Starter Noise [Archive] - SR20 Forum

: Starter Noise


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Se-Racer
03-31-2002, 08:27 PM
what would cause my starter to make a whining noise when crank the car after it has been sitting awhile? It just started doing it recently should i replace my starter or could it be something else like the teeth on the flywheel or lack there of? any help will be greatly appreciated......TIA

Grip
03-31-2002, 10:09 PM
If its a Brrrrrrrrrrrrurp! Its a common problem our cars have.

Se-Racer
04-01-2002, 11:48 AM
Is there any way to fix it, it's really starting to bug me.

Grip
04-01-2002, 12:01 PM
Not that I know of, or have ever heard of. If you were to replace the starter perhaps. I don't know if its a problem with Nissan starters or what, I just live with it until it fails then I'll replace mine.

Bowlcut
04-01-2002, 01:13 PM
Its a small design flaw they fixed. One way to fix it is to get a new starter and get the Mistu one not the Hitiachi (or the other way around i forget which check the archives for starter squeal). or you can pull it and rebuild it with some pain. its the brushes start to rub or something.

Grip
04-01-2002, 06:00 PM
Thanks Bowlcut for that very good info. I'll make a note of it for when she goes out on me.

Se-Racer
04-02-2002, 01:38 PM
What is a general cost for a new starter, i'll have to put it on my list of things to do this weekend...........:rolleyes:

NismoSER
04-02-2002, 09:06 PM
When I got my generic brand new starter, the unit itself cost around 150 I believe. Many people on the board have been living with the starter squeal for years, I just couldn't stand the noise anymore.

You can get good starters from Andreas Miko, from this very forum, for 65 beans i think.

Se-Racer
04-03-2002, 12:23 PM
It's getting replaced today can't live with that annoying ass noise evrytime i crank my car up, if i had more time i would get it from Andreas but i just can't take the noise anymore. I found sopmeone localy who has one in stock for $160. Thanks everyone for all the info..

ak555
04-08-2002, 06:11 PM
Hitachi=noisy
Mitsubishi=quiet

The noise doesn't affect starter operation but it sure is annoying.

Got mine through a local shop for $120 or so plus core. If the shop can't figure out which manufacturer you are getting, just indicate its for a nx2000 or p10 g20. I believe they came with the quiet starter in the first place.

Black93
04-09-2002, 05:39 PM
i dont know how to recognize starter squeal but do you hear yours after the cranking and once the motor has fired up??? ive had some strange noise as soon as the motor cranks ever since i bought the car. I dont really care anymore it sorta matches the annoying door chime.:D

jason dinner
03-06-2006, 09:37 PM
So you mean to tell me that that Brrrrrrrrrrrrurp! noise that I hear right
after I start my car and it's running for that first split second is normal?

I feel it on the shifter when it happens. Just started happening too.
But the car is old and I don't know how many miles are on it. Don't
really care either because it runs stronger than I could imagine.

Thanks,
Jason

districtborn19
03-06-2006, 10:03 PM
get one from miko, 50 bucks :cool:

T200Sx
03-07-2006, 12:35 AM
i have a GA but mine did that for like a month or so and it was worse in the cold wenter and it finally died and just replaced it i hated that damn sound

jerryeads
03-07-2006, 11:05 AM
The funny noise that many of them make when it's spinning down after start is bushings. - the shaft is "rattling" in the bushing. Pita, and they'll eventually die, but not for a long time. The parts books still list the bushings as well as the brushes, so they're a pretty easy overhaul unless the windings are shot. The parts places want 160-180, so you guys that are finding them for less are doing well.

B14Boost
03-07-2006, 01:47 PM
If it is a high-pitched noise while cranking that usually means the distance between the started pinon and flywheel is too much.

shawn

jerryeads
03-07-2006, 03:02 PM
No easy way to adjust that that I know of Shawn - except maybe if the front bushing were pretty worn, allowing the pinion to walk away from the flywheel. Ugh.

B14Boost
03-07-2006, 11:14 PM
You can either file it down a bit to make it closer, or shim one side and tighten down the side without the washer on it. Dont torque down the bolts too hard, or you will crack the case. Hope this works.

Shawn

B14Boost
03-09-2006, 05:26 PM
Updated my last post. That is how you make the pinion to flywheel distance closer. It should be .020"-.060" but I would check the specs with a manual for that.

Shawn

Pfsantos
04-27-2006, 01:20 PM
On my 95 200SX SE-R (SR20DE engine), replacing the starter was a PITA,

compared to other vehicles I've worked on.

The intake manifold bracket/support prevents removal of the starter. To

remove this bracket completely, you have to deal with a few items:

The EGR/Canister solenoid valve is bolted to it, and has three vacuum

hoses which connect it to vacuum piping attached to the engine. Also,

wiring to the solenoid valve and Power steering fluid pressure switch (I

think that's what it is) is "zip tied" to the bracket. Finally, what to

me was a surprise, the starter solenoid wire does not unplug at the

starter - it's crimped to it - and ends at a plug that is mounted on a

tab on this same bracket which was hard to remove. All of this wouldn't

be a problem except for the location and lack of space.

I just unbolted the bracket [two bolts at the bottom (14mm socket), two

nuts (12mm socket) at the top], snipped some "zip ties" holding wiring to

the bracket and moved the bracket out of the way to allow the starter to

come out.

To remove the starter:
- Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
- Using 12mm socket remove nut holding the power supply wire to the

starter solenoid. Don't remove the other nut holding the wire from the

solenoid to the starter.
- The bolts holding the starter to the bellhousing are accessible from

the transaxle side. I used a 1/2" ratchet to break them loose, and then

moved to a 3/8" and 1/4" socket to allow more room to turn.

Installing:
You'll want two people...one to hold the starter, and one to hand turn

the bolts until finger tight to avoid cross threading.

Cleaning/regreasing:
Other posts I've read have blamed the starter squeal to anything from

bushings to brushes to the reduction gearing. I just took the starter

apart and cleaned everything, being careful with the winding. I focused

on the reduction gear area and regreased. It just had remnants of dirty

grease - I'm convinced this is where the noise came from. I also cleaned

the bushings and greased them a bit, and cleaned the area on the winding

where the brushes touch.

All in all, if it wasn't for the bracket and related issues, this would

have been quite an easy job for somebody comfortable working on cars.

Having said that, however, it was still very much worth it, considering

the noise is now gone. It also gave me an idea of how worn the brushes

were.

One last note...I've read about fellow members re-greasing the starter

(well-taking it apart in the first place) with it bolted on. My opinion

on this is that it is something I'd never attempt, because you don't get

to see and work with the starter as well as when you take it out.