Engine work done while its out? [Archive] - SR20 Forum

: Engine work done while its out?


SENTRASER
03-30-2002, 07:32 PM
What kinda engine work should be done to an SR20 while its out and being re-built? I'm gonna be putting either GTiR pistons in there or forged pistons if I can find them for cheap enough...I was planing on haveing the rods shot-piened(can't spell) and possibly cryo treated....what elce could I have done that wouldn't cost much, and could be machine work? Any ideas would be appriciated...I was thinking oil squirters and a mild port and polish on the head, maybe a 3 angle valve job...and some flow testing...how much would it cost to have titanium valve springs and retainers put in? Anyone know if totalseal sells rings for the SR20(Or possibly for the 3.0DETT) or do they make the rings custom for each job? TIA for your help guys...

~Ryan

SENTRASER
04-01-2002, 12:20 AM
Com'on you turbo monkeys...I need some repsonces here...:(

~Ryan

SENTRASER
04-01-2002, 03:00 PM
Are these stupid questions or what?!:confused:

AntonioG
04-01-2002, 04:23 PM
Ok, they're not dumb questions, they're questions without any purpose. You have not stated the intent of this motor. 200hp? 400hp? 600hp? What do you want? And do you really got enough budgeted to pay for what you want?

You want all the high tech stuff, but you say you want it cheaply. Not gonna happen. Sorry. Cheap, fast, good...pick any two.

Also, complete sentences and proper punctuation go a long way.

SENTRASER
04-01-2002, 05:49 PM
Okay, I've cut out the totalseal rings, I'm just gonna use OE 300zxTT rings, and an 87 mm bore. I want the piston coolers, and I'm looking to have some head-work done. From what I understand the bottom end is fairly bullet-proof, but would it hurt to have the rod's shot-pined? Cryo-treated? Someone told me that the rods were shot-pined from the factory...is this true? What about the crank? I'm looking for the ins and outs of things I can do while the engine is appart and out. Sorry if there are so many questions, and not sure if you noticed Antonio but my punctuation is better, my previous punctuation was better than I have seen lots of people do on this forum that get answers. :):p Thanks for any help, oh yeh, I'm looking for a good street car, nothing fancy. Probably nothing more than 400hp, atleast for now. I know head-work will help any head, but how do our heads flow? Anyone have any idea; like as far as 60/40, 50/50, what? :)

~Ryan

AntonioG
04-01-2002, 07:30 PM
Well, if you're going to do a 1mm overbore, use JWT to do the boring and honing. They have a torque plate for the SR20. You'll also want to get oil squirters installed so you'll be like a DET. This labor will cost you around ~$450. Not bad.

OEM Nissan rings are better than anything you can get I hear. For 400whp, you can leave the bottom end alone. The weakest link will be pistons. Go forged if you want or go w/ the cast zxtt pistons w/ Swain coatings. Either should be good for longevity. But, stock 9.5:1 DE motors have been able to lay down 400+whp with water injection and race gas. The rods should be fine, but they may have to be slightly modified to fit the larger pistons. Maybe the only thing I'd get is better rod bolts.

Honestly, if you want a good street car, swain-coated zxtt pistons or JWT forged pistons w/ stock rods, stock head (maybe get the valve job - good headwork is $$$) w/ GTi-R turbo parts bolted on should be awesome for the street. Crazy power + FWD = wheelspin city. You could boost to 14psi w/ the stock MAF and 370cc injectors maxed out and pull mid-high 12s in the 1/4 on slicks. Now, if you were going for a hard core drag race machine, then I would get a little more serious. ;)

98sr20ve
04-01-2002, 07:40 PM
Originally posted by SENTRASER
[B]From what I understand the bottom end is fairly bullet-proof, but would it hurt to have the rod's shot-pined? Cryo-treated? Someone told me that the rods were shot-pined from the factory...is this true? I'm looking for a good street car, nothing fancy. Probably nothing more than 400hp, atleast for now. I know head-work will help any head, but how do our heads flow? Anyone have any idea; like as far as 60/40, 50/50, what? :)
~Ryan [e/B]

Ok I'm not an expert but maybe you will apprecate the post just to keep you higher on the list. I would do the piston coolers for sure. Also, If I higher flow oil pump from a BB fits I would look into it if not then a new oem. Rods would be lower on my list then pistons. The GTIR pistons are relatively cheap at Nismo. I have heard that the cast pistons are good till 400hp or so. I would consider not going with the bigger Z piston with a turbo. Many manufactures put smaller pistons into there turbo cars to give more block strength. I hear the rods are strong. The block is good till 500 hp or so. These are all durability items. I would look at porting and matching the turbo and manifolds. Extrude hone if that is an option. Swan coating the GTIR pistons might be good. Headwork is a great option. Balance the crank/rods/pistons. Check the prices on these things. Maybe others will have other ideas.

Steve