Well, after looking at 12 of these cars over the past 6months, I bought one. It's a 93 SE-R in Ruby Red. It has KYB Struts ans Suspension Techniques springs along with 16" rims on Nitto tires---it looks real agressive and rides nice. It also has a DTM style exhaust with a cone style intake. It has the stock sunroof, cruise, air...etc. It does not have the water in the trunk issue which is nice. The kicker? It only has 75,000 miles on it and no 5th gear pop-out! I was shocked. The car is in great shape. I paid a bit more than I wanted, but it's 30min. from my house versus some that were 12 hours!

Anyway, I need to fix two things: The cruise doesn't work and the blowor motor on the fan doesn't work on setting number 1. Can anyone give me any ideas what to look for on these problems?

Thanks!
Curt B. Shumaker

On the blower, you'll need a new resistor. Search se-r-list.org or se-r.net under common problems somewhere. I believe is like $15-25.

Dont have cruise... cant help you.

Other stuff:
Does the drivers front door sag? New hinges.
Get and install ES motor mounts now to help stave off 5th gear pop-out (it probably *will* happen eventually).
If the windows are difficult to roll up, remove the door panels and liberally apply silicone lube to the tracks.
Adjust the timing immediately if not sooner. While youre there bump it up to 17deg.

If none of this applies to you... good find!

I found that site earlier about the resistor---however, there is no writeup on how to do it or where to get the parts. I emailed the author for more info.

It doesn't have the sagging doors which is nice. Where can I get the motor mounts and how much should I expect to pay? How about Redline fluids for the gear box? Who has those the cheapest? How hard is it to swap that fluid out?

Thanks!
Curt B. Shumaker

FAQ:
>>>Wayne Cox (wcox@erinet.com)

>>>There's a little resistor module under the dash on the passenger side
>>>[behind the glovebox]. Easy to get to. 'Bout $23 to replace. Mine died
>>>300 miles out of warranty. The replacement I got looked a lot better made.

If you dont have a Factory Service Manual, get it (mines payed for itself *at least* a hundred times over.

Both the resistor and the ES Motor Mounts were obtained from Courtesy Nissan. They know the part number for the resistor and ask for the torque set ES motor mounts (they're the main ones they sell). Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts are about $35 (way, way, way worth it!!!). They're a bitch to install, though.

I was going to recommend Redline, but thought maybe you hadn't gotten that far. I highly recommend it. Get the MT-90. I got it at a local BMW racing shop. A lot of racing type shops have it. ($$$, though)

I had read that MT-90 wasn't good for the tranny. I thought the MTL was what I wanted---maybe I am confused. Can you point me in the right direction?

As far as the engine mounts go---I thought the passenger side one wasn't bad to do. The rear one was supposed to be the one that was a problem---am I wrong?

Thanks!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

I put MT-90 in mine and it feels like a new tranny. Smooth through the gears. No gear clash.

Back in the day, I had to sift and sift through the SE-R archives, but came to the resolution that MT-90 was the one to go with. Ive been using it for at least 3 years now... no problems and my gearbox is still silky smooth. Still have a bottle left Im looking at here, only reason Im sure.

Actually, the archives are misleading on the mounts, also. The mounts you remove to press in the inserts are located: 1. on the front of the car, and 2. on the rear of the engine bay.

The passenger side mount is not a torque mount. This one is only replaced my either die-hard autocrossers/drag racers or anal retentives.

The front and rear (in relation to the car) mounts are called torque mounts because they control the engine from acceleration & decceleration movement.

They eliminated all wheel-hop, slop, slamming, and groaning in my car. With the mounts and my new suspension, I have hardly any rattling! Not bad for a 11-year old car. Its sooooo tight (not slang tite!).

If you are buying ES stuff, I highly recommend Suspension Restoration Parts in California (www.suspension.com). Their prices are better than Courtesy's, and their speed/accuracy/customer service are *much* better. Does anyone know how the recent ES factory fire has affected availability?

MT90 is the best redline oil for our cars, and comes highly recommended by some friends of mine, but I like Royal Purple 75w90 as well. The royal purple is usually a little cheaper, and it feels great in my gearbox (greatly improves shifting in the Maine cold). Either RP or MT90 should work great though.

The ES torque set (particularly the firewall mount) is a bit of a pain to install - the key is to use lots of lubrication and it also doesn't hurt to have something stiff and flat to use on either side of the mount to guide the inserts into the bracket. Overall, a very worthy mod, though! The torque set is the pair to install first - it prevents most of the engine movement. The passenger mount is prone to failure and people often just replace that with a stock piece. The ES insert for the passenger mount involves cutting out the rubber, I believe.

