Just what do they do anyway? Remember, I'm new and need a good education! :)

They help reduce the "play" of the engine when you get on and off of the throttle. They also help reduce, if not eliminate, wheelhop. Just my thought, but if you do decide to get the engine mounts done then do the shifter bushing too. You all already 90%+ of the way there when you do the motor mounts so why not do the shifter bushing? Good luck and P.S. they make a great difference in the way the car feels.

So its basically just for comfort then? The shifter bushings reduce the shifter rattle? How hard is it to install motor mounts/shifter bushings?

Ju§tin

It's not for just comfort but for piece of mind when you take off hard in your car you have ALOT less chance of breaking the tranny casing or tranny. And the shifter bushing helps firm up the drivetrain play and make your shifts more of a positive feeling. Replacing the mounts isn't hard. I would say a 5 or 6 on a 10 point scale. I would recommend a second person to help you out by getting tools, extra brain for logical approaches to things (had a very good friend help me out when I was trying to do a header and motor mount w/ shifter bushing install at the same time.) and to help align holes for the bolts when you are puting everything back together.

alright cool! Where exactly are the motor mounts on the car? I know how to get to the shifter bushings since I just installed my short shifter on friday!

Ju§tin

The bushings are on the front and the back of the engine block/bay. If you look underneath the car up front you will see that the crossmember (goes from front to back and is right underneath the engine block/tranny) attaches to two places. These two places are where the bushings go. I would also make sure you have access to a vice for the mounts too. This makes the front one go in like a piece of cake, alittle patience, but a piece of cake. The rear is alittle bit harder. You might want to go to www.se-r.net and do a search for the installation on the motor mounts. If I remember correctly that is a pretty good write up about it. And if you need to know where to get the bushings from go to www.suspension.com, get their number and call them up and ask to speak to Lori or Bruce. Just tell them what you want and they will get it to you. The MM are around $25 and the shifter bushing is around $6. The S&H is also around $6 for Fedex Ground. They definately know what they are doing and they are very courteous. Even if you don't know the part number they will. Get them bushings in and enjoy the rewards! Let us know how it goes for you and if you need any help or have any questions with the install, just call me. The number is in the sig. line.

Originally posted by Crono1321
Just what do they do anyway?

This was not mentioned, and maybe you already know it (if so, never mind me :), but I felt I should mention: the bushings themselves are the sole supporter of the engine in your car.

Also, depending on your car and what you do with it, you might not want to put the energy suspension motor mount inserts in all the bushings. It'll create a lot more vibration, and introduce a lot more noises in your car.

If your bushings are failing, then I really wouldn't put the ES inserts as an attempt to fix them. This of course doesn't apply to the passenger side insert and the front insert, since they replace the entire old bushing. The other two inserts are supports for the existing bushing.

If you want to replace the bushings as a maintenance item, consider just replacing them with Nissan OEM ones. If you want to keep the engine under a bit more control under accel/decel/etc, then consider the ES torque motor mount insert set (only the front and rear bushings).

ak

Originally posted by luminus

Also, depending on your car and what you do with it, you might not want to put the energy suspension motor mount inserts in all the bushings. It'll create a lot more vibration, and introduce a lot more noises in your car.

I am 28 with older-dude tastes, and the only time I notice more vibration is about a half-a-second when I start my car. Otherwise, ES motor mounts have *less* vibration than worn stock mounts.

If your bushings are failing, then I really wouldn't put the ES inserts as an attempt to fix them.

On the contrary, ES motor mounts are designed to fill in the space of the current mounts, *and* utilize broken and/or worn mounts to create a stiffer mount altogether. In essence, they actually do "fix" broken mounts.

And $35 is a lot cheaper than $80+ per mount, OEM. (roughly)

Originally posted by llaprad1
I am 28 with older-dude tastes, and the only time I notice more vibration is about a half-a-second when I start my car. Otherwise, ES motor mounts have *less* vibration than worn stock mounts.

Is this with the full ES set, or just the torque set? I get the same vibration immediately after its started. I've heard that the full ES set vibrates all the time.

On the contrary, ES motor mounts are designed to fill in the space of the current mounts, *and* utilize broken and/or worn mounts to create a stiffer mount altogether. In essence, they actually do "fix" broken mounts.

And $35 is a lot cheaper than $80+ per mount, OEM. (roughly)

I'll agree with you there that they will work like that, its just my general feeling is that if they are bad, replace them. :) To each is own I guess.

