You might recall the swap I showed pictures of before... I have some new pics, and I am hoping that someone can help me with the problem I am having with the tuning.

The car runs GTi-R injectors, ballast resisters, JWT ECU, Cobra MAF. The car was run on the dyno and it only made 160 at the wheels at 8.5psi with a A/F richer then the wideband could read (10:1).

The car feels normal at full throttle, but its obviously too rich and not making the power that it should. At part throttle driving the car is very stuttery and inconsistent. I thought it was a fuel pressure problem and in the pics you can see the new fuel system I made for it. I have the fuel pressure at about 43 psi at idle, so fuel pressure should be ok... But i am going crazy trying to figure out what the issue is. I have tried 6 and 7 series plugs gapped at .030 and changed the cap and rotor with new parts. I am wondering if JWT forgot to tune the ECU for the larger injectors.... i dunno ***... anyone got some ideas? Anyway, enjoy the pics, we made cold air box, modified the fuel rail, fabricated and installed the BOV setup (not vented back to intake, yes it backfires on shifts usually), made a new brake booster pipe, and more. There are no interior shots yet of all the stuff I put in there.

http://www.cj-motorsports.com/cars/rikki/new1.jpg

http://www.cj-motorsports.com/cars/rikki/new2.jpg

http://www.cj-motorsports.com/cars/rikki/new3.jpg

http://www.cj-motorsports.com/cars/rikki/new4.jpg

-Charles
CJ Motorsports

With your BOV does it idle ok? Nice setup.. clean install

i dig the metal box around the intake to keep it cooler, my friend made one for his eclipse but he didnt have a top for it looks pretty cool.
Sean

I personally believe its that particular program with the Gti-r and the 444cc injectors. Timing has to be set at 15, but even so running rich was normal. I was only able to get 12-14mpg as well as the 2 other Gti-r owners I ve spoken with. Plugs fouled if I turbo timed and let it idle thats why 2 of us needed to resort to an S-afc.

I had a problem with mine sounds kinda similar. car would shudder or barely run at mid throttle, and didn't run peak at full throttle, but idled good, pulled my hair out trying to figure it, and finally after replacing everything else, I ended up replacing the distributor (it would retard it self like it was supossed to, but wouldn't advance it self back to were it should) you might try replacing it.

WARNING: I have very very little knowledge of the GTIR motor... but I do know these motors have 4 individual throttle bodies?? Could it be related to tuning these?? Which I heard was a pain in the ass to do??

NS-t: What prompted you to try changing out the distributor? The GTi-R engine is using the original distributor from the SR motor that was in the 96 SE-R... The car didnt have any issues before the swap so I have my doubts as to it going bad in the process of swapping it over. I am willing to try just about anything... the customer is dieing to have their car back and I keep stalling because I am not satisfied with the way the car is running.

-Charles

well with my situation, the problem seemed to be the timing, it would backfire somwtimes, idled fine shudered in mid throttle ran okay at full throttle and it didn't have the power it should, felt like the sock de, so I went through all the timing stuff, even mechanical timing, and was still stumpped, replaced all the ignition stuff except the distributor, so I bought a new one, and poof it had full power

When you say you have the fuel pressure set at 43 psi, you're talking about base pressure, right (with the vacuum line disconnected)? Also, you're running the JWT 4 bar fuel program, right? I didn't know they offered the 4 bar for the 444s, but hey, I learn something new everyday! :D One last thing, your MAF is hooked up correctly (soldered connections in the right order), right? Check your MAF voltages and TPS reading; it almost sounds like the ECU thinks there's more air than there actually is and is trying to compensate by dumping in a bunch of extra fuel....

Invest your money on a Stand Alone like SDS "Simple Digital System." If you want we can do it for 1400.00 installed. Let me know.

Alex
95 Turbo

who is doing the SDS?

Everyone: One other very interesting thing that I forgot to mention... when the engine is cold, like very cold.. the first time I run it for the day... it runs absolutely PERFECT until it reaches operating temp. Like I feel bad boosting around when the engine is still cold... but man, the car runs like a charm when its so cold like that. It takes 2-3 min before it starts being a poor sport... and then its like that until the next morning, that is unless I let it sit for hours and hours until its cold to the core again. I think that this is a very big clue, but I am still trying to figure out what this clue is telling me.

NX-t: How much was the new distributor? Maybe I will give one a shot...

nsracer: The ECU does not say anything about what bar fuel pressure it is intended for. But Ben at JWT did tell me to set to 43 Base pressure. But 43 psi is 3 bar... unless you count atmosphere then its 4 bar... maybe I should try dropping the base to 29-30. I would say that the car doesnt run bad enough where you would think the TPS or MAF are incorrectly wired... I am very good with wiring and wired the TPS as directed by switching the 2 outter wires, and the Cobra MAF I wired as directed by the instruction pamphlet included with it.

Commander Lex: Its not my money to invest. Its a customers car.

Everyone: Can someone please tell me how to pull the codes from the ECU? I am not sure how the pull them in the Nissans. Also, when I pull them, is there a page out here on the net that can tell me what code is what from this car?

-Charles
CJ Motorsports

Well like they said before...It could the timing and what not. You never know. Have you checked the timing. Cause a few of our friends had similar problems, not that bad, but! The timing was waaaaay off and it ran fine, but not power. Then set the timing and it ran f$ckin great. So....

Have you checked the coolant temp sensor underneath the intake manifold. There are two sensors there. One is used by the ECU to change the operating environment. The DE, DET and GTi-R are different. If it is a DE ECU reprogrammed for GTi-R injectors, then you need the DE sensor. I am not 100% positive which one of the two sensors is the one for the ECU. I would suggest just changing both sensors. The other one is for the temp guage ( I believe that they are the same from DE, DET and Gti-R, but it will not hurt to change).

Good luck,

P.S. The install looks good :)

The 2 pin connector is for the ECU, the 1 spade connector is for the temp gauge.

I thought the 4 bar fuel program required 60psi of pressure at idle with the vacuum line off. ?? Please correct me here if I'm wrong b/c I have the 4 bar program on my DET and I'm still running mad rich!

Both coolant sensors on the GTi-R motor I swapped out from the DE. It is required that you do so for the swap.

The timing I set at what I beleive is 15 degrees. I was told that the first mark is -5 advance, then the next is 0-TDC, then comes 5 advance, then 10, then 15 degrees of advance. And by first mark I mean the last mark trailing the rotation... if looking at the crank pulley from the top passenger side, the mark furthest to the left. To set the timing I pulled off the TPS then set and reconnected TPS.

-Charles

when doing the timing make sure you rev it out to 3 grand 3 times to put it into timing mod after disconnecting the tps.
Sean

I didn't really mean that you might have wired it wrong, rather that maybe you had a bad component or a loose wire; something like that. You might want to check the readings with a DVOM and see what you get.. ya never know! You might also have a faulty fuel regulator (wouldn't be the first time I've seen that happen). Just double check everything... As for the ECU codes, go here: http://se-r.net/faq/ecu.html (cut and paste). Good luck man..

Travis, 4 bar is 58 psi of fuel pressure with the vaccum line disconected; not far from where you're at but, it could make a difference.

Thanks... yeah not far, but, I've heard that 2psi of fuel pressure on the 370's at 4 bar can make or break the setup. It seems to be real finicky for some reason. I'll try again.
Thanks
Travis