Well, finally got under my car (93 SES-R with auto trans.) and see where the damn noise come from when I turn my car and accelerate. It turns out that both boots are torn!!!!! I did a search and read up the posting on the forum, but I still have some questions. To remove the driveshaft from the trans, how many bolts do I have to remove? Any idea what size? Also, do I have to replace any seals or bearing?? Thank all in advance for your inputs.

Originally posted by Mada
Well, finally got under my car (93 SES-R with auto trans.) and see where the damn noise come from when I turn my car and accelerate. It turns out that both boots are torn!!!!! I did a search and read up the posting on the forum, but I still have some questions. To remove the driveshaft from the trans, how many bolts do I have to remove? Any idea what size? Also, do I have to replace any seals or bearing?? Thank all in advance for your inputs.

I feel your pain....I've ripped mine about 3 times now, and I've had to replace both of the drive axles (upgraded axles). But to replace the boot you dont have to remove the driveshaft. You have to remove the wheel, hub and adaptor, the brakes and finally the axle, just to get to the boot. Boots are only about $35 at your local nissan dealer. Are the axles broke in half? How long have they been torn? You might wanna check if they're broken before you put the boot on. If it's not broken in half, like mine were, then all you have to do is replace the boot.

Well since I don't know how long they have been torn, I'm just gonna replace the whole thing since they're about $80 a piece. Piece of mind cause I plan to keep this car for a while. Good thing I just went out and bought air compressor and all the impact tools!!! Since I am going to be replacing the shafts, back to my original!! :)

Remove your lower ball joint nut and that big axle nut. You do not need to touch the tie-rod ends. Pull on the spindle/strut assembly and get it back out of the way. As you pull it will swing back out of the way and just push the axle stub through the spindle. Use a prybar and pop the axle out of the trans. You pry right where the axle goes into the trans. There are 3 bolts on the pass. side axle that bolt to the block because it is a longer axle. I think those bolts are 14 mm. Good luck.

While you have the axles out, replace the transmission seals that these axles are in contact with (one on each side).

How hard is it to replace those seals? Any special tool that I would need? Thank you for all your replies so far.:)

I just changed my seal today, not hard at all, the seal is about $7 from nissan. Once the axle is out, I used a hammer to pry it out.

I've had the worst luck lately, I had a torn cv boot, so I just bought a new axle. I get that put on, but there is a small leak from the seal, no one has the seal in stock, so I say the hell with it, and put the new axle on. Not even a week later and the leak is bad, and the NEW axle tore a boot. UNBELIEVABLE!!! I took care of everything today, new cv boot, new seal...it better not have any problems for a while now.

"pry it out with a HAMMER"????? That does not sound reassuring!!! :) I have the service manual, but they are pretty poor at explaining this procedure. It looks like that I need a special tool to put it back in. Is there a some sort of, hum what do you call it, "notch" that will prevent me from driving the seal in too far? Thank again.

Just replaced my passenger side axle last night. Other than some gunting, it went rather smoothly. The hub nut would have been hard if not for my buddy's air gun, and after I removed the tie rod end and sway bar link, the ball joint popped right out. Go to NAPA for the axle, $60 exchange and if you have an Autozone nearby you can get the 32mm socket for the hub nut and a torque wrench that goes to 200 ft/lbs.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mada
"It looks like that I need a special tool to put it back in. Is there a some sort of, hum what do you call it, "notch" that will

Excuse me for jumping in, but there's no need for a special tool to install the seals. The key to doing it right is to push it in with even pressure around the "ring". This can be done by cutting a short piece of 2" dia. pvc pipe to put on top of the ring (Nissan calls it the dust boot). Since the ring is not quite 2 inches you need to cut the pvc along the length to make the diameter just small enough to fit on the ring, then tie it with zip tie so it doesn't "bounce" back. Then you can use the a longer length of pvc to push the dust boot into the passenger side axle, use a shorter length of another pvc for the driver's side. you can drive the seal (or dust boot, or ring, whatever you want to call it) very straight to where it should be. if you're worried about pushing it too far then mark where the old one is before putting the new one in.