Not out to steal anyone's thunder, just want to have all the info in one place so that the next person can read this and know everything they need to do this swap.

People I need to thank who provided most of the info I needed to do this swap:

Chris Scarpulla, Greg Perry, Andreas Miko, Rex, mpg9999, the illest rice, jerryeads and I'm sure, other people who I'm forgetting.

Here’s the details on how I swapped a VE into my ’93:

DE Removal

Depressurize fuel line
Remove hood
Disconnect and remove battery
Remove strut tower brace
Disconnect thermostat ground from chassis
Disconnect MAFS harness
Remove MAFS
Disconnect vacuum hose from intake piping
Remove intake piping
Disconnect clutch cable
Disconnect TPS
Disconnect fuel supply hose and return hose
Disconnect Vacuum hoses
Disconnect throttle cable
Disconnect cruise cable
Disconnect coil
Disconnect O2 sensor
Disconnect injectors
Remove injector harness
Disconnect PAIRC solenoid valve
Disconnect harness grounds on intake manifold
Disconnect harnesses
Disconnect radiator fans
Drain radiator
Disconnect coolant overflow hose and remove tank
Remove radiator hoses and high side neck
Remove radiator and fans
Disconnect passenger’s side harness ground
Disconnect the 4 engine harness connectors from their chassis connectors
Jack up front end
Separate primary from secondary exhaust header
Remove front wheels
Remove driveshaft nuts
Drain transmission gear oil
Remove drive shafts
Remove power steering pump
Disconnect A/C compressor harness
Remove A/C compressor
Disconnect and remove alternator (may or may not be necessary)
Disconnect tranny ground
Disconnect shift linkage
Disconnect heater hoses
Secure engine with hoist
Disconnect transmission mount
Disconnect engine mounts
Remove engine

VE prep for install:

Clean engine bay
Clean transmission
Flush coolant overflow bottle
Flush radiator
Flush heater core
Flush engine
Remove lower heater hose from firewall.
Connect the DE EGR solenoids back into the harness with no lines connected to them.
Wire in VE IACV-FICD connector on DE engine harness or swap DE FICD to VE IAA unit.
Unwrap harness to get more length out of FICD and AAC wires.
You may need to extend your TPS wires, I wish I had.
Extend E.F.I. harness grounds (intake manifold grounds) or run a jumper wire from the intake manifold to the grounds.
Swap passenger’s side engine mount bracket to VE
Swap front engine mount bracket to VE
Swap DE engine harness to VE
Swap DE A/C compressor bracket to VE
Swap engine temp sensors to new engine
Wire in MSD window switch
Run wire for VVL solenoids
Modify DE distributor by removing lower tab and swap to VE
Swap Ignitor chip and bracket to VE (cut tab off bracket)
Fabricate bracket for DE coil to mount on VE or use one bolt hole on coil to mount.
Swap exhaust header to new engine
Swap DE flywheel and clutch to VE
Install tranny on VE
Regrease starter and install in VE
Swap clutch inspection plate to VE
Swap front throttle cable bracket to VE
Swap wire harness brackets to VE
Widen slot on PS pump bracket to allow movement of PS hard line to clear oil filter.
Install engine

Things to do after engine is in:

Connect hose from the large nipple on the charcoal canister to the small nipple on the VE intake manifold. You’ll need to buy or make an adapter since the canister nipple is ¼” and the intake manifold nipple is 1/8”.
Connect the small hose on the charcoal canister to the small nipple on the intake pipe between the MAF and the TB. Both are 1/8”.
Connect the brake booster hose to the large nipple on the VE intake manifold.
Connect lower heater core hose to coolant nipple just above filter on VE.
DE TPS connector will plug into the top connector of the VE TPS.
Highport intake piping is a bitch to make work with the VE. So either have materials on hand to make new piping, or have a lowport CAI on hand.
Remove topside driver’s side engine to intake manifold bracket. Move throttle cable bracket to that location or fab new bracket.
Wire in MSD 8969 to control VVL solenoids. (Tap green/yellow wire at the ignitor chip for the MSD white wire. Connect solenoid grounds to MSD yellow wire. Ground black wire. Red to keyed on circuit. Gray wire not used.

Some tips:

Heater core and VE heater hose connections are all 3/4". DE has 5/8". So you'll need a 3/4" to 5/8" adapter for the one OEM hose you're reusing to connect near the TB. For the shorter hose just get yourself a new piece of 3/4" heater hose because the OEM hose won't stretch to fit. Also get yourself some new hose clamps because the OEM ones suck, especially when they're old and corroded.

Thread lock or glue the screws that hold the throttle butterfly on the shaft. People have had their engines ruined from those backing out and getting sucked in.

Wire cross reference for DE to VE MAF:

DE--- VE

OR/L = W/R
W = W
OR = OR

First wire is power from the ECCS relay, second is ground through the ECU, third is the voltage output read by the ECU.

