ES mount inserts have been waiting for over a year and are now been put is use.

I am considering inserting only the torque positions mount but since a passenger-side mount was available tried to "prepare" it in any case.

Simple questions.

1. It seems obvious that after removing the old insulating material I must cut the metallic insert and take it out of the aluminum case. Otherwise there is no way the insert will go in there. How do I go about cutting/removing the damn thing?
http://www.reporter.gr/images/0test/image1.jpg

2. What is the exact orientation of the insert relative to the case. Am I correct I should place it as shown on the next image so it will go in OK?
http://www.reporter.gr/images/0test/image6.jpg

3. Finally, most of the people that have done the mode said: "Lubricate, lubricate, lubricate with 'PVC friendly' lubricant".
Well, except the ES grease (which is in short supply around here), is there any other lub yu can suggest?

4. Should we actually use grease to let the insert slide in the case? And if it is OK with this one, what about remaining inserts like the dogbone which is much easier to slide in? I am contemplating trying to use soap-water so that, when the water evaporates, it will stay fixed on its place.

TIA

Chris
1992 Sunny 2.0GTi

I have never worked with the ES inserts nor have I had a set in my hands to look at, but I think your going at it all wrong.

The ES inserts are to be inserted into the factory motor mounts. There should be no reason to remove any of the old mounts materials. The ES inserts are adding more strength and support to the factory motor mounts, not replacing them.

From the looks of it, you actually cut out the center mount material. I don't think that was supposed to be done. :eek:

From Energy Suspensions Website:
Note the red insert grooves fit around the O.E.M. black rubber mounts. They're engineered to handle additional torque and horsepower you may have added to your vehicle AND ADDITIONALLY will restore worn or torn ones.


More info here:

http://www.energysuspension.com/prod3.html

Thanks Brandon but ths one does.
Passeenger side mount is a replacement for the factory (front buffer also consists of repalcement parts. The rest are add-on inserts.

PS. For anyone who has actually performed surgery on passenger mount: how did the liquid inside the mount actually look? I thought it would be a grease-like substance but mine was like used thin motor oil. Is this how it looks?

Chris

i have done this and it is not fun. You will need a hydraulic press to remove the inner metallic sleeve. Take it to profeesional or order a used second just in case you crack the mount(i know because it happened). Then press in the ES mount. Also as far as the orientation of the mount the slot part of the mount(the thinner part of the mount is at 90 degree angle to the bolt holes so you can bolt the mount back to the engine if it is in the wrong position you won't get the bolts in or you will strip the bolts or the holes. Good luck:D

to remove the inner metallic ring, i placed the mount in a big table clamp and used a hacksaw to cut the inner metal band make sure that you do not end up cutting the aluminum casing (have someone look how deep you are getting into the metal band), after you completely cut the metallic casing/band, about 1 inch away from your first cut make another parallel cut w/ the hacksaw, once complete. lay the mount flat on it's side then chisel out the metallic casing in the area between where you made the cuts w/ the hacksaw, the ring should collapse into itself and pop out of the aluminum motor mount casing.

this is what i had to do to insert the Jim Wolf Solid Mounts.

Tevs

What they said. :D

I went the hydraulic press method to remove the inner metal ring. It took 5 minutes and $10 at a local machine shop. This, after wrestling with it for about 2 hours. Money well spent if you ask me.

The new ES mount will go in MUCH easier if you remove the metal bushing in the center before you install it. Lube it up with White Lithium Grease (it's gooey stuff...you've been warned) and slide/wrestle it in there.

Then, pop that metal bushing in the center.

Good luck!

Originally posted by camoser
Take it to profeesional or order a used second just in case you crack the mount(i know because it happened).

Camoser,
did it break while ont he press? This is one of the reasons I am contemplating doing it the hard-hacksaw way. Motor mount cases are not really abundant and I already have one extra but this is it!


Then press in the ES mount. Also as far as the orientation of the mount the slot part of the mount(the thinner part of the mount is at 90 degree angle to the bolt holes so you can bolt the mount back to the engine if it is in the wrong position you won't get the bolts in or you will strip the bolts or the holes. Good luck:D
OK, I am not very good in understanding without visual representation. Please look at the 2nd picture I have above. Is this the correct orientation? Please comment relative to the picture, something like "it is OK" or " rotate the insert 90degrees clockwise" or whatever.

