Well, I've got the "kit" installed (kinda a hacked together bunch of pieces) and it's almost all working quite well.

On my friend's car, I've installed a t25 from a bluebird and other misc pieces. so far the car idles great, has a good amount of pickup but when you let off the throttle after boosting, it floods itself or at least thats how it acts. I've run a diverter (I've done DSM's and Toyota's so I know the diverter vs BOV thing) so that I would not be loosing metered air. I've plumbed the WG into the intake pipe JUST before the TB. the BOV is tee'd into the FPR hose. I want to be sure I've got these plumbed properly.

I can't get the timing to set properly in this car. when I try to get to base timing as soon as I disconnect the TPS the idle jumps up to 2g's and holds there. I'm pretty sure right now it's DAMNED close to factory time and it runs great until you back off the gas.

anyone have any ideas? I'm not sure what ECU the car is running since I didn't buy any of this stuff, I just installed it. All the pieces have been on a Turbo'd SE-R in the past.

Do you get back fire?

No back-fire.

I'm not sure if it's the fuel system or not. It will do it all the time no matter if your on the street driving it or at a standstill with no load. I'm not sure what it is.

stock fuel pressure? Stock regulator? Fuel pump? Need more info. Bov recirculated? Find out what program ECU they are running?

To get it in base timing mode you have to unplug tps and rev past 3 k many times until it drops to base idle around 900

Upgraded fuel pump & injectors, stock FPR. BOV recirc. ECU is running stock program. I've been told that it's from a bluebird.

I know how to set base timing. I've done it plenty of times. This car wont allow it to happen.

car started to back fire now.

stock fpr might be it along with ur stock ecu program. the fuel pressure is supposed to be set for ur specific ECU. get that fixed and then see if it helps.

Upgraded fuel pump & injectors, stock FPR. BOV recirc. ECU is running stock program. I've been told that it's from a bluebird.

I know how to set base timing. I've done it plenty of times. This car wont allow it to happen.

car started to back fire now.
upgraded injectors doesnt tell us a thing, injectors come in sizes. find out the exact size. you say its a stock ecu, but what motor is it in? if its on a usdm motor a lot of the sensors need to be changed to match the ecu

I would get out a volt meter anc check the MAF... Does the car Bog under load?

upgraded injectors doesnt tell us a thing, injectors come in sizes. find out the exact size. you say its a stock ecu, but what motor is it in? if its on a usdm motor a lot of the sensors need to be changed to match the ecu



Hey guys this is my car that he is talking about. The injectors are 370cc and the entire kit was on a USDM sr20 and ran perfectly according to Fred Casey.

What sensors are you referring to?


Jason

well he said stock ecu from a bluebird. if so then the maf, o2 sensor and some other sensors need to match the ecu.

well he said stock ecu from a bluebird. if so then the maf, o2 sensor and some other sensors need to match the ecu.


We used my original MAF but that was only because the part numbers were the same so we didn't think there would be a difference. We also used my original o2 sensor since the one that came with the kit looked like a$$. Any other sensors I need to replace?


Thanks!

If you are running a Bluebird ECU you need to run the skinny ass O2 sensor. Are you running a USDM motor with 9.5 to 1 compression. I would back the timing down a little and watch your duty cycle. I wouldn't run more than 7psi.

We used my original MAF but that was only because the part numbers were the same so we didn't think there would be a difference. We also used my original o2 sensor since the one that came with the kit looked like a$$. Any other sensors I need to replace?


Thanks!
the problem most likely is with the o2 sensor, if you have the stock one that came with the kit try swapping it out and see if that helps.. as for the other sensors you should go ahead and search I dont remeber off the top of my head what sensors needed to be changed out

the problem most likely is with the o2 sensor, if you have the stock one that came with the kit try swapping it out and see if that helps.. as for the other sensors you should go ahead and search I dont remeber off the top of my head what sensors needed to be changed out


The only problem with that is that I think the original one that came with the kit found its way to the trash can. Any suggestions if that is the case?

I forgot to mention that the CEL came on last night and I just checked the code which is Code # 35: Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor The Exhaust Gas Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted.

Is this the o2 sensor then?

no thats for your egr, but it should not come up if you have a bb ecu, cause det's dont have egr from factory... find out what ecu you got

I can go and get the numbers off of it but how do I cross reference it?

My EGR is long gone.


I should also mention that prior to checking the code when the car would die it would usually start up nice and easy and idle along very happily and be just fine. Now after checking the code (not sure if all related) when it dies and I restart the car it wants to just die again. It is becoming a bit of a struggle to keep it running when not on the throttle. Also the CEL has now turned off.

Okay, the numbers on the ECU look like this....

From top to bottom (not sure what numbers are needed so I wrote them all down)

*5ZE1PM*

PM (big letters in the middle)

A11-DO1 BPO 3906 (these are the small boxes near the bottom)

search around a little i donthave an answer for that for you but you need to know what the ecu is set for, whether it was reprogrammed, etc

I can't find any info on here about how to track the serial number to find out exactly what it is from and I just called my Nissan dealer and they said they could not (or would not) look it up for me either. Anyone have any suggestions?


Thanks!