I am about to do a full exhaust install, header and all. VRS catback.

how to get it mounted and such, header bolts removal?

forum doesn't have much on exhausts:squint:

good luck with the header... the egr is a biatch... I just did a whole setup... pm me what you would like to know... there are a few tricks to the header

aaron

there isnt really a write up necessary for an exhaust install.. for the catback exhaust, there are a total of about 4 bolts/nuts, once you remove them, take the exhaust off the hangers and its ready to come off.

yeah x2 on the egr...im about to get a block off plate just don't know if it'll throw a code or not havn't read up on it...and im lucky none of my bolts broke on my header when taking it off just a stud poped out...

Farm Boss, I just installed a VRS 3" on my NX and it was a total piece of cake.

I jacked up the back of the car and put it on jackstands, then used another jack to pick the front right side up a few inches. It would have been alot easier to just drive the car up on ramps, then jack the back up. I should have done that, and recommend you do it.

Start by bolting your cat or test pipe to the resonator, then get under the car with it, along with your wrenches, and a hydraulic jack or jackstand which you'll use to hold up the far end of the resonator while you bolt the cat or test pipe the the header.

Keep all bolts loose while you're doing the installation, so you can move things around and line them up properly.

Next, slip fit the B pipe into the resonator, and use a jackstand to hold up the back end of it.

Remove the passenger side rear tire, so you have room to work while attaching the buffler pipe to the end of the B pipe.

If you can't get the hanger rods through the rubber hangers, it's sometimes easier to unbolt the hanger from the car, or pop the rubber hanger off, then slip it onto the hanger rod, and reassemble.

Once it's all loosely bolted together, get everything aligned, and tighten it all up.

I also suggest that after it's tightened up, you cut off the ends of the u-bolt threads that extend beyond the nuts on the resonator to B pipe joint, because they hang down a few inches.

C

Chris, how was the fitment? Seems like some people have had some probs with the vrs on the NX.

Kyle,

I was worried about that myself, as I bought the exhaust 2 or 3 months ago and hadn't even opened the box until Friday night. Well, I needed to have the car roadworthy for a 300 mile trip to Watkins Glen by Saturday morning, which added to the stress level.

Anyway, the fitment is FANFUCKINGTASTIC. The damn exhaust just about installed itself, I have nothing but good things to say about it. The only reason I haven't posted anything about it, is because I'm away at Watkins Glen (stealing wireless).

I took a bunch of pics, and will post them along with a review on Monday or Tuesday.

C

i did ameens b14 catback today. the only thing i noticed is on 98 200sx cars will have to take off 1" from the long pipe "s" pipe. this is because the 98 cars have a 13 1/2" long cat and the rest of the b14 cars have a 12 1/4 long cat. me being a fabricator wanted a little more clearence on the gas tank side. i dont think is a big deal at all. but others dont have access to good tools.

Soak the studs on the exhaust manifold with PB blastor/liquid wrench a good 24 hours prior to the install.

come on farmboss, ur the ssautochrome master, shouldn't we be asking u questions? haha, just kidding. exhaust is super easy, as i have taken mine on and off like 4 times this passed month. my b13, i had bought a 36" long 6"wide magnaflow resonator, which from what i read somewhere fits good on a b14. i put it on and now have like barely 2 1/2 inchs of ground clearance from the resonator. doesn't look too good under car, but i'll put a smaller diameter resonator later, as i really like the sound now because it isn't too loud.

Take it to Tank.... or get advice from him... Slamed150

ISP Motorsports
1740 Harmon Avenue
Columbus, Ohio

VRS 2.5" Stainless Cat-Back... 3.5" o.d. / 2.5" i.d. instead of the big one... Tank did a damn good Job

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f254/xxtokesxx/1998%20Nissan%20200SX%20SE-R/Exhaust%20Projects/Exhaust012.jpg

Never seen an exhaust fit more clutch under there... Thanks Tank!!!! Props; I had fun on the drive home...

edit: he already said it himself.. lol

We had issues on John's NX when we got the VRS 3" catback for it. It wanted to hit the sway bar bracket in the rear passenger side. I think it was because of the cat eliminator pipe was to short though, not for sure on that. We had a new one welded up so we will see how it works. I hope that the additional 1.5" we added to it will have it sit cleanly. John bought that pipe from JGY a long time ago so it may have been the pipe. I think we took it from 12" to almost 14" in length. Other than that, the fitment was great on the VRS and it went in with 4 bolts.

Brent

I did a fuji and VRS/Magnaflow 3" cat and catback. Flawless.

I am having LaRocca fab my exhaust, I gave them 13" for my cat to make a custom test-pipe.

I assume I can do this myself? My bro keeps telling me it is so hard and I'm going to need all these special tools, but a damn rachet and socket set will work.

I am having LaRocca fab my exhaust, I gave them 13" for my cat to make a custom test-pipe.

I assume I can do this myself? My bro keeps telling me it is so hard and I'm going to need all these special tools, but a damn rachet and socket set will work.is 13" a good length for a B14 cat replacement?

Do I absolutely need a torque wrench for the head?

how hard is it getting the header off?

is 13" a good length for a B14 cat replacement?

Do I absolutely need a torque wrench for the head?

how hard is it getting the header off?
no, you don't need a torque wrench, but if you are not familiar with how tight things should be, I would recommend it for you.

it is not too bad, the only hard part is the egr tube, and that is not too too bad, other than that it is a breeze.

I also suggest that after it's tightened up, you cut off the ends of the u-bolt threads that extend beyond the nuts on the resonator to B pipe joint, because they hang down a few inches.
C

I thought about doing that too until I realized that you can twist the u-bolt side ways so its not pointing straight down. Put both bolts on the u-bolt BUT slightly tighten ONE of the bolts. Don't tighten the other bolt. This will let you twist the u-bolt. Twist the u-bolt toward the side of the bolt that you just tightened. Then tighten the other bolt which you didn't tighten earlier.

-saaby

no, you don't need a torque wrench, but if you are not familiar with how tight things should be, I would recommend it for you.

it is not too bad, the only hard part is the egr tube, and that is not too too bad, other than that it is a breeze.I have already loosened, cleaned, and slightly derusted the EGR.

The ONLY part I am concerned with is proper fitment of the catback+testpipe to the SSAC header and moreso the header removal of the bolts.

I thought about doing that too until I realized that you can twist the u-bolt side ways so its not pointing straight down. Put both bolts on the u-bolt BUT slightly tighten ONE of the bolts. Don't tighten the other bolt. This will let you twist the u-bolt. Twist the u-bolt toward the side of the bolt that you just tightened. Then tighten the other bolt which you didn't tighten earlier.

-saaby

Yeah, I guess you might be able to do that but it'd be a pain in the ass. Using my angle grinder was quicker, and it makes lots of pretty sparks.

C

anyone know the size of the bolts for the header going directly into the engine block? I want to replace these when I put the new header in.