I just picked up a what I believe is a U13 with trans for short short money. Looks to be in good shape. Turbo has no shaft play too. It has an oil cooler which I thought only W11 had. But the tag on the turbo ends in 000 not 001 which would be the non-BB. The compressor points down like a U13 too. Just didn't know which ones had the oil cooler. The thing is that I currently have a built up 10:1 SR20. Should I boost with the 10:1 pistons or stick with the 8.5:1s? Would it be necessary to do ARP head studs and a better head gasket like cometic?

http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/518/medium/DCP_2743.JPG

EEBay!! You get that in Maine? I was looking at it but decided not to get it. Nice deal.

I'd turbo the motor you have. Make sure you use a good tune for the 10:1 and you'll have yourself a rocket!

Then sell me the long block for cheap after you take the turbo stuff off it ;)

Mike

Yeppers that's the $300 deal in Maine. I can't believe nobody even bid on it. I will most likely be using the DET block cause I won't have to drill and tap, etc. I hear the Bluebird tune would be ok for 10:1 cause it's "mild"?

Possibly.. we're talking the JWT tune rite? You may be able to get away with it but I'd get the ecu re chipped for the 10:1 or even 9.5:1 to be on the safe side.

I ran my 9.5:1 on the 8.5:1 program with no problems at all. I'd just watch your a/f and exhaust temp like a hawk if you are going to go with out the re chip.

Mike

Drop that motor in, run a JWT ECU and run mid 12's like i did two years ago.

I want to build one great powerhouse out of the 2 engines I have.

I want to build one great powerhouse out of the 2 engines I have.

Drop the head from the motor you have now onto the BB motor, sell your 10:1 bottom end and call it a day. That's what i think you should do if you really want to rip apart the motors.

Maybe do some oil squirters and freshen up the main and rod bearings too. I was told it ran great. But, how do you trust a stranger? Do you think I should stick with the 8.5s or maybe even a some 9.5s out of a DE?

Maybe do some oil squirters and freshen up the main and rod bearings too. I was told it ran great. But, how do you trust a stranger? Do you think I should stick with the 8.5s or maybe even a some 9.5s out of a DE?

heh.. a stranger selling you a $900 motor for $300. I'd at least check the rod bearings.

Edit: The motor should have oil squirters in it all ready.

Mike

I was under the impression only the gti-r had the oil squirters. The kid told me he paid 1800 for it a little over a year ago. And that was with no harness, ecu, maf either. I could see paying 900 for a U12, but a U13? Did all the DETs come with forged rods?

Yup all det's (avenir/bb/gti-r) have squirters even the ve's have them I think. As Miko has stated the u12's are old.. 16 years old really. I've seen them on e-bay for $900ish I wouldn’t even pay that to tell you the truth.

The u13’s are old to. They ranged from what 93-95? I personally would not pay much for those either.

AFAIK all the de’s and det’s have forged rods and cranks? The only difference between the regular bb/avenir det and the gti-r det internals is the width of the rods at the big end and the respective bearing journals on the crank (gti-r is thicker) and the 360 deg oiling in the main and rod bearings. I think the regular det's only have 90deg or 180deg?

If I missing anything on the differences someone else can chime in ;)

Mike

Sounds more like a U13 to me by the turbo part# you posted.

It seems like it's a hit or miss with the oil cooler... i've seen them with them and without them.

My u13 has squirters
http://www.sr20.net/d/54694-2/IMG_0851.JPG

And my u12 I had back in the day had them also..
http://www.sr20.net/d/258-3/abg.jpg hehe..

That pics was taken after this unfortunate event.. :(
http://www.sr20.net/d/269-3/abc.jpg

Mike

Oooo, how exactly did THAT ^ event happen? Ouch! Well if I am ordering rod/main bearings, might as well get gti-r then just to be safe. If I remember they don't cost much more than DEs.

When I got the motor I failed to check the lower pan and it was pushed up into the sump causing the rod bearings to become compromised. Even after I fixed the pan the motor still had some noise at start up I didn't like. I just never got around to replacing the bearings at it blew up on me while doing a 4th gear pull on a long straight road. I can still remember the feeling of stuff bouncing off the floor boards to this day. It was a trip.

Just a fyi I think you need to do some machining to get the gti-r bearings to work correctly. The block has to have the extra oiling supply tapped for the main bearings and the rod bearings are wider so I think the DET/DE crank has to be machined out to allow for them to fit. I could be wrong though.

The U12 i just took apart about a month ago had oil squirters in it also.

And how convenient it is that I have a bunch of plastigauge that should have been used on my last project. :bigthump: we all know that stuff isn't cheap! Good to find out I already have the squirters though. Would I be over doing it by using ARP head studs? Or at least ARP rod fasteners? What head gasket would you recommend?

I don't think it would be over doing it. But I do think the stock head and main bolts will work fine (as long as they are new.) When my motor goes together the only arp fastener I'll be using is the rod bolts.

I won't be running more than 10-12 psi though so the only thing I'll be worried about blowing apart is the rod bearings from revving it out.

Mike

I found a starion IC for 50 bucks. I think I am aiming this to be the cheapest project yet.

Nice. I forgot.. I wanted to ask you what kind of a tranny that thing came with.