Hey guys here are my dyno results before and after the O2 Induction Intake Manifold and RC Engineering TB. No other changes were made. I was hoping for at least a 20hp gain. Any Ideas why my results were not better? What do you guys think I should try? If any of the Miami guys read this (Rob, Manny, etc.) some advise from you guys may be good as this is Manny's old Manifold and TB, Dre got it from you for me.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e207/mystajoe/JOSEDYNORUNS2.jpg

The car was running very rich. The old number for the 397hp I was running 47psi fuel pressure, for the new run 401hp I backed off the pressure to 40psi. My program is 4bar so I know I should be running 57-58psi but that just made the fuel curve drop right off the scale from about 4k rpm.

Here is a link to what the car has, along with the other parts I have to put on, but just want to dyno results from each part at a time to see progress.
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=142873

you can't just slap it on and dyno and expect gains man ,you need some sort of medium to tune the sucker and get your air fuels set right.

Need to get the car tuned which is kinda hard to do when you r running a JWT ECU unless you have a SAFC or something, these guys are known to re-tune the ECU on the rich side. Your car will not make the amount of power it should if its running too rich. Also you maybe maxing out your MAF with your setup(300ZX right) try and get a Ford Cobra or if you wanna be OD a Ford Lightning you should easily be in the mid to high 400hp range with what you have there. Good luck lets see what the rest of the fellas say. Oh very nice car by the way.

Need to get the car tuned which is kinda hard to do when you r running a JWT ECU unless you have a SAFC or something, these guys are known to re-tune the ECU on the rich side. Your car will not make the amount of power it should if its running too rich. Also you maybe maxing out your MAF with your setup(300ZX right) try and get a Ford Cobra or if you wanna be OD a Ford Lightning you should easily be in the mid to high 400hp range with what you have there. Good luck lets see what the rest of the fellas say. Oh very nice car by the way.

the z32 MAF is good for 550whp

Z32 MAF is not the problem like Will said.

Chimmike - I know it will need a better tuning thats why I do have the SAFC, just not installed yet, but the new fuel curve at around 12 is way better than the old wavey fuel curve alternating between 10 and 11. I should still see some gains just from bolting it on maybe not the full potential but with that better fuel curve it should have been more than a 4hp gain.

Hmm.... something is definitely wrong. If you're having to decrease your fuel pressure to lean out the A/F, and you saw no performance gain with the manifold, I'm going to guess boost leak; pressure test your system! Do you have anything to datalog MAF voltage and duty cycle?

But you do have a lot more of top end power and torque, don't just look for peak number, If you want more that that you will have to retune your car.

yes SR20CR has it right. I dont know why people like to look at peak hp all the time. It doesnt mean anything except for that 1 second you are at redline.

The area under the powerband is what should be the factor. If its nice and big, then you can really have a fast car, and make it really driveable too.

It also looks like you are running out of steam up top. With that size turbo, I'm surprised...it should continue to make hp all the way to redline. If the turbo isnt the factor (which I doubt it is), then looks like you have some gains to be had in the head (might have reached max efficient flow on the head?). Or maybe its the other way around...you aren't spinning the motor fast enough to pull the airflow needed for the manifold. I've seen it happen on B series Honda motors...people spend $300 for a Type R intake manifold, or an Edlebrock or JG racing one, and with stock redline, it makes no hp (actually loses some). However, after redline, if you have cams and valvesprings, the intake manifold really takes off, and makes more than 15 wheel hp. How high can you rev it to with those springs and retainers? It looks like the stock redline might not allow the manifold to make hp.

Or it could just be some simple tuning. Put that AFC in and see what you can do about it. Your A/F looks about right up top, but if you lean it out anymore, it will decrease. 11.1:1 A/F ratio is the sweetspot (where you made the most hp), and you dipped below that, so obviously the injectors in there now are perfectly capable of handling what boost you have it set at.

Nothing currently on the car to to datalog MAF voltage and duty cycle.

I will definately do a pressure test at least by Saturday. The Power does hold after 7k rpm which is definately better, but I guess from what I was reading that everyone else gained from the manifold (peak hp and area under curve) I was expecting more.

The ECU has no rev limiter, I use the MSD for the rev limiter, we were shutting down the runs at 8k rpm, I could go higher, but was just trying to keep everything consistent with the dyno runs before the manifold. I also don't think the turbo should be running out of steam yet. I have the S3 cams in with JWT valve springs and retainers.

I will try to do the pressure test and install the SAFC so I can tune a better fuel curve and then dyno again. Any other ideas that I should check/test/install?

the car should run just fine with the JWT ecu without tuning. I would trouble shoot until I got the car to run as you would expect to. And once you get it sorted out, you can use the SAFC to fine tune.

There's no point in trying to tune with the SAFC if the main ECU can't consistently control everything. It'd be sorta like trying to adjust your tire pressure and having a leak at the same time.

It'd be sorta like trying to adjust your tire pressure and having a leak at the same time.

That was one sexy analogy on Khiems part:biggthump

In my opinion, those S3 cams are not big enough to justify this manifold. What cams did Manny have?

That was one sexy analogy on Khiems part:biggthump

You like that huh :)

FastNx, from looking at his other post, he has some C-series cams ready to drop in.

As for the car now, it would be really really helpful to have something to plug into the consult port so you can look at the MAF, TPS, Inj. duty cycle, O2 voltage.

First, I'd check for a boost leak. Next, the O2 sensor, TPS, and Coolant temp sensors seem to wreck havoc if they are not functioning properly.

Another though did just occur to me.... what ignition setup are you running? Could be either worn out plugs, wrong plug gap, wires, dist. cap/rotor, etc. Also, I'm guessing that you have at least a MSD box? I'd be surprised if the stock ignition could make that much power. If you don't have an aftermarket ignition, that could be it right there.

I'm guessing if you don't have enough spark, it won't ignite the mixture and you'll run rich.... just a guess but it seems to make sense.

Anyways, after doing the pressure test, try putting the fuel pressure where it should be, adjust the idle, adjust the tps, might have to adjust the idle again, reset the ecu, etc.

Yeah I was thinking either the S3 cams or maybe even the protech log manifold was choking the car, but others have made more power than this with those parts.

regardless of the power number, your A/F is jacked up!

Yeah I was thinking either the S3 cams or maybe even the protech log manifold was choking the car, but others have made more power than this with those parts.
How's it going? I didn't know you grabbed my old manifold.
Anyways, I would definitely check for boost leaks. Also, check your voltage at the pump. I found out this pass saturday that my fuel pump was only getting 10 volts :squint:

I gained 39 whp @ 12 psi from this manifold so I know the manifold works. Something else to think about, I was running S4 cams.

WHat turbo are you running?

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

what size downpipe? Definitely pressure test your set up.