the battery reset the ecu or is there another way to do that...maybe that will do it?

Anyway I disconnected the MAF sensor and the little connector on the black tube that goes to the resonator.

If you are talking about the connector that attach to the air horn behind the headlight then I know what you might have done. That connector goes to the air temp. sensor. It gets checked by the ecu on startup. Usually after 2 starts you get a MIL. Make sure it is plugged in all the way. You can reconnect it and reset your computer and the light won't come back. JWT says that that sensor is not important with the POP charger. If you have fabricated a CAI then I would drill a hole in the tube and place it in the air stream of the CAI. Instead of resetting the computer you can disconnect your battery for a while.

Steve

Check the ECU codes first. This will save time checking everything. Do this before driving the car everywhere.

Did you unplug your battery when you unplugged your MAF? You should try to unplug your battery for about 30min or so, and your ecu should reset. It shouldn't throw a code after that.

Good Luck

Duc Tran
www.boostfactor.com

No, OBD-II cars will not clear ECU codes if you unplug the battery. That is wrong. You need to manually reset the ECU. Instructions are on www.se-r.net


Terrin
92 SE-R

I have always heard the battery thing, guess I was wrong. I always reset mine on the back of the computer.

Steve

Hey,
I guess you could say that thing is the air horn, all I know is it sucks in air at the resonator in the wheel well and then sends it to the airbox. I did reset the ecu, I had to turn a little screw clockwise and back. The engine light then started blinking short and long...I could never figure out what order, it was all over the place. Anyway once i did that I plugged it all back up and the light came on right on startup.? So now I have taken off the battery cables (for 30 min) put them back on, pulled the ecu, reset it and the light is still on ? Boy I am confused??? I know there is not a problem with the engine cause it was fine before the ghetto hack to the airbox???

Originally posted by: mrTurbo

I did reset the ecu, I had to turn a little screw clockwise and back. The engine light then started blinking short and long...I could never figure out what order, it was all over the place.


I read somewhere in this forum how to do this. You've done the first part. The blinking short and long are the codes. All you have to do is when the blinking stops! Just turn the screw counterclockwise (or clockwise) and then back AGAIN. That should turn off the check engine light. No need to disconnect the battery because the previous post never mentioned that.

According to the guy being helped this instruction worked. If I find the thread I'll post it up here.

Steve

Originally posted by mrtturbo
Hey,
I did a kinda Airbox mod, I cut the larger portion of the box and left the lip with the clamps intact (so i could reclamp to the filter). I did it to have a larger air surface for the filter to pull air from. Anyway I disconnected the MAF sensor and the little connector on the black tube that goes to the resonator. It all worked great only when I put the sensors back and started the car I get a check engine light. The only thing i can think is now the small tube that comes from the resonator in the wheel well to the airbox no longer has a tight fit against the box (its just sitting there). Could this cause a CEL? Will it go away? Can I drive the car? Thanks.

y didnt u *** take the bottom of the airbox out, slap a K and N fiter and zip tie it to the top of the airbox??.....its easier and u dont mess *** sensors, pretty agressive sound when your on WOT too, prolly got a pony or too, cant wait till i get my real intake:)

Originally posted by mrtturbo
Hey,
I guess you could say that thing is the air horn, all I know is it sucks in air at the resonator in the wheel well and then sends it to the airbox. I did reset the ecu, I had to turn a little screw clockwise and back. The engine light then started blinking short and long...I could never figure out what order, it was all over the place. Anyway once i did that I plugged it all back up and the light came on right on startup.? So now I have taken off the battery cables (for 30 min) put them back on, pulled the ecu, reset it and the light is still on ? Boy I am confused??? I know there is not a problem with the engine cause it was fine before the ghetto hack to the airbox???

You need to wait until it stops blinking, then count the number of long flashes, and short flashes. This is the ECU code.