Does anybody have a write up on how to change the cap and rotor? I've only had car that had direct fire. This is the first time changing the cap and rotor for me, can someone give me some help. It looks easy enough, but i wanna make sure.

Also does anyone have a good picture of the EGR? I wanna take it out and clean it

take spark plug wires off
pop off cap, believe it's clipped on
pop off rotor that is under cap

reverse
drive hard

O

Yeah, the cap comes off fairly easy, can't remember how its attached but its pretty obvious (probably a 2 or so bolts around the edges). The rotor, under the cap, is bolted on to the shaft it rotates on. Depending on the position, you might not see this little bolt as its on the side of the rotor (could be facing down).

As they say, installation is the reverse of removal.

Aaron

cap looks easy enough to do, just not sure bout rotor

It is one screw on the bottom of it. If it is facing down just put the car in 5th gear and gently push it (the car) forward. it should only be a foot to spin it around all the way. After that put everything back on exactly the way you took it off.


Party on!

Its so easy its ridiculous.
The cap screws off and on. You'll need a phillips screw driver.
The rotor might be a pain. I had to use a little ratchet/socket to get it off.

!!!! dont forget the proper sequence of the plug wires!!!!

be very careful if the two bolts holding the cap on is rusted! use a ton of wd-40 on it or else it will snap if you try to force it off. it happened to me and i would like to see it happen to no one else. btw, you might also want to check your timing after you put the new cap and rotor on.

When i was changing the cap and rotor in my car, the screw holding on the rotor snapped in half, only by the grace of God were we able to extract the remainder of the screw. Just be careful not to make the same mistake

There are 4 timing marks on the car, which one is 15 degree? My car has real bad power surge below 3800 rpm. It seems to be worse when temp is warmer. I am suspecting bad cap and rotor and timing. A lso i got engine code for 33 and 34. I dont think i am knocking, am i?

you might need a 'short' philips/flathead to take the cap off...i did on mine for one of the screws...

looking from the passenger side of the car towards the driver side (as you normally would when doing timing), 20 degrees advanced is the rightmost tick mark. 15 degrees is the one just left of that. someone please correct me if i'm mistaken, but to the best of my knowledge/memory, that's what they are.

Originally posted by jomama
be very careful if the two bolts holding the cap on is rusted! use a ton of wd-40 on it or else it will snap if you try to force it off. it happened to me and i would like to see it happen to no one else. btw, you might also want to check your timing after you put the new cap and rotor on.

It avoid this I put a damp rag beneath the cap under the back side of the screws and used a fine tooth hacksaw (just the blade) and cut the backs of the screws off flush. Have penetrating oil on the head while you do it and the heat from the saw will help loosen it up. The cloth is to catch the metal bits. Don't let them get away. The OEM cap comes with new ones anyway.

Yeah, the mark forwardmost toward the front of the engine is 20 and each one further back is 5 degrees less. I upped mine just yesterday evening.

I just changed the cap and rotor, piece of cake.
Checked the timing, it jumps from 15-20 degree for some reason, why is that

I had been getting engine code 33 and 34. I put in a tank of octane 93, 34 ran away, but 33 is still there. Why does my car require me to run 93?

Where is the idle adjustment screw?

My car is still power surging below 3800 rpm, what should i try to do next? The power surging problem is real bad when the car is warm. Should i clean the EGR valve, anyone have pictures on what that piece looks like and what i should clean? thanks. can the o2 senesor cause the surge in power?

bump

I drove the car for another 400-500 miles today. The hestitation isnt real bad below 3800 rpm when the car is cold. But when the car is warm, it hestitates real bad. Any help

Code 33 oxygen sensor.. 34 knock sensor

Did you adjust your timing or anything like that?
Check your O2 sensor... if its not working properly it will give you performance problems...

BTW there is no idle speed adjustment on the SR20

As for the cap/rotor

Cap bolts on with either 10mm or 12mm.. two bolts... rotor pulls off....

there is a base idle adjustment screw on the sr20de. looking from the front of the car to the rear, the idle screw is maybe 3-5 inches behind and slightly left of the spark plug head of cylinder #1. it's a plastic screw that faces up. turn counter clockwise to increase idle. don't forget to take off your tps when adjusting your base idle.

Got a stupid question, is TPS the 2 plugs that is on the top right of the throttle body? I unhooked the plkug on the left, car acted a little funny, but still idle. When i unplug the one on the right, ist alled. Am i suppose to disconnect htat?

I checked the timing, it jumps from 15 degree to 20 degree back and forth

hmm...on my 94 se-r i only have one plug, but i believe i've read that some cars have two plugs - i might be wrong. if the car stalls, it means that your base idle is set too low. turn the base idle screw maybe a 1/4 turn and start the car with the tps off again. repeat until the car is idling at ~750-800 rpm.
you should check out the archives at se-r.net. gives a more detailed description of how this should be done - including how you should warm up the car, rev it so that it's in the diagnostic mode, etc.

The thing about the se-r page is that it has no pictures. It's hard to tell which is what. I am going to take a digital camera and take a few pictures. Can you guys point out where it is for me when us ee it. Thansk