in light of this recent thread and me about to assemble my motor with arp products, i am taking a poll. simple you did or did not encounter problems using arp main/head bolts.
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=164973&highlight=arp
please explain any issues.
thanx
~leon

sheeesh, is this in the right section?

ive got head studs!! no problems yet..im about to get main studs and rod bolts to finish the build..

arp is on the top of the bolt/stud world... you can not go wrong with them

arp is on the top of the bolt/stud world... you can not go wrong with them

Obviously you can, did you even click that link?

I have read that other thread and I decided to only use the ARP rod bolts for now. I also only plan on running 10psi so it really doesn't matter much in my situation anyway. I really have no need to upgrade to the ARP head & main studs.

That is my story. What are the plans for your motor?

Mike

Obviously you can, did you even click that link?

Yes i did...

But are you trying to tell me because one sentra blew a head gasket ARP is crap? Nascar doesnt think so, neither does F1. John Force uses ARP, and you know what, so does Tony Schumaker.

There is always a possibility that yes, the bolts were falty, although not likely. And there is also a chance that they were installed wrong. Or something else crazy happened, but who knows.

Yes i did...

But are you trying to tell me because one sentra blew a head gasket ARP is crap? Nascar doesnt think so, neither does F1. John Force uses ARP, and you know what, so does Tony Schumaker.

There is always a possibility that yes, the bolts were falty, although not likely. And there is also a chance that they were installed wrong. Or something else crazy happened, but who knows.

No, but the point is that BigToe has managed to get Arp to admit that they havent followed their own guidelines in the design of the Arp headstuds for the SR20 engine and that they designed them on the basis of the wrong drawings, for some people that may be an issue, for others it doesnt matter.

Mike

Well, if I were boosting like 5489723947psi, then I'd worry about it.

However, for a n/a car, N20 car, or anything on this side of 15psi, I'd use 'em. The same design issues exist between a 7-bolt Mitsi 4G63 factory vs. ARP head stud.

They run consistant, daily 20 to 25psi, and I've not seen one fail. This is kinda like saying that a having a wheel from Company X break as you were driving means every wheel that Company X makes, is shit.

*false!*
///h

... This is kinda like saying that a having a wheel from Company X break as you were driving means every wheel that Company X makes, is sh*t.

*false!*
///h

Well the point is that a design flaw has been pointed out with the current ARP design, I have re-assessed my desire to use their studs after reading Bigtoe's comments.

I have every confidence in his judgement.

Mike

I have read that other thread and I decided to only use the ARP rod bolts for now. I also only plan on running 10psi so it really doesn't matter much in my situation anyway. I really have no need to upgrade to the ARP head & main studs.

That is my story. What are the plans for your motor?

Mike
my plans were to use arp head and main studs. i just ordered the mains, but have not ordered the heads as of yet......dont need em yet.

Well the point is that a design flaw has been pointed out with the current ARP design, I have re-assessed my desire to use their studs after reading Bigtoe's comments.

I have every confidence in his judgement.

Mike


now i am also rethinking though.

If you take the time to read what I was trying to point out you would see that there is a HUGE difference between the use and design of a stud for a Cast Iron Block and an Aluminum Block.
A 4G63 is Cast Iron.

"They run consistant, daily 20 to 25psi, and I've not seen one fail. This is kinda like saying that a having a wheel from Company X break as you were driving means every wheel that Company X makes, is sh*t."

Now who besides you has made that silly assumption.