Chris

Originally posted by Sunny
to remove the inner metallic ring, i placed the mount in a big table clamp and used a hacksaw to cut the inner metal band make sure that you do not end up cutting the aluminum casing (have someone look how deep you are getting into the metal band), after you completely cut the metallic casing/band, about 1 inch away from your first cut make another parallel cut w/ the hacksaw, once complete. lay the mount flat on it's side then chisel out the metallic casing in the area between where you made the cuts w/ the hacksaw, the ring should collapse into itself and pop out of the aluminum motor mount casing.
Tevs
Thank you Tevs. If you have the process still in your mind I need a detail: which of the drawings in the following image best represents the "fitting" of the inner sleeve on the alluminum case?

http://www.reporter.gr/images/0test/mount01.jpg

What I tried to show is a "cut" of the mount+slleve as they are connected (as if I cut the entire mount with a plane parallel to the center screw).
If the bottom one is the correct I am in lack since cutting is much easier. If it is the top (i.e. the case also has the internal stepping lip that is visible in the 1st picture of my original post) then cutting will be much more difficult.
Finally, one more question. 1st picture of original post. The fat horizontal protrusion visible at the top of the metallic sleeve. Is it all part of the sleeve or is there some similar formation on the case under it?
I am asking because I noticed on the outside of the case a hole that seems to be filled with some kind of sealant/glue. If there is nothing under it and it leads to the inner side of the sleeve, I am thinking of cutting on one side of the protrusion and then hammering through the hole.
http://www.reporter.gr/images/0test/image2.jpg


Thanks

Chris
1992 Sunny 2.0GTi

Originally posted by SERprise In WV
I went the hydraulic press method to remove the inner metal ring. It took 5 minutes and $10 at a local machine shop. This, after wrestling with it for about 2 hours. Money well spent if you ask me.

Greg, I have no problem going to a hyd-press, I can even do it for free. However, one person already mentioned a cracked case (in all probability during a hydraulic press session) and I would never have any "expert" press on something unless I know what is below it! This is the reason for the "agonizing" questions. If the alluminum case also has an internal lip then I would rather do it the "hard-way".


The new ES mount will go in MUCH easier if you remove the metal bushing in the center before you install it. Lube it up with White Lithium Grease (it's gooey stuff...you've been warned) and slide/wrestle it in there.

Then, pop that metal bushing in the center.

Good luck!
Now, this is info worth the trouble of posting in the forum. Although obvious, I had the insertion process laid out in my mind and the bushing was always inserted! Much appreciated.

Chris
1992 Sunny 2.0GTi

[QUOTE]Originally posted by hpro123
[B]
Camoser,
did it break while ont he press? This is one of the reasons I am contemplating doing it the hard-hacksaw way. Motor mount cases are not really abundant and I already have one extra but this is it!



I broke it myself in a hydraulic press the large socket i used to press out the ring slipped and the press broke the outer mount. Take it to a professional. cost me about ten bucks
As far as cases if you do break it mine just cracked so i just installed and ordered a a used one from felton auto parts for about 50 bucks.

OK, I am not very good in understanding without visual representation. Please look at the 2nd picture I have above. Is this the correct orientation? Please comment relative to the picture, something like "it is OK" or " rotate the insert 90degrees clockwise" or whatever.



rotate it about 90 degrees clockwise so when you install it you can get the socket and extension to bolt it down.

when i pressed mine out, i cut a circle out of a piece of lumber that was exactly the size of the metal ring, so it would press the whole thing out in one shot. i have no idea why you cut the centre section out, but i gues its tool late now. alos, I heated the whole assembly up with a propane torch, that metal ring does not want to slide at all and heat is the only thing that will make it go. even if you dont line the new mount properly with the grrove in the right way (I realized the proper oreintation after i pressed it in :) ) you can just use a grinder to make your own groove to gain access to the bolt

Thanks FastNX. One more worthy tip in your post.

Chris

PS. As for the cutting the internal... what can I say? All the do-it-yourself people suggested it as Step 1.