Today I finished the install that I started Saturday evening. It took a while because I only worked on it occasionally and I couldn't loosen the damn nut on the tie rods at first.

The stock ride hieght is 26.34" in the front and 25.59" in the rear (FSM values, I forgot to measure cause I was so excited to start taking things apart). If you take into account the fact that I am running smaller tires (205/50/15), the stock ride height should be 0.4" lower:

-----------Stock----Moti's-----Drop
Front----25.95----24.25-----1.7"
Rear-----25.20----24.375---0.8"

When I first put the wheels back on, the front was at 23.5 (2.5" drop) and the rear was at 25.0. The front looked slammed and the rear looked like a rally car.

I put in GC C/C plates in the front and am using the Motivational rear plates in the rear, so I have about the stock amount of suspension travel and the car looks even :)

The front is at -1.7 degrees camber and zero toe. The toe was 0.375" out after lowering before I corrected it. With the camber plates, I can get a little over -3.5 degrees. I didn't even bother to measure the rear, but I will sometime.
I am using 350 in-lb front springs and 300 in-lb rear springs. I have only done a little driving so far but it feels very comfortable. While driving on the highway it feels stock (well, it feels the same, or a little softer, then the stock springs with AGX at 2/3 and only a little stiffer than a 91 SE-R with ES bushing kit). However, it feels much better than stock while turning, accelerating, or brake. I am really amazed at how normal it felt on a short highway trip. I will do a lot more testing tomorrow ;) I think lots of corning testing is in order :D

I also thought it would be noisier from what I have read. The rears especially make noise over short choppy bumps, but the fronts are mainly quiet (with GC C/C plates and a front STB). I'll look into the rear noise sometime, but I'm not sure if I can do anything about it.

Sabby drove to Columbus from Cincinnati on Sunday to help me. Thanks Saaby! I wish we could have finished so you could take it for a test drive.

I had to update my sig!

My AGX should be for sale soon.

The rears especially make noise over short choppy bumps

I am willing to bet that the top strut nut needs to be tightened. I had the same problem when we installed my suspension. Give it a try when you get a chance and let me know.

-saaby

i'm assuming you don't have to take up the slack for the moti's like you would for the AGX's (the washer trick).

i've already commented on the length of your sig **, so now w/ the new additions, please tell me you'll have some pics up soon. :)

I don't think that is it. I had about an inch of washers on my AGX and they were silent.

The shock shaft has a rim where the tophat sits. Then there is the small rubber washer. Then the Moti plate. Then the car frame. Then the big ribbed rubber washer, then the gold washer, then the nut. I had the nut tightened so far the big ribbed washer was compressed in half and very hard.

I'll look into it more today.

it must be nice to be able to afford moti's. you have broke people like me who are still 4 wheelin (stock springs).

how many threads are above the top nut? according the mike(?) @ moti, you only need 2-3 threads above the nut. the rest of the space should be taken up w/ washers or (my idea) a section of copper pipe.

i still want pics. ;) :D

Jacen, do you have the coil-overs or just the shortened struts? To be honest with you, I don't hear any squeeks with either my coil-overs or my lady's AGX's. I will say that with the AGX'x I didn't use all of the pieces that the instructions say to use. I think I only used the supplied washers and the big ribbed washer. I'll double check and let you know. But I really haven't heard any squeaking with either set up.

Martin

Originally posted by Stiletto
how many threads are above the top nut? according the mike(?) @ moti, you only need 2-3 threads above the nut. the rest of the space should be taken up w/ washers or (my idea) a section of copper pipe.

i still want pics. ;) :D

I've got more than 2-3 threads. I really tightened it to the point I was worried about the rubber washer splitting.

What do you want pics of? Just the outside to look at ride height and fender gaps?

I need to do more work up front with the STB. I drove for 1/2 hour with no noise from the front, then I start my car up later and back out and the STB is hitting part of the engine again grrrr...

My noise isn't squeeks. It is definately clunks (metal to something hard type contact). The rear was less clunky on the 1/2 hour trip I mentioned above.

I have the coilovers.

Originally posted by jacen99SE
I've got more than 2-3 threads. I really tightened it to the point I was worried about the rubber washer splitting.

i did the same thing and had the clunking noise. once i replaced the ribbed rubber spacer w/ washers/copper piece the noise went bye-bye. i don't pretend to know more than you, but try removing the rubber piece and using washers (or whatever) and have only 2-3 threads above the nut. if that doesn't work....i dunno mang, that's where i scratch my head and shrug.

What do you want pics of? Just the outside to look at ride height and fender gaps?

anything and everything. :)

I'll look into the rear noise sometime, but I'm not sure if I can do anything about it.

You can also use a urethane swaybar end, or get a plastic washer from LOWE's in the hardware section. They also sell steal spacers to take up the space also. If you use a plastic washer and a steel spacer put a steel washer on top of the plastic to keep the metal from grinding in. I have been using the plastic washer 1/2 inch thick for months. It has not broken down and was much quiter then the stock rubber. Honestly the urethane swaybar end link bushing is the best option IMHO.

If you take into account the fact that I am running smaller tires (205/50/15), the stock ride height should be 0.4" lower:

205/50/15 have the same sidewall height as 195/55/15

Rear-----25.20----24.375---0.8"

Why dont you just lower the back with the adjustment?

Steve

Originally posted by 98sr20de
205/50/15 have the same sidewall height as 195/55/15
No, they don't. Check out the specs (diameter) on Tirerack's website for Potenza 730's in 205/50/15 versus the goodyear eagle RS-A's in 195/55/15.


Why dont you just lower the back with the adjustment?
I like the way it looks now.

I'll try what you and stiletto have mentioned for the rears.

I did a lot more grinding on the two emissions cylinders, the two throttle cable brackets, and the tab on the actual throttle. Then I made three trips (1/2 hour, 2 hours, and 1/2) with no STB noise. Woohoo!

I'll get pictures soon. Then I'll try and find a place to host them.

No, they don't. Check out the specs (diameter) on Tirerack's website for Potenza 730's in 205/50/15 versus the goodyear eagle RS-A's in 195/55/15.

When I put the 205/50 on my car I thought I remember doing the math and finding out that they were the same. My memory must really be slipping because you are right. I will post this to give some info so you can get a general idea on sidewall height without tireracks site (if you didn't know)

205 X .50 = 102.5 mm sidewall height.
195 X .55 = 107.25 mm sidewall height.
195 X .50 = 97.5 mm sidewall height.

This is what is supposed to happen on an average tire. In reality the tires vary from the norm a little in most cases.

Stiletto and I met over the weekend and were talking about the 195/50/50 size.

Steve

Edit: .4 inches is actually 10 mm. With the above figures your ride height should only be .2 lower not .4 lower. One of the tires you are using most be off the ideal spec by that amount if tire rack is correct.

Originally posted by 98sr20de

Edit: .4 inches is actually 10 mm. With the above figures your ride height should only be .2 lower not .4 lower. One of the tires you are using most be off the ideal spec by that amount if tire rack is correct.

You have to double the difference if you look at it from the sidewall height point-of-view because there are 2 sidewalls between the ground and the fender lip (ie, you're only looking at the radius part).


Tomorrow it is supposed to rain all day, maybe I can take pictures on Thursday.

Then I made three trips (1/2 hour, 2 hours, and 1/2) with no STB noise. Woohoo!
I still can't believe how freaking comfortable the ride is. I took my mom and little brother for a ride while I was home for Easter and they thought it was really comfortable too.

Originally posted by jacen99SE
I'll get pictures soon. Then I'll try and find a place to host them.

hey, if you want, i have some free space on my website. you wouldn't have to worry about signing up for anything, and i'd be FREE. lemme know if you're interested.

Originally posted by Stiletto


hey, if you want, i have some free space on my website. you wouldn't have to worry about signing up for anything, and i'd be FREE. lemme know if you're interested.
That would be great. I have 8 pictures. 4 of the car height and 4 of the STB and Camber/Caster plates. Right now they are 1600x1200 and 10 megs, but I can shrink them to 800x600 and drop the total size to about 2.5 megs. let me know what you want to do and I'll email them to you.

Jason, when I put my GCs in, the rear made the same noise you are talking about. I pulled the trunk carpet back, and while sitting on the edge of the trunk, the shaft moved up from the gold washer. I bought a bunch of washers from Home Depot, and kept adding washers until teh shaft didn't move, even when I bounced in the trunk. Did you have to cut anything in the front to use the camber plates? I really need a set now :(

Did you have to cut anything in the front to use the camber plates?
Nope. I used the Courtesy FSTB as a spacer so I didn't have to grind down the lip on the shock tower. I don't know if that is how it is supposed to be done, but its working for me.

How much were the plates if you don't mind me asking.

Originally posted by jacen99SE


You have to double the difference if you look at it from the sidewall height point-of-view because there are 2 sidewalls between the ground and the fender lip (ie, you're only looking at the radius part).



The height of the car is only affected by one sidewall not two. Rim to ground is all that matters. The radius is affected by both but not your ride height.