Here are the JE 10.4:1 87mm pistons with Swain tech coatings.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid19/p6dc7ca9e00a50185aba45de4181a2a5b/fdc437b6.jpg

Here is the picture of the assembled short block fresh from the machine shop. The deck was resurfaced a minute 0.001". The ARP head studs stand prominent above the block.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid19/pd39d4eb3ecdcc69e437c601086bc84a9/fdc437b8.jpg

The block consists of JE pistons, Cunningham rods, new bearings, GTI-R main cap bolts, thrust washers, bored over 1mm and the whole assembly was balanced and blueprinted per the FSM.

It's getting REAL close to being done. Hopefully be June I'll be breaking her in.

Looking good.. Cant wait to see what this baby runs! Keep
us posted.

Daryl, you be sure to keep us posted with Jamie's car. Post pictures galore! By the way, you wouldn't happen to need those Driveshaft Shop axles right;)! I can come uninstall them for you!
Help a brotha out!

Gotta love high compression and boost! That is what all the 9 second Honda's are doing! Have to keep up with times!

hey Louis, I thought running high compression and boost was a good thing to do.

Originally posted by Big Boost
Daryl, you be sure to keep us posted with Jamie's car. Post pictures galore! By the way, you wouldn't happen to need those Driveshaft Shop axles right;)! I can come uninstall them for you!
Help a brotha out!


hey ! let me know when u going to the track ,,,

How much boost are you planning to run?? I don't understand the theory or high compression and boost. That wouldn't be too reliable would it?? The reason I ask is because my friend has a '99 Golf 2.0L that he has turbo'd and blew the motor immediately running 9.2:1 compression. He has now completed the full rebuild consisting of:

9:1 compression pistons with custom skirts and forged
Total Seal Rings
ARP hardware
2 headgaskets
Crane springs
Techtonics retainers and keepers
Fully balanced and blueprinted
Intake and manifold ported

His engine builder assures that this will be reliable for 20psi because of the low compression and strength of the internals.

I know with this low compression the car will be a dog down low, but his turbo setup is designed to create boost at 2500-3000 rpm, which will compensate for the low compression.

Good Luck with the rebuild and keep us posted with details!

i think that high compression and high boost are fine if you have really high octane fuel(C16 or the like) and have TONS of it goin into the motor

i was thinking the same thing, high compression and high boost = new motor needed. my friend has an si2000 and they put je flattop 10.0 - 1 in it, and alot of other things($3000+ on internals, and no cams!)and the shop said 20 psi shouldnt be a problem(turbo comming soon) I just thought the 2 didnt mix well. Brian

I've done exhaustive homework regarding this combination. It mainly comes down to a few major factors. Fuel management and efficiency of the intercooler system are the main issues that have been addressed. I've also taken major steps to reduce detonation throughout the combustion chamber, exhaust ports, and pistons. The Swaintech coating is a major plus along with the equal length turbo manifold. There should absolutely no exhaust reversion in the system. This combined with a air to water intercooler system teamed with the Stage III manifold should prove many doubters wrong.
Do you guys realize how many cars out there have both high compression and boost that are properly tuned? A great deal more than you know about!

IMHO there should be no problem with high compression and boost.. AS LONG AS THE OCTANE is there. C16 or higher will be needed.. I am assuming this is a drag car. I would not want to run more than about 8-10psi with that compression on pump gas.

Raising the compression is like raising the boost. Same basic effect except that the higher compression will make more power out of boost to spool the turbo, and make more power in the efficency range of the turbo so you dont have to run crazy boost numbers. Almost all if not all of the high HP hondas (600+ hp) are running over 10:1 compression. At the Lone star nationals 3 weeks ago there was a damn Civic runnin 12.5:1 compression with 20psi.....NUTZ!!! Car was running 11's IIRC. Had a odd combination of a T66 Cold side on a T3 Hotside. T66/T3 hybrid... Stupid if you ask me..

Good looking motor.... Although the pistons dont look as impressive without a dome/dish, and no valve pockets.. Looks odd that flat.

Danny

How much are the APR head Studs? I was looking for a set but couldnt find any.

I bought them from http://www.back-yard-productions.com.
The price was $265 plus shipping. If you plan on running "Big Boost*", these are the items you need to keep the head from lifting.

*Pun intended

Originally posted by Big Boost
I bought them from http://www.back-yard-productions.com.
The price was $265 plus shipping. If you plan on running "Big Boost*", these are the items you need to keep the head from lifting.

*Pun intended

I am not too sure if they are a necessity. Ben Benavides ran the factory head bolts and made 524 whp without any problems! As long as you use new bolts and torque them correctly, you shoudl have no problems!

THAT IS A LOT OF MONEY FOR HEAD STUDS!!! The last ARP headstuds I bought cost about 80$ with studs, nuts, washers, and ARP molly lube.. BRAND NEW.

Mike Kojima wrote a while ago that the head can lift without head studs if it sees higher boost pressure. You must also realize that I have much higher static compression than Ben. At the very least, this ensures me that the head will stay true. The weak link will be the head gasket as I intend. I would much rather see that blow than the pistons.
I called ARP and they had no such part number in their inventory for the SR20 engine. They told me to call whoever was selling them, because it was a special order part. Yes, it is expensive but just it's just like paying for insurance. You pay for it, but hope you never need it.
For those of us old enough to remember, when the aftermarket started to embrace the SR20DE, parts were relatively expensive. A majority of the emphasis remained on the Honda platform (and still does). I admit that I paid a premium on the head studs, but if enough quantities are required in the future the market will drive the price substantially down.

I got those on my motor and basically the same set up as the pic above 87mm 2.1 liter displacement.. i went with a grex metal 1.8mm head gasket which set my compression ratio nice and low @ 8.0:1....

I agree with the head studs. I'm running new oem head studs.
Rob, give me your # so I can get hold of you.

What you need to do is what i did. Measure your stock studs. Measure from the bottom of the bolt hole in the block to the bolt surface in the head. Add about .5" for the nut and washer. Give them the thread pitch of the spot in the block and you have your stud.

When I called for the Miata they said they were not made. I did all the measurements, called them, and they had a bolt in stock. I told them the size and the app so they could have it in the computer. Even to this day if you call and talk to anyone they will tell you that they dont have one for the Miata... Kinda sucks.

HTH for future people who are going to buy head studs.

Danny