I've just had my first motorsports failure of the year. My driver side axle is done. I had been hearing a clunking noise (Ralph, remember that clunk you heard while testing my car?) for a while now. Figured it was a usual noise associated with GC and owning a modified car that has been driven hard. Well, while changing pads tonight I noticed a brown grease on the control arm and located a tear on the inner boot. While futzing with it, I noticed I could move the axle in and out a few mm. The other side is nice and tight. And the noise it makes sounds suspisiously similar to the one I'm hearing while driving.

So.

How much and how hard? Anyone got good direction on how to do this? I have air tools so the hub *should* be easy to get off.

I've never done it, but Joe Henderson took the axle off my racecar last year at one of the NASA races at Summit Point (axle broke on his car, my car was sitting doing nothing 20 miles away -- instant parts car). All he used was simple hand tools. I think you can get away without having to seperate the lower control arm, but it's a PITA.

Edit: Remanufactured axles are fairly cheap. Around $75 + core charge.

Am i going to lose all my brand new and expensive MT-90 when I do this?

Do re-manned axles come with new boots, or are they extra?

Damn...this sucks. It did scare the hell out of me when I heard it. I have never had an inner boot rip on me before, its rare for it to happen comparred to the outer. (less flexing) On the outer when its ripped, when you turn it all the way one direction or the other you hear a clicking sound but on yours I never did hear that. I guess the the inner boot is different. I have a brand new inner boot for the GA16DE. I'm not sure if its the same part. My guess is no but if its the same then I'll give it to you. I'll save you some money when ever I can. As far as the replacement, you will have to drop the entire half shaft. If it was me I check around some shops first. I've never dropped a half-shaft before but I know its a PITA. As far as price, I can't remember how much it was for my XE 2 years ago but, call this place. "Last Chance Garage" in Raleigh, ask for Doug (the owner) He is a friend of my fathers. (Gary Mitchell) I would hope he would cut you a deal but check around first just to make sure. If you plan on tackling this on your own and want an extra hand let me know. Like I said, never done it but I'm willing to try and help. I've got a Chilton manual.

Let me know.

-Ralph

Originally posted by MaddMatt
Am i going to lose all my brand new and expensive MT-90 when I do this?

Yes, you will have to drain the tranny fluid in order to remove the axle. You could, however, always save it and recycle it. Just pour it through a fine mesh to remove any particles.


Do re-manned axles come with new boots, or are they extra?

I just ordered a remaned axle from www.raxles.com. I believe the cost was about $250 including shipping and the $80 core charge. I'll check the receipt tonight. Yes, new boots were included.

Steve

I believe the cost was about $250 including shipping and the $80 core charge.

Oh, damn that's more than I can spend right now....

I have changed axles, and never lost any fluid. First off, AutoZone sells the axles for $80 plus $55 core, lifetime warranty. Second, loose the 2 lower strut bolts, unclip the brake line from the strut, and push the hub assembly out and toward the back of the car. This is after you loosen the 32mm axle nut. If you only raise the driver's side, the fluid will run to the passenger side, and none will come out. Kevin Hart about fell over when I changed the axle in my '91 right after I bought it. I used the same method as before, and I was done in less than 15 minutes from the time the car left the ground to the time it was back on the ground. The other way is to loose the balljoint, but if you have a ST, or anyother sway bar than stock, the bar will keep the control arm from hanging down enough to get the axle out. Matt, let me know if you have any questions about this.

Now THAT sounds more like something my current financial situation can handle.

Eric, I'll PM you with questions if I have any. Thanks for the info. I'll most likely get to it next week since I'm sure it'll be an order item and I'll be at CMP thins weekend.

Everytime I've had to get one, the driver's side is in stock. The passenger side is a different story. AutoZone doesn't sell that one, or they just started to. Advance sells both. I have a place intown that rebuilds them for the same price, but the car has to be down for a day or two.

Well, I was about to post what Eric said, but he took it from me. The only thing I have to add is when you remove the brake caliper(if its easier to do this way), hang it from a coathanger or a length of wire to keep the weioght off your line. Oh yea, the 32mm axle nut he spoke of should be avaliable for rent at the AutoZone, so pick it up when you go get your new axle.
Josh

Napa sells them too with a lifetime warranty and new boots and what not. Its nice to get the warranty *** then you can rip, snap, and destroy without worries :D

I don't ever remove or unbolt the caliper. I leave it in place, and just move the whole thing out of the way. You may need to move the brake line to the other side of the strut so you don't break it. Just make sure to put it back on the correct side when done.

Thanks to Eric for all the help. Bought a new (remanned) axle from Car Quest for $70. Just installed it and it works good. All is nice and tight.

I think the driveline lash I have been experiencing for a while was because of this axle going bad. I'll let you know (if anyone cares)

Matt

Glad to hear you got it fixed and back together.