Josh

Ok, I have to ask this. The car I bought doesn't make any noises at all when I accelerate and then jump off of the gas. Should I go throught the trouble of replacing with inserts if I don't need to? Someone suggested it would help avoid 5th gear pop-out. I am willing to do whatever I can to avoid that---any other suggestions on how to avoid that?

Finally, I am rather mechanically inclined with air tools--etc. However, I have never done an engine mount. Can someone give me some step-by-step directions on what to expect with this?

Thanks!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

Regarding the bottom rear firewall mount... I didn't have a second person to jiggle the motor to get the bolt through to the threads, so...

I took a grinder to the end of the bolt (barely) and made a tapered end. I then took metal brushes on said grinder and files away any burs (sp?). That way there are still threads there, they are just a tad smaller. This still leaves plently of room for threads to be firmly screwed onto the mount-thingy. And this allows you to start the thread whether ot not the bolt is lining up perfectly with the far side of the threads past the actual mount.

(Save this... you'll know what this means when you do it.)

Originally posted by shumax
Ok, I have to ask this. The car I bought doesn't make any noises at all when I accelerate and then jump off of the gas. Should I go throught the trouble of replacing with inserts if I don't need to?

Mine just started the noise about a month ago, but now my car feels better than when I bought it 4 years ago!

I have never done an engine mount. Can someone give me some step-by-step directions on what to expect with this?

When you get them, PM me. I just did it last week, so everything is still fresh on my mind, and I still remember everything that was a pain (took me from 2PM to 9PM!!!!). And I do everything from oil to brakes to installing my engine.

Oh, and beforehand, make sure you have access to a vise (I used me poppa's).

Grinding a point on the end of the MM bolt is good advice - I hadn't thought of that, because for some reason my firewall mount bolt was already pointed. I did however have to grind a point on my passenger MM bolt to get it back in after an alternator swap.

Do the ES motor mounts!! even if your car feels fine already, do it! It's cheap, not THAT difficult, and it totally transforms how the car feels. The car feels much more solid when shifting (do an ES shifter bushing while you're in there, only $6), and it's a safeguard against both tranny-cracking wheelhop and 5th-gear popout issues. It may cause minor discomfort to do, but I still can't recommend this mod enough.

Josh

This all sounds great. However, without some directions, I am not very interested in doing it. The bushing for the shifter? Where is that located? Is it something that would be out if I did a short shifter kit? I don't mind trying these mods---just need pics and directions. I have a HAYNES Manual on the way---will that be good enough?

Thanks!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

Yeah a Haynes'll be good enough, for now.

Spend the $35, I'll walk you through it. I'll even give you my mobile# if you do it on the weekend.

It totally made me feel good about not having a brand-new car. It now *feels* like a brand new car!

I haven't done the shifter bushing yet, but after the mounts were so freakin impressive, that's next on my list! (it wasn't even on my list before)

Well, ES does provide basic instructions. There must be somewhere online that has pics... It's not at all hard mechanically, just a pain to squeeze the inserts into that bracket on the firewall mount. The shifter bushing is right next to the crossmember that the torque set motor mounts are located on (which you will remove to install the MM set anyway). Trust me, it's very obvious what to do once you see it all there... jack up your car high and take a look :).

Josh

Originally posted by MEclassic
it's very obvious what to do once you see it all there... jack up your car high...

Really, really high!

Ive still got bruises on my chest from breathing, my car was so low!

I installed MT-90 in a '92 SE-R halfway through last winter, and noticed a nice improvement in ease of gear engagement. I sold that car last month, and am about to do the Redline changeout on the '94 I bought as it's replacement. I purchased my MR-90 from these folks:

http://www.myoilshop.com/

As for how it's done:

You need a flat spot to park, a 3/8 ratchet w/ extension, a 1/2 ratchet w/ extension, a funnel with a flexible neck! (and maybe a cheater pipe to slip over your ratchet, the plugs on my car were extremely tight)

Put a drain pan under the transaxle (and some cardboard under the drainpan... don't want this stuff on your driveway!!) and take out the 3/8 plug on the front of the tranny and then take out the 1/2 plug that is on the drivers side... let it drain. (If you drive your car a little before hand and get it warmed up it comes out faster).
Before filling, you might want to use some Loc-tite on the plug threads.

To fill, you need a funnel with a hose. I simply used a regular plastic funnel and found some flexible plastic tubing, about 2 & 1/2 ft. in length, although you can buy a ready made tranny funnel as well. Just stuff it in the front (3/8") opening after replacing the drain plug :) and pour away until it just starts to overflow. Should take a little less than 4 quarts.

Good luck, and congrats on your find, Gary S.

Can you give me the parts number I need for the mounts? Might as well give me the one for the shifter bushing too. I won't be attacking this for about 2 weeks---weekends are full for a while.

Thanks again guys!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX'