In order to make my turbo install a *bit* easier, I decided to finally use the battery relocation kit that's been taking up space in my garage for a couple years now. This will make the area around the MAF/intercooler pipes much less congested, and give me one less thing to worry about.
(Much thanks to Chris Storer (MauiBlueGride) and Serban Gavrilescu (Fast91SER) for their suggestions on relocating my battery. :D )

http://www.sr20deforum.com/gregturbo/fuseblk.jpg
It all begins with this fuse connector I obtained from the local thumpin' stereo shop. It has a 250-amp fuse in it should something go very, very wrong.

http://www.sr20deforum.com/gregturbo/connector1.jpg
I cut the end off the existing positive cable of the battery, and installed a brass ring terminal on the end (plus on the end of the 'new' cable that goes to the trunk). I also cut the old battery terminal in half with my Dremel, and re-attached it before the brass ring terminal. This way, the fused link thing that attaches to the positive terminal could be retained. That brass ring terminal attached to one side of the fuse block (left).
The 'new' battery cable (going to the trunk) attaches on the right, using another brass ring terminal crimped on to the cable.

http://www.sr20deforum.com/gregturbo/msdbox1.jpg
Now, instead of that big 'ol honkin' battery taking up space, I now have a place to put my MSD Digital 6 box and the battery fuse connector. Plus, I have tons more room to move the MAF around, as well as bring in the intercooler piping up through the fenderwell. :)

http://www.sr20deforum.com/gregturbo/ground.jpg
The red positive battery cable runs through the firewall, along the center console, under the back seat, and into the trunk. You can see where I bolted the new battery ground cable to...the old set of threads for the spare tire holder. I don't carry a spare, as I usually have my Nitto DRs in the back seat. So, I ground off the paint around those threads (for a good connection), and used a 12mm bolt to secure the end of the ground cable down (with a crimped on ring connector).

http://www.sr20deforum.com/gregturbo/battery1.jpg
Voila'! Instant battery relocation. The Summit Racing kit includes this box and the j-bolts to hold the battery down. I used the existing holes from where my nitrous bottle brackets *used* to be to run the j-bolts through to the underside of the car.
I took this pic after dark....the gray 'carpet' stuff will be replaced in a more orderly fashion tomorrow, don't worry.

And there you go. That's how I relocated the battery in about 1.5 hours this evening. I hooked everything up and she works like a charm! It was much easier than I thought it would be. Again, mucho thanks go out to Chris Storer and Serban Gavrilescu for their help via PM. :D

EDIT: On the advice of counsel (actually, it was BlackB13), I will be swapping out the 250amp fuse for an 80amp fuse ASAP. He can tell you why better than I can. Thanks for the tip, BlackB13! :D
SECOND EDIT: An 80-amp fuse will pop on the first turn of the key. For now, the 250 amp fuse is back in there.

Originally posted by SERprise In WV
EDIT: On the advice of counsel (actually, it was BlackB13), I will be swapping out the 250amp fuse for an 80amp fuse ASAP. He can tell you why better than I can. Thanks for the tip, BlackB13! :D

Could that be because the stock fusable link for the battery is a 75amp fuse? And also, while you are waiting for the 250 amp fuse to blow, your car is already extra crispy, but you knew al this right Greg ;)

Yeah, 250 amp fuse = Kentucky Fried SE-R :eek:

Guys, I'll be the first one to admit I know very little about wiring and fuses. It took me 2 years to overcome whatever fear I had of trunk-mounting the battery. Nitrous doesn't faze me.....turbos don't either....neither does the inside of a small-block Chevy :eek:

But wiring and fuses do.

So, shoot me. :D

-GP-

I would put a fuse close to the battery. What if a short developes between the battery and your fuse, thats a lot of wire in between. When I did my relocation in the SE-R I used a 200 amp circuit breaker right next to the battery box. Another good place for the ground is on the threaded hole for the nonfunctioning flip down seat mount right behind the cushion.

Matt Ostlund
93NX
91SE-R DET

The whole reason for the 250amp fuse is to prevent a short in the wiring, nothing else..... I've blown 200+ amp fuses running just amplifiers before, not to mention the ocassional woops while torqing down the fuse block nuts... If you ground the power wire to the frame, they'll blow quickly, thats what they are designed to do. Now if you have a problem elsewhere, say the alternator took a crap some wierd way then that would be where your 75 amp fuse off the factory harness would save the day.

Chris

PPI A1200.2 - two 80 amp fuses in 1 amp
Two PPI A1200.2's, + 2 - 15" Cerwin Vega Strokers = LOUD + Fuse blowing.....

I was just joking with you Greg. It took a few mistakes for me to learn DC.

what gauge wire did you use for the battery relocation ? I am interested in doing this as well. thank you,

Matt--
Good idea. I have another fuseblock in my possession, and was thinking of adding it to the 'back' part of the battery wiring. Good to hear somebody else was thinking that, too. :)

Art--
I'm using 2AWG wire. I bought the relo kit from Summit Racing www.summitracing.com for (IIRC) about $70 or so. It comes with everything you need, not including the fuse blocks, which I bought from the local wings/stickers/stereo shop. I also bought some brass ring terminals at AutoZone, as the Summit kit only came with two. They run about $2 per set.

:D

-GP-

Greg,

How much was that fuse block? I have been running all over locally looking for a big enough fuse block and when I finally found one I almose died of sticker shock :( I don't want to pay 2/3 of what I paid for my battery for a FUSE.

I'd like to think there are better deals out there :)

Paul

Paul--

I honestly cannot remember. I purchased the fuseblocks about 2 years ago from the local thumpin' stereo/stickers/wings/rims/tint shop in town. I just cannot remember the price. Sorry.

-GP-

Haha I can barely remember yesterday. :D No problem.

No pics?

www.turbochargedse-r.com and check out Turbo Install link at bottom. Somewhere around day 5 or so.

You da man. Thanks.

i would get a breaker. this is about the same price the first time, and if you pop it, it doesnt cost you anything because youre not replacing fuses. All you have to do is reset it, and youre done. 80A fuses are generally wafer fuses, which get expensive.

i use a breaker on mine, and if youre anything like me, you would have saved a whole ton of money (who needs to unplug the negative? shit :D)

What size breaker are you using Steve? I have a 140amp sitting around....

weenie 80A. if i crank it too long, it pops. hehe :D

the 140A would be perfect.

i went to bestbuy and the guy told me all a starter draws is 30A, thats what they use for their remote starter installs :rolleyes:

I coudnt find one the weekend i was putting it together so i omitted the breaker

i went to bestbuy and the guy told me all a starter draws is 30A, thats what they use for their remote starter installs :rolleyes:

I coudnt find one the weekend i was putting it together so i omitted the breaker

yeah, the starter isnt the only thing though. the ignition draws a lot of power too, as do lights, fuel injectors, ECU, etc.

all this will be drawn through the breaker, a 30A will pop every time you hit the starter.

remember, also, as heat increases (such as on an especially long start) resistance increases, increasing the load on the battery.