I've got a 1996 sr20 motor in my garage. I plan on rebuilding it *slightly* better than stock. Thinking about a simple clean-up of the head, port-match, and 3 angle-valve job. 300zx NA pistons milled so they are 10:1. Then pretty much just throwing in new bearings and maybe a 91 intake cam.

Trying to keep costs to a minimum, would this be a good set-up? Anything else I need to replace or to fix up?

Note: This motor was pulled because I burnt 2 valves on the #4 cylinder (zero compression!). Other than that, this motor ran really strong. It had 114,000 miles on it when it left the car.


Thanks in advance,
-Bryan

If you're looking for a budget build up, look no further than the Nissan Motorsport catalog. Buy a set of factory flat top pistons which are 10:1 compression. Have them Swaintech gold coated to reject heat for the piston crown. It dissapates heat more evenly, reduces the threat of detonation, and keeps heat out of the body of the pistons allowing you to run a closer tolerance for clearance. Figure about $500 for the coated pistons, wrist pins and rings. I would recommend going to the next grade (size) of piston by overboring and honing the block with a torque plate. It would prevent any cylinder distortion that could present blow by problems.
Use your factory rods and have the machine shop replace all of your bearings. While it's out, replace the waterpump, front and rear seals, and timing chain. All in all, a BUDGET shortblock with assembly should cost in the ball park of $1800.
I looked at what I spent on my shortblock alone and I still haven't got over it.

I forgot to talk about the head. I'll be honest with you. When it comes to your head, my opinion is that it's a all or nothing affair. I'll explain.
To do a valve job, it costs in the neighborhood of $600. That is removing the valves and replacing the valve guides and seals. The machinist also does a three or five angle valve job and matches the same angles to the valve seat. Then figure if you want any port matching work on both intake and exhaust sides, I'd guess it would be around $300-400 to port match and blend.
So, for about $1000 you have yourself a decent head.
Now, let's look at what you get for about $1400-1500. A fully assembled DPR stage 3 head! I think at that point, it is worth it to spend an extra $500 for a top notch head. Don't you?

Complete assembled head? What are the different stages and prices? What's all included. It sounds like a hell of a good deal. Please let us know all the info you know. I would be willing to spend the loot.
Thanks.

sounds like it would be cheaper just to get another sr20de to me

"sounds like it would be cheaper just to get another sr20de to me"

I hate to say the old cliche'...
Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?

Believe me, I'm not trying to be a dick at all, but if you want to go fast AND have a higher degree of reliability, you must invest in your engine. I know from experience. I had to wait a long time before I could build a short block. It is very expensive. An assembled short block alone can cost easily upwards of $4-5000. Factor in pistons, coatings, rods, boring, honing, oil squirters, decking, bearings, align honing crank journals, micropolishing journals, cyro treating parts, and many other machining steps plus the LABOR.

A fully built head could easily cost $6000.

Titanium retainers $600
Valve springs $600
Stainless steel valves (16) $400
JUN bronze valve guides $300
JWT C1 camshafts $560
JWT camgears $140
DPR Stage VI head $2500
HKS head gasket $300
ARP head studs $270

Now, consider putting everything together for a grand total over $10,000 for a top notch professional built engine. This would be the extreme. Remember, this is just the engine, not the accessories, pullies, TB, header, intake manifold, etc. A fully assembled engine with all accessories can cost over $15 grand. Think about it.

I should've bought APEXSER's engine and saved myself a couple thousand bucks. It was an absolute steal at $4500. (Shameless plug)

I should've bought APEXSER's engine and saved myself a couple thousand bucks. It was an absolute steal at $4500. (Shameless plug) [/B][/QUOTE]
yeah but it really was a steal at 4500 bucks, i wish i had that kinda money to spend on a motor right now or when he was selling it.
Sean

To Nitrous_50, I wasn't trying to scare you at all but to just give you a heads up of what building an engine entails. It is not cheap. You must expect the unexpected. It is very difficult to cut corners while rebuilding an engine for performance purposes. After all, you want an engine that can handle a 100-140 of NOS or live long with 25lbs of boost. I was lucky because I was able to build a short block while my car was still running. In most cases, one has to build their engine out of necessity. I just want you to invest your money wisely. If you want to do a budget build up, do it. Just educate yourself, ask questions, and listen. I am still learning at my old age. For about $2000, you can have a very dependable engine top to bottom. If you want to get a little more crazy, the sky's the limit.
Ben B., Tony Q, Zak N., JGY, Mike K. and many others including myself have had their engine built professionally and I bet that we all have some different advise we can offer you. Holler* if you need help.

Rob

*(if you can hear me)

Correct me if i'm wrong (ok sometimes i'm wrong) but isn't the sr20de reliable for at least 300hp with stock internals? I guess it's how you get that 300 eh.

Holy cow! :) No replies, then BAM!! mucho replies. LOL!!

Thank you everyone for your responses (especially big boost!). This motor will only be an NA motor, no boost, no nitrous, and no 1/4 mile monster. I know getting another used motor, or primera will be alot cheaper. But for the little extra I'm spending on rebuilding, I'm getting a 100% new motor. I plan on doing more and more roadracing with my car, so going this route to me is more insurance when I'm out on the track racing hard. Plus it will be completely balanced, have a *slightly* better head, and have higher compression.

Here is my finalized plans for the motor:
-300zx NA pistons 11:1 com
pression 1mm overbore (yes, I will be using a torque plate) :) $43.00 EA.

-recondition the head, including new valve springs, 3 angle valve grind, port-match the intake manifold with the head. should come out to about $500-550 total

-balance pistons, rods, and crank. $120

-91 intake cam. Later on adding S3 cams when I pass emission testing this fall.

-JWT 11:1 ecu tuning. $100

I have a friend who is a mechanic, we're going to assemble the motor, check for clearances, etc. I'm looking at a ballpark of about $1600 total for machine work and internal parts. This motor won't be a VVL for sure! ;) But it should be fun and reasonably quick.

-Bryan