well, it was time consuming, about 3 hours or so, but i got it done. It was actually pretty easy, just took a bit of time and only cost about $65. I really dont feel a difference, but It sure makes a lot more room in the ol engine compartment, now to construct a cold air system and im set...... for now.

Got any pictures?

How did you route the battery cable? I can't find a grommet large enough to fit the 2ga. cable I'm using.

There is a rubber boot above and to the left of the clutch pedal with some cable-idge going into it. If you cut a slit into it with a utility knife you can get a 2 gauge cable through. The cable will go behind the right-front qtr panel and you will find it in the hole of the engine bay behind where your battery is now.

I did mine a couple months ago for about the same price, and maybe 4 hours. I have a psuedo CAI thing with a JWT pop in the engine bay and an air scoop built into the skid plate going on right now. I am sort of working on a box for a ram air. I haven't started that yet really. I am caught in the decision between sheet metal or plastics for it.

I am also working on my own version of "Ram Air". I pulled the foglights (one didnt work, they weigh about 15 lbs, and i need a source of air!!). Do you think it would be OK to cut about a 2 inch hole in that metal piece behind the foglight in order to run a hose through there? P.S. I am running a hotshot cold-air

I went through a grommet on the passenger side, and ran the wire down under the carpet to the trunk. I had bought the 15' of black cable for the ground, but i was lazy and didnt want to run more cable, so i tried grounding it to a bolt in the trunk first. I scraped off some paint and used a pretty damn big washer and it worked like a charm, so i sold the spare 13' to my bro for his civic. I ended up using all 17' of positive cable, plus the 80 amp fuse. I thought i read that somebody picked up the cable for about 75 cents a foot, but mine was $2 a foot!! I want to run a make shift cold air down into the hole of the engine compartment, right in front of the tranny. I'll try to get some pics up soon.

I paid about 80 cents a foot from a welding supply shop. I used 2 gauge and a 200 amp circuit breaker placed right next to the battery. I hope you guys used a sealed and vented box like the moroso. I did the relocation on the classic but I'm leery of doing it on the NX even with a good box. I would hate to be burned up by acid or blown up in a hydrogen explosion.

Matt
93NX looks nice
91SE-R DET goes nice

I did the relocation on the classic but I'm leery of doing it on the NX even with a good box. I would hate to be burned up by acid or blown up in a hydrogen explosion.
So use a "Dry Cell" battery, like Dyna-Batt (http://www.performancedistributors.com/batteries.htm) or an Optima battery.

Do you think it would be OK to cut about a 2 inch hole in that metal piece behind the foglight in order to run a hose through there? P.S. I am running a hotshot cold-air

If you're using a CAI, why bother?

whay make an air source for the CAI? If you look at the area where the filter resides, there is no air source to it. Als oI have heard of a loss of top end power with the CAI, due to lack of airflow to the filter. If it had a good shot of air i'm sure *** would recover the power. There is a guy with a white NX with an MS designs air dam which directs air to the filter and he said he noticed a top end power increase with the air dam. It wont hurt anyway.

If you look at the area where the filter resides, there is no air source to it.
No air source?:confused:
The area where the filter sits isn't air tight!
And CAIs don't need direct airflow inorder to work.
CAIs make HP by resonance effect, not by having air flowing directly over the filter.

Als oI have heard of a loss of top end power with the CAI, due to lack of airflow to the filter.
You heard. But do you know for sure? Can you prove that?

If it had a good shot of air i'm sure *** would recover the power.
And how would you be able to prove that you "recovered" any HP? SOTP is just guessing.

There is a guy with a white NX
That would be "Pretty White".

he said he noticed a top end power increase with the air dam.
More SOTP guessing.

Look, if you want more air to flow towards your CAI's air filter, just remove your OEM fog lights.
It'll open up a nice 1/4" gap that will allow air to reach the CAI's filter without having to cut any metal.

I understand how CAI's work, and i realize that giving it a staight shot of air will not be some sort of power secret, but i do not think it would hurt either. I do not see any disadvanteges to what i am doing so i will proceed. So what if the experiences of people are not confirmed experiences, that does not mean that they are useless, what they have to say is more than i knw considering my CAI is still being shipped

Hey Sub it's April! Time for the dyno test of the cold air setup? We have all been waiting. Time to prove it on the NX.

I would love to see dyno results including:

1. POP charger
2. CAI foglight in
3. CAI foglight out

I always run with my foglight out after the Englishtown dyno day last year where I layed down a blistering SAE HP of 123.4 and SAE Torque 112.3 With Header, CAI, 4 pulley set, Borla exhaust, and lightened factory flywheel. I wish I would have taken it out between runs to see if it actually made a difference.

Matt

Hey Sub it's April! Time for the dyno test of the cold air setup? We have all been waiting. Time to prove it on the NX.
Yep! I got my G5 HotShot header and Dyno Day #7 is on May 18th. So looks like I'll have to put this all to rest.

I would love to see dyno results including:

1. POP charger
2. CAI foglight in
3. CAI foglight out

1. That can be done.
2. I'm not about to put my fog light back in.
3. How are we gonna be able to simulate highway airflow over the CAI?

I always run with my foglight out after the Englishtown dyno day last year where I layed down a blistering SAE HP of 123.4 and SAE Torque 112.3 With Header, CAI, 4 pulley set, Borla exhaust, and lightened factory flywheel.

WTF!:confused:
Houston, we have a problem!
:confused:

Are those numbers correct?
A stock SE-R can hit those numbers.

how could you see dyno results with or without a fog light in the car????? would you just dump a big fan creating 60-75 mph of wind into the little slot??????????????/

Originally posted by paNX2K&SE-R
I always run with my foglight out after the Englishtown dyno day last year where I layed down a blistering SAE HP of 123.4 and SAE Torque 112.3 With Header, CAI, 4 pulley set, Borla exhaust, and lightened factory flywheel. I wish I would have taken it out between runs to see if it actually made a difference.


Good god, that sounds like there's something wrong with your engine, not a result of the CAI not doing it's job! Granted, my dyno numbers were on a different dynojet, different day, and different weather patterns, but my NX pulled 137hp and 128lb/ft of torque with a JWT POP and ECU, Borla muffler, and Fidanza flywheel. The car made 123hp and 119lb/ft of torque on the same dyno a year earlier when it was completely stock.

I layed down a blistering SAE HP of 123.4 and SAE Torque 112.3 With Header, CAI, 4 pulley set, Borla exhaust, and lightened factory flywheel.

I have a couple of questions:

1. Your car IS an NX2000?

2. What gear was your car Dyno'd in?

Originally posted by Subculture

So use a "Dry Cell" battery, like Dyna-Batt (http://www.performancedistributors.com/batteries.htm) or an Optima battery.

Actually the Optima isn't dry cell, but it is sealed. You can also use the Miata battery from WestCo. That's what I'm using, it is sealed.

You can also use the Miata battery from WestCo. That's what I'm using, it is sealed.
How much does the Westco battery weigh?
How much does it cost?

Originally posted by Subculture

How much does the Westco battery weigh?
How much does it cost?

http://www.westcobattery.com/pages/products.asp?id=11

25lbs.
$84.95