I got a few questions about this... I'd appreciate it if you could answer to the best of your ability. I will be doing a swap within the next couple weeks.


Disconnect PAIRC solenoid valve
I'm not familiar with this part... Where abouts is it on the engine?

VE prep for install:

Flush heater core

How do I go about doing this?

Flush engine

Can I stick a hose up to where the water collector bolts on?

Connect the DE EGR solenoids back into the harness with no lines connected to them.

So I just need to have them plugged in, but doing nothing. Example I can just tape them up and call it a day.

Wire in VE IACV-FICD connector on DE engine harness or swap DE FICD to VE IAA unit.

I don't understand what this accomplishes... Why would you wire a VE connector if you're using a DE IAA unit?

Swap passenger’s side engine mount bracket to VE
Swap front engine mount bracket to VE
Swap DE engine harness to VE
Swap DE A/C compressor bracket to VE

If I get motor mounts inserts for a highport DE... will they insert into the VE brackets?

Swap Ignitor chip and bracket to VE (cut tab off bracket)
Is that the printed circuit board in the distributor?

Things to do after engine is in:

Connect hose from the large nipple on the charcoal canister to the small nipple on the VE intake manifold. You’ll need to buy or make an adapter since the canister nipple is ¼” and the intake manifold nipple is 1/8”.

Charcoal canister? :eek2:

Connect the small hose on the charcoal canister to the small nipple on the intake pipe between the MAF and the TB. Both are 1/8”.

Same as above.

Connect lower heater core hose to coolant nipple just above filter on VE.

Oil filter I assume?

Highport intake piping is a bitch to make work with the VE. So either have materials on hand to make new piping, or have a lowport CAI on hand.

So the highport accordian goodness won't work with the lowport?

Some tips:

Heater core and VE heater hose connections are all 3/4". DE has 5/8". So you'll need a 3/4" to 5/8" adapter for the one OEM hose you're reusing to connect near the TB. For the shorter hose just get yourself a new piece of 3/4" heater hose because the OEM hose won't stretch to fit. Also get yourself some new hose clamps because the OEM ones suck, especially when they're old and corroded.


Is this something I can get at Home Depot?

Thanks a bunch man, I really appreciate it.

lol, the more detail people give the more questions we have.
Gotta get your d*ck wet taiden, just start it up and youll soon answer all your own questions ;)
Good job on the very assertive list of what to do rob :)

Heater core and VE heater hose connections are all 3/4". DE has 5/8". So you'll need a 3/4" to 5/8" adapter for the one OEM hose you're reusing to connect near the TB. For the shorter hose just get yourself a new piece of 3/4" heater hose because the OEM hose won't stretch to fit. Also get yourself some new hose clamps because the OEM ones suck, especially when they're old and corroded.



Maybe the low port is different, but my heater hoses were the same size as the VE. I reused one, and made the other since it connected to the other side of the engine.

I got a few questions about this... I'd appreciate it if you could answer to the best of your ability. I will be doing a swap within the next couple weeks.



I'm not familiar with this part... Where abouts is it on the engine?



PAIRC is the valve on the exhaust manifold. Let's fresh air into the exhaust.


How do I go about doing this?
Can I stick a hose up to where the water collector bolts on?


Yes

So I just need to have them plugged in, but doing nothing. Example I can just tape them up and call it a day.

I'm not sure about B13s, but B14s need the solenoid hookec up, but rerouted to not cause a CEL


I don't understand what this accomplishes... Why would you wire a VE connector if you're using a DE IAA unit?

If you are use the DE part, you don't need to rewire anything. The VE part fits better, and the idle screw points the correct way. I had a picture in my gallery, but it's gone.


If I get motor mounts inserts for a highport DE... will they insert into the VE brackets?



Yes, you re use all your DE mounts.


Is that the printed circuit board in the distributor?


No, that is the part on the back right corner on the valve cover


Charcoal canister? :eek2:



Same as above.

The charcoal canister does nothing for performance, why not leave it conected?


Oil filter I assume?


Yes


So the highport accordian goodness won't work with the lowport?


No


Is this something I can get at Home Depot?


Might not be needed. See my other post.

The VE install is not that hard. Other than a few things, it's the same as putting a DE in.

PAIRC is the valve on the exhaust manifold. Let's fresh air into the exhaust.



Yes

I'm not sure about B13s, but B14s need the solenoid hookec up, but rerouted to not cause a CEL


If you are use the DE part, you don't need to rewire anything. The VE part fits better, and the idle screw points the correct way. I had a picture in my gallery, but it's gone.



Yes, you re use all your DE mounts.



No, that is the part on the back right corner on the valve cover



The charcoal canister does nothing for performance, why not leave it conected?