And, yes, all new OEM mounts are pretty expensive, esp. the liquid filled passenger one!

Aaron

Originally posted by luminus
Is this with the full ES set, or just the torque set? I get the same vibration immediately after its started. I've heard that the full ES set vibrates all the time.

I only have the torque set (I took out the others and they still look quite good). Furthermore, replacing the torque set only soved all my problems. However, I dont race; street, drag, autoX, or otherwise.

so what is the problem with doing a full ES set?? i heard very bad vibration is the result?? anyone know why or if that is accurate??

Originally posted by NX$paniard
so what is the problem with doing a full ES set?? i heard very bad vibration is the result?? anyone know why or if that is accurate??

Yeah, its accurate. If all four original mounts are a softer rubber, they can absorb the engine vibrations before they get to the chassis. Now if you replace all of them with a poly insert or other stiff material, most of those vibrations go straight to the chassis. Just imagine what it would be like if the engine was welded in...

Its no real problem doing the full ES set, just be ready for the extra vibration. I haven't done the full ES set so I can't comment on what thats really like, but the torque ES set along with new poly front control arm bushings solved my problems with wheel hop.

Aaron

just confirming..,. Thanx!

Originally posted by luminus


Yeah, its accurate. If all four original mounts are a softer rubber, they can absorb the engine vibrations before they get to the chassis. Now if you replace all of them with a poly insert or other stiff material, most of those vibrations go straight to the chassis. Just imagine what it would be like if the engine was welded in...

Its no real problem doing the full ES set, just be ready for the extra vibration. I haven't done the full ES set so I can't comment on what thats really like, but the torque ES set along with new poly front control arm bushings solved my problems with wheel hop.

Aaron

It's a matter of personal opinion about vibration. I reinforced my OEM mounts with pour-in urethane to make a set of homemade Energy Suspension-like inserts around the existing rubber mounts. It took about 48 hours to make and dry them. Now, all four OEM mounts are very stiff, and I think the additional, slight vibrations are great!! I think it makes the car sound stronger.

I like the instant throttle response, too.
Check out more details at the following websites:

http://heer.home.mindspring.com/autos/autos6.html

http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/6160/se-r/mounts.html

http://nx2k.com/nx2000/hd_mounts.htm

It was well worth the effort and the $20 worth of urethane.

I found a site that has the inserts for $25 and the shifter bushing for $5. One quiestion though it says on the inserts that its for 91-94 Sentras, will it still work in my 99 SE-L? And is this a good price?

duh... http://www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm

Originally posted by Synx
I found a site that has the inserts for $25 and the shifter bushing for $5. One quiestion though it says on the inserts that its for 91-94 Sentras, will it still work in my 99 SE-L? And is this a good price?

duh... http://www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm

The set that is $25.00 is for only 2 mounts - the one near the firewall and the "dogbone" in between the engine and the radiator (I think). Both of those are integrated with the crossmember. The other two require a bit more work, especially the "passenger side" mount near the coolant overflow bottle. You must press out the old mount and press in the Energy Suspension one, I think.

The ES inserts should fit all B13 and B14 mounts, but I recall some small difference between the B13 and B14 mount that is under the battery tray. Some B14s came with this "tranny" mount with an added semi-circle support piece. Hard to describe, but it won't make any difference with the ES inserts AFAIK.

Trust me. Get a $20 package of Shore-90 urethane from McMaster-Carr. Put duct tape on one side of each mount. Mix the urethane, pour it into the open cavities of each mount. Let it set up for 48 hours. Wa-La. Reinforced motor mounts. Much easier than the ES, which require a press (at least for some).

John

Originally posted by jheer
Much easier than the ES, which require a press (at least for some).

I used a bench vise.

Question for people using the es firewall inserts; Does it stick out at the sides?

Mine does, and I had to trim the driver's side insert with a dremmel to get it to clear the shifter.

Lately I've run into some wheel hop issues, and wonder if the mount is at fault. Maybe I'll try the goo trick.

Originally posted by Bennitto Mallito
Question for people using the es firewall inserts; Does it stick out at the sides?.

Mine doesn't. It was a tight fit, but I had no clearance issues and it looks correct when installed.

Aaron

What is the difference between the two ES kits you guys were speaking of?

Where did you guys buy the ES kits or the MCMASTER goo?