I found an ECU from an Auto 93 G20. I'm not sure if the ecus are different for automatics and manuals. Will this work on my 96 5-speed se-r?

It will work..but you will get a check engine light...this is due to the ecu not getting the signal it thinks it should from the auto trans computer...just pull the bulb..and you are set..:D

It will NOT work. A 93 G20 was OBDI. You need a 94-96 G20 ECU because it is OBDII.

Oh shit..I didnt even notice he said that (93)...my bad bro...I need to pull my head out and pay attention.:D

Just search partstrader.com (i think thats where i went) picked up a 96 G20 Ecu for 80 bucks.. it works too, not fried like I thought it might be.

whats the advantage of getting a G20 ecu? Brian

Originally posted by TUNED200
whats the advantage of getting a G20 ecu? Brian


It's only an advatange for the 95-99's. You get a 7500rpms rev limiter and it removes the speed governor.

Why do ppl really want a 7500 rev limit cause I though that the sr20de motors peak hp was at 6800. I guess you would need one for top speed. I might be wrong so correct me if needed about the peak hp. :)

If you were to climb a mountain...would you start out and automatically be at the peak....?

Just becasue you hit peak, does not mean you arent still making power.....

okay first of all, small displacement motors thrive on high rev limits to make power.

Here's a dyno of a slightly modified SER with a G20 computer... I couldnt find one of a stock car with just an ECU.
http://www.se-r.net/car_info/dyno/pulley_dyno.gif

Now lets say each shift drops 1500 RPM.
Peak HP is at 6500 RPM
These arent exact, just examples...

If you shift at 6500 rpm(peak HP) you drop to 5000 for the next gear.. So you shifted at 160HP to drop to 138 HP.

Now I shift at 7500 I'm still making 145 HP, more than where you shifted to, plus at 6000 RPM I'm making about 148 close to peak HP..

Now of course torque is important too... but once your already going its not as helpful as HP is

So the whole point is that its not just where youre making peak HP, its where it is in relation to the next shift

or the ecu could be helpful in a situation like mine; where i'm still making power right into the damned rev limiter!!

http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze389xr/Dyno_run2_small.jpg (http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze389xr/Dyno_run2.jpg)

yes, the pic is a link to a bigger pic. :)

interesting charts. But it looks like to me that if you reving up to 7500 then its taking more time to get there even though you gaining more when you shift. Am I wrong?

when we talk about shifting at redline, is it to keep us in the "power band"? my friend has a prelude and it redlines at 7500? or so, but he can shift it up to 8200. so i guess what im asking is if anything can be gained, like higher speeds per gear or faster times? Brian

Originally posted by TUNED200
when we talk about shifting at redline, is it to keep us in the "power band"? my friend has a prelude and it redlines at 7500? or so, but he can shift it up to 8200. so i guess what im asking is if anything can be gained, like higher speeds per gear or faster times? Brian

don't forget most stock tachs are inaccurate. my redline is 7100, but it looks like 7300 when i shift. yes, i shift @ redline because i am still in my power band.

anyways.. i think it was mentioned to shift at 7500 in first, second and on shift at 7200 right?

If you have S3 or S4 cams in our cars, you definately want to shift at redline. The 7100rpms limiter really SUCKS when you have cams.

I know there are many other factors that can affect your quarter mile time. ( Mis-shifts, 60ft...etc...... ) But try a few runs shifting at 6,500 and then try shifting at redline on the next few runs. Take a average of the runs. ( considering similar 60fts and throwing out runs with mis-shifts, mistakes, etc... ) Im almost certain you'll see faster times and MPH when shifting at Redline. *At least this is what I've seen with my own experiences*