Yes



No



Might not be needed. See my other post.

The VE install is not that hard. Other than a few things, it's the same as putting a DE in.

Alright, thanks a bunch man. I've started pulling things apart, and I'm learning a lot, but having an idea of what I'm going to see helps a bunch. :biggthump

Dammit, I wanted to answer some... :(

great post!!!

I don't understand what this accomplishes... Why would you wire a VE connector if you're using a DE IAA unit?

You can't use the DE IAA unit on the VE, they're entirely different. The VE one has a hard pipe that connects to a hose which connects back to the TB to MAF pipe. On the DE the air rerouting is done some other way, as it does not have that hard pipe nipple on it. But that's all a mute point because I wasn't saying to swap the whole IAA unit, just the FICD itself or cut the DE FICD connector off and solder on the VE FICD connector like I did. You can swap the DE FICD over to the VE IAA unit. I chose not to because my DE IAA unit is brand new and cost me a lot of money, so I wasn't going to render it useless by taking the FICD off.



If I get motor mounts inserts for a highport DE... will they insert into the VE brackets?

My VE didn't have any of the VE mount brackets on it, so it was easy to just bolt my DE ones onto the block.

So the highport accordian goodness won't work with the lowport?

I made it work on mine but just temporarily until I make my own CAI. Some VE's come with the VE MAF to TB piping, so you if your's comes with that then you're in good shape.

Is this something I can get at Home Depot?

You could try but it's a lot easier to just go to the auto parts store and buy a piece of 3/4" heater hose and a 3/4" to 5/8" heater hose adapter. You'll probably spend more for the wrong parts if you try to get them at home depot.

I'll have pictures up once I get my POS computer to allow me to download them from my camera.

great post!!!
I liked it better when it was just one post, and was very concise :rolleyes: But im not helping am i :D

Here's how I mounted my 8969:
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/500/medium/PICT0115.JPG
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/500/medium/PICT0116.JPG

Pic of the FICD plug:
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/500/medium/PICT0120.JPG

Bay shot before I put in the CAI:
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/500/medium/PICT0121.JPG

Bay shot after the CAI:
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/500/medium/PICT0137.JPG

how can i get a hold of andreas miko?

how can i get a hold of andreas miko?

send him a PM

just a few small questions. What was the need for the VE maf?
Are you useing your oem ecu are modified jwt for the maf? Or cn you just wire the maf in and expect it to work correctly?
thanks for any info on this

just a few small questions. What was the need for the VE maf?
Are you useing your oem ecu are modified jwt for the maf? Or cn you just wire the maf in and expect it to work correctly?
thanks for any info on this
VE MAF = larger = more flow = larger room for power compared to stock MAF

you need a new ECU / chipped ecu / SAFC II for it to work right. i heard using the SAFC II to get it to work right, doesn't work all that great.

If you get your engine through Dre (Andreas Miko), he'll take you through the whole thing - you'll have all the VE stuff attached that you'll need, the right maf, you'll know what ecu to get (he may even have some on the shelf), what header to use, how to set up the exhaust, etc. etc. etc., and he'll ALWAYS be on the other end of the phone for you. One suggestion: the guy is absolutely totally honest, but does NOT understand the concept of "bargaining" - he'll set a fair price, just pay it. If you need to price bicker, just go somewhere else, 'cause he won't budge anyway. You'll get everything you expect and more.

If you get your engine through Dre (Andreas Miko), he'll take you through the whole thing - you'll have all the VE stuff attached that you'll need, the right maf, you'll know what ecu to get (he may even have some on the shelf), what header to use, how to set up the exhaust, etc. etc. etc., and he'll ALWAYS be on the other end of the phone for you. One suggestion: the guy is absolutely totally honest, but does NOT understand the concept of "bargaining" - he'll set a fair price, just pay it. If you need to price bicker, just go somewhere else, 'cause he won't budge anyway. You'll get everything you expect and more.

couldn't have said it better myself. let him guide you, he will not lead you astray!

just a few small questions. What was the need for the VE maf?
Are you useing your oem ecu are modified jwt for the maf? Or cn you just wire the maf in and expect it to work correctly?
thanks for any info on this

Didn't need the VE maf but opted for it to allow for future mods.
I'm using a Calumsult ECU that is programmed for the VE MAF. I think the voltage readings for different MAF sensors will vary so in order for the ECU to know what the readings mean, it needs to be programmed for it.

Im just gathering a bit of knowlaged the best i can right now. I am wnting to get a good ve swap done eventually. I have done quite a few det's and such but i am really interested just in case a freind wants a VE done or i decide to do one in a future car. I was farely sure the VE maf would not work on b13 ecm but figured it might.
if i do one i think that jwt can give me a good program for the maf injector cc and compresion thn i geuss it is up to me to wire and triger solinoids at a desired rpm?