Hey, I am going out to buy a timing light this weekend and need to know the instructions adjusting timing. I know there is some good stuff, but I am unable to search (I think it is turned off?). So, if y'all could give me some advice, processes, links, tips, etc. it would be much appreciated!

Oh, one question that I have never seen discussed, when you refer to 'knock', as in the knock that happens if you advance the timing to much, what does it sound like? Is it exetremely noticeable? Or settle? Reason I am asking is that I am going to try and run my SE-R @ 19* w/ an octane boost.

Thanks for you help!

Jerrod

Warm up engine to regular operating temp, and ensure idle speed stays below 1000 rpm.
Run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes under no-load [in neutral, no accessories on]. Race engine 2 or 3 times under no-load, then run engine at idle speed. [this heats up the oxygen sensor so it is working]
Turn off engine and disconnect throttle position sensor (TPS) harness connector. [It's on the side of the throttle body facing the firewall - driver side of the engine, down low and past the brake master-cylinder]
Start engine. Race engine (2 - 3000 rpm) under no-load, the run at idle speed. [You may have trouble keeping it running with the throttle sensor disconnected. Depending on where your timing is set, it may stall. If so have someone sit in the car and press the gas *very slightly* to keep it running. Don't rev it up or you will not get an accurate timing reading/adjustment. Keep it at idle speed, about 800 rpm]
Check ignition timing with a timing light. It should be 15 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees Before Top Dead Center. [The timing mark at the extreme left (counter-clockwise) is zero degrees. There are lines at 5, 10 and 20 degrees to the right of it. There is a wide paint mark from 13 to 15 degrees, which the factory probably set yours to. Eyeball 17 degrees between the marks and that's what you want.]
From the 1991 Technical Bulletins, Beginning with April 1991 production,
the ignition timing mating mark has been changed as shown below.

NEW marks at -5,0,5,10,13,white paint,15,20 B.T.D.C..
OLD marks at 0,5,10,15,20 B.T.D.C..

[Editoral note: there has been a lot of dicussion about the timing marks and basically it comes down to the easiest way to find the 15 degree mark after the early '91 production is to look for the white paint or the two marks that appear very close to each other. ]



-5 0 5 10 1315 20

| | | | ### |

^
17

If not, slightly loosen two bolts holding the distributor, and twist it [toward the front of the engine to advance, toward the cabin to retard] to obtain the desired timing. [Recheck the setting after tightening the bolts!].
Shut off engine and reconnect throttle sensor.
That's it. The trick is to set it to the extreme limit of the specification - 17 degrees. You'll get noticeably better throttle response there. Advanced timing helps power, but can cause knocking or pinging. The EFI computer *should* "hear" this and back off the timing to prevent engine damage, at which point it may run worse than if you had kept the timing conservative. Mine didn't benefit from going beyond 17. I always run 91 octane or better gas too, which lets you push the timing farther without trouble.



> When I disconnect the TPS, the idle speed jumps to around 1000rpm and the
> timing is stable but it is a little bit past the last mark (past 20 BTDC).

Mike Kojima writes: you need to rev the motor past 3000 rpm 3 times for the motor to lock the timing (after disconnecting the TPS)

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How far can I advance my timing and still use 87 octane?:confused:

^^^I was trying to find that also.

http://www.se-r.net/engine/about_timing.html

You can go up to 17 degrees w/ 87 octane but IMO it is still risky.

It sounds like a pinging noise, you would probably notice it under strain like heavy acceleration or going up a hill.

This thread is two years old. Search the other threads to see how you can use 87 octane and safely advance timing to as far as 17* BTDC.