Other than the price, what's keeping people from swapping over? and if you go new I bet everything wouldn't be more than $125. Used be much less. I don't have any clutch cable issue yet, but I just want to avoid it if I can.

I think hydraulic clutch systems are more of a PITA than a benefit. You have additional componets which increase the number of potential problems. Example: you have a clutch MC, clutch slave cylinder, hard lines, and soft lines connecting the cylinders. I have had a car with a hydraulic system, and bleeding the system is more difficult - I feel.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying a cable system is better overall; just that I don't see the benefit of converting.

Josh

no adjustment on hydraullic, i will always to have a cable trans, i also feel it has a more direct feel.
drew

....when coach gets set up again for the www....... he could let you know....

.....I don't have any exp. with the nissan's hydro system, but I'm not a fan of them in general..I like to feel the physical contact with every engagement so you can better determine the slip when your rev matching for down shifts......

I have driven both and I like the hydraulic setup a lot better. Bleeding the system is extremely easy. Would I convert, probably not. But I wouldnt not get a car because of it. Also, I would think the hydraulic is more reliable. I have read countless times people having clutch cables breaking. Never heard of issues with hydraulic setups.

There is a reason your brakes and clutch are hydraulic. It's because once you get to a certian point of needed force to make something work the cable is simple to weak, or becomes to large to be managable. Plus, with the hydraulic you can multiply force to overcome a stiff pedal as a result of the stronger pressure plate. I just installed the complete clutch system in my 240 (which is hydraulic) and it's a pretty simple system. 1 line, a pedal with with a main and a slave cylinder. Not exactly a PITA, and the thing is smooth and light even with a 430ftlb rated 6 puck clutch. Try that with a cable.

....is it a pretty progressive ingagement? ie. does it let you slip a bit with a sprung hub?

......?__J

I'll tell you what, the Master Cylinder will fit into the B13 whole, you would have to take off the studs from the MC and drill it out alittle, not a problem. the lines, line up perfectley from the B15 to the B13, the bracket that holds the section where it goes from hardline to softline line up perfectley to the Air intake resonator bracket. I think everyone knows about the clutch arm and slave cylinder already.

I already started the project, so far, all I left is to remove the trans and install the clutch arm and slave. which i should have by tomorrow and done within 2 weeks, not sure about the clutch yet.

1 more thing, the B15 have the Damper thing built into the Master Cylinder unlike the P11 wich is seperate.

There is a reason your brakes and clutch are hydraulic. It's because once you get to a certian point of needed force to make something work the cable is simple to weak, or becomes to large to be managable. Plus, with the hydraulic you can multiply force to overcome a stiff pedal as a result of the stronger pressure plate. I just installed the complete clutch system in my 240 (which is hydraulic) and it's a pretty simple system. 1 line, a pedal with with a main and a slave cylinder. Not exactly a PITA, and the thing is smooth and light even with a 430ftlb rated 6 puck clutch. Try that with a cable.
Exactly, my brothers S13 is WAY easier on the left leg than any cable system is with a heavy duty clutch.

I've driven hydro in a 00 SE, 00 Si and various Rangers. Compared cable clutch, there's less "feel" to it - there's chatter-like vibration in the cable clutch setup that I feel helps you gauge engagement better. Plus, I don't like the too-light feel of hydro - it reminds me of ps vs. manual steering. All this is of course only opinion.

also, replacing a leaky slave cyl. sucks if it's inside the bellhousing (like the Ranger); however, iirc it's outside for the B15

IMO, I would much rather have cable clutch over hydro clutch. I just like the feel of it. The hydro clutch seems like weaksauce, even though it's easier to manage with a heavy duty clutch. If you are a panzy (not saying anyone is..), or just don't want to have to put a lot of pressure on your leg, then hydro would be the way to go ;)

no adjustment on hydraullic

yes there is

i've heard way more stories of snapping cables then failing hydraulics( I don't carry extra MC"s and SC's in my trunk)...I feel the hrydraullic clutch gives are more springy feel in the pedal...especially with a heavy clutch

where is the adjustment, on the pedal or on the rod of the slave cyllinder, most don't have too much adjustment, haven't really dealt with a hydro sr20 tranny but most at my shop are hydraulic, and i like the feel and adjustability of a cable much better
drew

I want to swap a hydro into my p10 so my girlfriend can drive it and I can have a really grippy clutch. The hydro should make us both happy, but I havn't found anyone who has done that yet. Anyone know if it is any different on a g20 than a sentra. I don't want to have to cut my firewall.

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=179924

That guys use p11 parts, I used B15's

Keo. Did you fit a b15 mc into a p10. Someone told me there isn't enough space, but I don't have the mc yet so I can't check (physically) myself.

I put a B15 into a B13, 98SE(-R) put a P11 into a B14, if you lack space I suggest the P11 stuff. The B15 BMC has the damper built into it.

Mechanical vs. Hydraulic/Mechanical...

You would really have to drive to determine if its beneficial or not. I wouldn't think converting to either one would be worth, but I'm interested to see your results :)

The first time I drove an S14 I was suprised with how easy it was to depress the clutch... I was jerking the car like crazy... same way when I got the chance to drive Brians Legacy GT.

Cable clutches can be more problematic, but they are easy to fix... knock on wood.

having driven two b15 SE's one with hydraulic and one with cable clutches, I prefer the cable. As someone said, the hydraulic feels a little too soft for me. You get a better feel for the clutch with a cable system IMO.

Plus there isnt anything u can do about pedal height, and for me thats an issue. In the b15, its hard for me, being 5'3 to reach the hydraulic pedal without being 6 inches away from the steering wheel lol i hated that. With the cable system, I could adjust the pedal so It would engage at about halfway point so I wouldnt have to be in in my dashboard to drive.

Plus, I rather deal with a snapped cable than having to bleed lines and all that nonsense. IMO changing a clutch cable isnt that hard compared to finding leaks and stuff in the hydraulic system.

Do you think the ACT Xtreme PP with the unsprung 6 puck will be soft? :) I rather have leaks than to worry about the cable snapping, it's not like Hydraulic leaks all the time. it's all preference.