http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/5368/swaybaridea5ky.jpg

So this is my idea for a super budget swaybar upgrade for the rear of my P10.

The principle is simple, just weld and triangulate the corners with heavy gauge steel to fully stiffen and reduce flex in the bar and increase over all ridgidity.


ANyone have input on this ?

Let me put it this way...


there are people on here who SWEAR by a cutoff hockeystick secured with duct-tape as the entire rear swaybar...


so with that being said apparently anything goes!:rofl:


edit: yes there ARE pics, some-one will post them i know it.

Hmmm this sounds intersting. Also a good idea.

Keep me honest!


http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/641/IMGP0421.jpg

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Let me put it this way...


there are people on here who SWEAR by a cutoff hockeystick secured with duct-tape as the entire rear swaybar...


so with that being said apparently anything goes!:rofl:


edit: yes there ARE pics, some-one will post them i know it.

:confused:

Okay.....

This seems slightly less ghetto than a wood and adhesive setup.

Keep me honest!


http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/641/IMGP0421.jpg

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:


Thats a hockey stick shaft?

:rofl:

now thats just ludacris !:tongue: :rofl:

Nah, the sway bar works in torsion, you need to increase it's torsional ridgidity or shorten the lever arms to alter it.

You are reducing the working part of the torsion bar which will stiffen it a little, but welding onto it is gonna require heat treatment afterwards...

It sounds like you're confusing swaybar with strut tower brace, and I don't know what hockey sticks cost, but I'd imagine that a stick of square tube steel is cheaper and more rigid.

Mark is right though, adding those braces won't affect the torsional regidity of your swaybar. If you want to make your OEM swaybar more effective change the point at which the endlink attaches to the bar, move it rearward so it's attaching closer to the pivot point. You could fab something to do this pretty easily.

It sounds like you're confusing swaybar with strut tower brace, and I don't know what hockey sticks cost, but I'd imagine that a stick of square tube steel is cheaper and more rigid.

Mark is right though, adding those braces won't affect the torsional regidity of your swaybar. If you want to make your OEM swaybar more effective change the point at which the endlink attaches to the bar, move it rearward so it's attaching closer to the pivot point. You could fab something to do this pretty easily.



Thanks for your educated replies guys. Much appreciated.

Now, I understand the concept you are explaining regarding having new "links" to allow adjustment rearward. I believe I have seen these pieces on a few race spec cars last year at the June Sprints @ Road America. I believe I saw a few cars that also had crescent shaped plates which were fabbed as endlinks and used a solid straight beam as the swaybar which was able to adjust rear-wards and upwards slightly on the crescent plates.... I hope that explination was somewhat comprehendable :tongue: I wish I could find pics of what I am talking about.

The construction and design of them was very straightforward and makes me believe that it could be easily Machined for a relatively low cost... Would this type of setup be beneficial on the IRS of the P10?

If you check my thread on G20.net I explained what I'm gonna do ;)

"more custom parts" was the title iirc and it's in the suspension section...

If you check my thread on G20.net I explained what I'm gonna do ;)

"more custom parts" was the title iirc and it's in the suspension section...
:biggthump

Thanks

ive seen otherways...like taking another stock sway bar and hose clamping it in several places to the original one