:confused: Yeah, just wondering what the level of difficulty swaping an sr20 crank out and putting a new one in? One resource says it's a bolt-on procedure out and in, nothing else to it? One day's work? No special tools then I take it? Thanks for everybody's advice.:biggthump

Is the motor in or out of the car?????????????
Hopefully it is out of the car. Either way just make sure you get the right bearings and something good like lubriplate for lubrication at startup!

Motor is out of the car and right bearings? I have NEVER done a crank swap before so thats why I was so iffy bout doing this. How hard are the bearings to do? Meanwhile I"ll search and see what turns up.

Okay, so rod or crank bearings? How delicate of a job is this?

If you have the right bearings, it's just a drop it, torque it, and watch it go operation.

I remember something about plastigauge, the service manual would tell you about it. It's this thing plastic wire that you smash inbetween things then you measure it and it'll tell you the clearance.

So basically after I buy the right bearings it's a bolt-on operation? Sounds reasonable enough. Plastigauge? It's like a plastic ruler I take it eh? I have access to the FSM, following its intructions and I should be a-ok? If all I need is a plasigauge and bearings then thanks everybody! But one other thing, is it rod bearings? Thanks again everybody.

check out the bearings and if there is little or no copper show then just get strait up replacements. When you take out each bearing and wipe it off to inspect them look on the backside and you will see 2 sets of numbers. The ones on the left i dont know what they represent but the ones on the right for me atleast because i have a gti-r engine it says 54c00. the 00 part is what you pay attention to because it could either be 01,02,03 etc etc you get the point.

when you right everything all down that you need call up or order them online which ever you do.when you get them the main and rod bearings have notches so its hard to put them on the wrong way when you get new ones. Just put them together with a lot of assembly lube and torque your bolts down perfectly

why does your crank need to be replaced? thats the first thing.

you will want to get plastigauge to check clearances, ive never done a nissan crank but i did do a crank in a 258 I6 jeep engine.

its harder to swap springs and retainers that a crank:D

WOOOOO scratch out how i said how to find what grade bearing you have. all the bearings have the same part number says GREG. V who kindly corrected me when i told him i how i came to the conclusion of which bearings i needed. He told me theres a number on the block for the main bearings and a number on the crank itself for the rod bearings. Just thought id post this before you bought the wrong size bearings

Okay, wow, thanks for everybody's replies. I've been out of it working alot so I didn't have a chance to look at the forum lately. Anyhow....
denske-crankshaft needs to be replaced because earlier this year my 6 or 7 month old SOKO JDM highport motor's crankshaft holes where the flywheel bolts up to became stripped! Sucked balls. I didn't really want to do heli-coil *** of the more negative feedback than good. Swapping the crankshaft was ummm...didn't know how to do it and I imagine tedious work. So...new SOKO JDM motor. Now, I wanna just swap the crankshaft or even ghetto rig it. Would JB Cold Weld on the flywheel and crankshaft hold with grade 8 bolts hold?
sr20kid-harder to do the springs and retainer? I don't know bout that.
Thanks for everybody's replies and advice. Anymore advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.