OK its late, and I just read a few dozen threads that don't address my symptoms.

My idle was super high, and then normal, and now hunts between 12-1800, and settles around 1800. Idle screw is all the way in. This isn't normal.

I did Base timing, and base idle, TPS, adjusted both allen/hex keys on the throttle body, MAF ground, 02 sensor, vacuum lines from charcoal canister to Im/Intake pipe, pcv valve/IM hose seems tight. Mods are all from beofore the swap, and work fine.

Temp is aok for oil, and coolant. Runs just fine. Just the idle hunts 12-1800 at lights etc. Sometimes the VVL seems stronger than other times. Its Jekyl and Hyde.

Any good suggestions would help. Thanks.

No suggestions? Bummer. I am pretty stumped, but I think its vacuum or intermittend signal somewhere. It doesn't hunt at intial startup, but starts as the temp starts rising at ~120.

I checked plugs after my first tank, and they are good (new 6 series NGK coppers). Will get platinums at the first oil change. ~10k on other oem ignition components. 17mpg. Not good, but that was with a lot of idling/tuning and a lot of vvi'in.

Tried resetting tps yesterday. Signal is perfect. .495 closed, 4.06 open. Pulled it as it idled high, and the revs climbed to ~3000+ so I plugged it back in. Will put conductive grease on the connectors. Dug that up in archives.

Next I'm going back to square 1. IACV/AAC, and associated vacuum lines/wiring. I am just afraid *** removing this to clean it may create more vacuum issues than it adresses.

I know this may be obvious, but your throttle cable isn't too tight is it?

also, how is your flow through you MAF? a lot of turbulence perchance throwing off the reading?

Probably not. I have messed with it so many times while trouble shooting and it sits back on the throttle stop nicely just open a tiny bit to keep it from snagging shut. That was last weeks issue.
Lowport throttle body is on the short list of mods for sure. I'll check it again while I d!ck with the iacv/aac.

Ben-
Somewhere along the line you've gotten the ecu confused - When off, unhook the negative battery cable for about 30 seconds, rehook. That should do it; it needs to re-learn. If that doesn't do it, start it, let it settle to wherever it's idle is (even if 1800); unhook the tps connector. WAIT for at least 15 seconds; it should all of a sudden drop to a low idle (if the IACV is closed it will die unless you've set the throttle butterfly open enough to let it run). Open up the iacv until it will idle at, say, 750 without the tps hooked up, then plug it back in. Should be fine. Tight throttle cable worth checking, but no reason for it to tighten unless it's gotten hung on something, can't imagine what.

Your onto something Jer. I was messing with the throttle cable, and its fine but I backed out the stop nearly a full turn, and that settled it down to 800 and solid. So I shut down and re-adjusted the tps to .495/4.0. Started up, and idled great. Twanged the throttle 3x, pulled tps checked base idle/timing aok dead on 800/15btdc.

Then I restarted it awhile later after trying to raise the coil-overs, and it idled at 15-1800, but not hunting. I did your pull tps trick and it didn't work, but then I shut down restarted and did it again and it settled back down and stayed. I think my tps is bad or the wire is a bit stretched. Maye I'll extend it tomorrow. I seem to be getting good readings from it.

I've never timed it, but it takes a good 15 seconds before the ecu figures out the tps isn't there and responds by dropping the idle. I learned this thru both Miko and coolblackser. Milburn says it's not a bad idea to pull the tps plug every change of season so the ecu has to rethink conditions. If it idles fast with the tps disconnected and the iacv closed, pretty sure there's something mechanical holding it open - either the cable or the throttle stop is too far open. btw, Miko says set tps at .48 closed - but that means CLOSED - not on the stop except enough to keep the butterfly from binding in the passageway, if it does.

Oh - mine does hunt every now and then - usually during early warmup (first 3-5 minutes) if I've started driving a bit and come to a stop and let it idle. It settles down after 5-10 seconds. I just live with it; doesn't seem to be anything wrong, just is.

Ben-
Somewhere along the line you've gotten the ecu confused - When off, unhook the negative battery cable for about 30 seconds, rehook. That should do it; it needs to re-learn.

Ding, ding ding. That did it. I unhooked my battery last night, and came out this morning to go to work, and we idled gentlemen for the first time. Almost an hour of traffic, with no hunting. Solid at 800.

Thanks Jerry. :biggthump

I guess all the messing around made it confused. So if my TPS is at .495 when closed on the stop that would make it .48 closed or more like .50? Having troublewrapping my head around this one.

I think I'm gonna replace the tps screws with hex bolts. The phillips are so close to the firewall they are impossible to grip. Getting worn fast.

I may raise idle up just a bit to reduce shake.

You need to find an "L" (actually an "S" with phillips heads at 45 degrees to each other for tight spots) phillips driver or a small ratchet piece. My ratchet piece, lord knows where it came from, works for most things but a good sharp S phillips is perfect for loosening the tps screws the first time. Don't have to hawg 'em down that hard when you're playing with it, good and snug will do. Don't reef on 'em. The voltage goes up as the butterfly swings toward open, so depending on where you are with the butterfly stop, if you see the throttle mechanism hit the set screw as it closes, we could presume it's a bit open and full closed would be toward .48 rather than .50. If you're gonna be picky, turn the engine off, loosen the set screw and back it out so the throttle is all the way closed. If it binds against its housing, nudge it open a bit with the set screw and set it so it JUST doesn't bind. THEN set your tps at .48, that's CLOSED. When you fire it up IN BASE IDLE MODE, close your iacv, open up the butterfly with the set screw to 750 revs. Take it out of base idle, THEN use the iacv to put idle where you want it. Book never mentions the set screw, but it's there for a reason. I tried to set idle up higher with the set screw and the ecu got confused, so that's a no-no.

ps, forgot to mention, being's your in Seattle, check for moss in the throttle body, might be restricting airflow - - - :rofl: