doing my turbo install in steps, as recommended by the faq, though I switched steps 2 and 3 (don't think it matters in my case):

1: had clutch in (3 yrs), though it's on its way out heh

2: S3 cams installed with stock ECU for 5 months, runs good

now for step 3, as recommended by faq:

"Get the proper JWT ECU/injectors/MAF combination and install them, NA. Run that around for a week or so, again, WITH NO TURBO SYSTEM. If this runs well, then go to step 3."

I installed the following last night:

-JWT ECU with "9.5:1, 370cc, 53.5 MAF, etc."
-53.5 bored MAF
-370cc injectors

It took a few tries to get the car started up, maybe 3 or 4 tries, but it finally fired up. For the first cold startup, the car did its warm up idle, but a minute after, the idle slowly went down, bouncing like it was fighting to stay alive, but the car died again. Tried starting up the car again like 4 or 5 times one after the other, no good.

So I gave the car maybe about 20 minutes to wind down again so I could try another cold startup. After that time span, I cranked the car again, and it started up fine, did its warm thing, and then dropped to 750-800 rpm. This time, it held the idle, but the car really rough. And by rough, I mean really rough. The idle loping is like twice as rough before, as if accentuated by the ECU. It does maintain the rpms (800) at idle, though.

I took the car for a spin around the block, didn't really rip it or anything, but the car felt pretty normal when I floored the pedal. I floored it to maybe 4700 rpm and the car felt alright. From a stop, though, the car really stumbles off the line when I let the clutch go. The idle seemed to have gotten a little better when I came back to the house. I'll need to spend some more time driving it around when I get back home later.

So I guess my question is, should the car just fire right up and run just fine after installing the ECU, MAF, and injectors? Or does the ECU have to do a little thinking before stuff runs right? Hopefully when I get back home, the car will actually fire up again... I took my mom's van to work :rolleyes:

Twice, when i've put in a new ECU, I had it idle really high (~2000rpms) with the rpms bouncing around. Went out, floored it a couple times, and everything seemed to adjust itself.

But basically, you're putting a new ECU in and it's trying to adjust to all the sensors. It'd be sorta like you trying on someone else's clothes, you have to adjust little things here and there.

Is the car running rich? When you installed the injectors, you lubed the o-rings right? You got the bored MAF but not the 4 bar program? I'd go through the entire adjusting the idle, ignition timing, and TPS procedure outlined in the FSM. What's the MAF voltage? O2 sensor is alright? Anything to watch over those parameters including injector duty cycle?

Great analogy. Not sure if the car's running rich, need to do some searching to see how to check for that. I got the 3bar program, should I have gotten 4 bar? Gregv didn't suggest it from what I remember when I ordered the ECU. I'll have to put the stock crank pulley back on to adjust the timing/idle, the UR pulley I have only has one mark. Last time I checked the TPS voltage (few months ago) it was good, will check again. O2 sensor was fine before installing anything, I don't see how it would get jacked up from installing injectors/MAF/ECU. I will ask one of my buds to borrow his Techtom to monitor ECU parms, including injector duty cycle. Thanks for the suggestions :cool:

glad u got the ecu in. sometimes the computer just needs to "learn" and will run fine later. hopefully it's not ur injectors

you know what, I'm thinking it may actually be the injectors. I used the injector caps to press in the injectors, thought that might work, but when I took the caps off to check if the injectors were seated properly, they would kinda creep back out and not be flush with the rail. I tried some weird techniques to try and get the lil' bitches to seat properly, but most of them would just slip back and not be flush. They do look flush, however, when I tighten down the injector caps. I'm thinking the o-rings aren't seating themselves properly. I might have to do the injector install over again, and see what the result is. Argh this car is killing my study time :(

the injectors should be sitting in there without you even tightening it. don't use the screws to tighten it down by itself. make sure the o rings are still good. also.. when u start it up, look and see if they are leaking. i would also not drive it around if it's running like crap.. don't want anything to go kaBOOM!

heh yeah i checked to see if fuel was spitting out the top of the fuel rail, it's fine. I ordered new o-rings from Tony Nissan, gonna pick it up later, and have another crack at it. I'll lube the injectors this time around (didn't do so the first time).

use white lithium grease.. that should work good.. just don't go crazy with it

heh yeah i checked to see if fuel was spitting out the top of the fuel rail, it's fine. I ordered new o-rings from Tony Nissan, gonna pick it up later, and have another crack at it. I'll lube the injectors this time around (didn't do so the first time).
that's the problem i've done that before.

I just used motor oil to lube the injector o-rings. As for why the 3 bar/stock MAF or 4 bar/bored MAF combos with 370cc injectors: the 370s at 3 bar are good for around 240whp and that's somewhere around where the stock MAF tops out. The bored MAF is good for around 300whp, and 370s at 4 bar around 280whp.

With the bored MAF at idle (~800rpms), it should read around 1.45-1.5V. The 370cc injector at 3 bar of fuel pressure at the same idle should have a duty cycle of around 1.6%-1.7% or so.

yes my friends, the injectors were the problem. In particular, it was the far left cylinder that was the problem, which was leaking (badly): the left cylinder (forgot what number it is heh) had gas in it. I figured that much out when i took off the intake plenum, and lo and behold, there was gas in the left lower intake manifold runner, literally filled to the top of the runner. :eek: Took out the spark plug and yup, the cylinder had gas in it. So I got high on gasoline by siphoning it out with some tubing, with my mouth as the vacuum :redface:

I then pulled out the injectors, lubed them up with lithium grease, and they popped right in, no problem. Car fired up ok after that, let the motor idle for 30 minutes and the car seems to be ok. I just hope I didn't damage the anything in the left cylinder when I cranked it over with gasoline inside... but I took the car for a spin and floored first/second, and the car seems fine. Thanks guys :biggthump

^^^ That happend to me also, make sure there is no GAS in your oil, my oil reeked of gas so i quickly changed it.

Gasonline will keep oil from lubing your bearings so be carefull...