I've been digging in the archives for weeks.,but I still can't find answers to some of my questions.

I am after about 230whp. Will the F-Max Stage I get me there? They show dyno charts with 262whp and 291whp, but I don't think these results came from a true stage 1 setup.

Why don't they show torque on these charts? Does torque suffer when you add turbo to a SR20DE?

Is the intercooler that comes with the Stage 1 kit the front mount one that they show in the picture? Will it fit on a '98 200sx?

Why don't they mention the oil lines and hardware that is often discussed in the archives?

Will I need to relocate my battery?

I have many more questions. But I need to do some more research.

As always, thanks in advance for any advice or opinions.

-Jeff-

Go to the fmax site www.f-max.com that will tell you the difference between stage 1 and 2. 230whp should be no problem with the stage 1, and you dont have to relocate the battery, as for the hardware i dont think its included.

JD - Thanks for the reply. I have already been to F-Max.com. Thats really what generated some of my questions. I can't beleive that the oil lines don't come with the kit. It's not like its an optional upgrade. You need to have it, right?

I'm leaning towards the ball bearing t3to4e. Any thoughts?

For the oil lines and a fittings talk to Louis (TurboChargedSeR) he can get everytning you need for the setup.

As for the turbo, ball bearing is sweet if you got the ca$h. I think you should save the extra money for stuff you will need after your boosted. Turbo timer, boost controler, tires, whatever else comes. Believe me things WILL come up! And do you know what size turbo you want exhaust A/R, inlet size? If you have any further questions feel free to P.M. me.

All the hardware is included. I want to squash this rumor before it gets started. Oil lines, couplings, bolts, washers you name it, you get it and you need nothing else.

Heck they even throw in tons of vacuum line, vacuum line tees, fittings, clamps, etc.

PS Almost forgot, they *even* throw in the big tap for the drain. With all these little pieces they didn't leave anything I needed out.

Thomas

Why not just get a bluebird? And do that stock with 10 psi.

What kind of price difference are we talking about between a ball bearing turbo and a non-BB turbo? Conveniently, the F-Max and Turbonetics Inc web pages leave off the prices.

Yes, a boost controller and turbo timer are in my plans already as well as better brakes. I'm thinking about a set-up from Fast Brakes.

I'll have to do some more reading about the exhaust A/R and inlet sizing before I can even form a legitimate question.

I'm happy to hear that EVERYTHING is included (or supposed to be). Thomas, would you happen to have any pictures? This kit comes with a FMIC right? How well does it fit with a stock front bumper? Will the IC get enough airflow?

I didn't want to get a BB with a questionable history. Although my motor has 100K+ on it; they were all miles I put on it. I know that 99.9K were conservative miles, and I never missed an oil change. I think I should be ok. I don't plan on pushing more than 250whp ever.

Thanks again for the info so far. Keep it coming.
-Jeff-

Originally posted by Thomas Reynolds
All the hardware is included. I want to squash this rumor before it gets started. Oil lines, couplings, bolts, washers you name it, you get it and you need nothing else.

Heck they even throw in tons of vacuum line, vacuum line tees, fittings, clamps, etc.

PS Almost forgot, they *even* throw in the big tap for the drain. With all these little pieces they didn't leave anything I needed out.

Thomas

Wow, you learn somthing new everyday, thats pretty sweet

$1500 vs. $4000

230 whp.


Take your pick.

Originally posted by 92SE-R
$1500 vs. $4000

230 whp.


Take your pick.
I'm guessing you're referring to the $1500 for the DET swap? Ok that would be possible IF he were driving a classic. I've spoken with several people about how easy it is to swap a DET into a classic. But he has a 98 se-r. Not quite so easy.

I've been toying with the idea of boost a lot lately and no matter what route I go with it seems that I'm going to be in the ballpark of $5000. So do you want 230 whp, and that's it, or would you like the possibility to turn the boost up and get over 250whp.

If I was only wanting 230whp, I don't think I'd spend the money on the FMAX kit. You could piece together a nice T28 setup for much less, and be right at your goals.

IF you take your time, and piece it together over a period of 3-5 months, you CAN put together a decent T28 setup (used turbo) for $2,000 or less.

I did. :D

Originally posted by 92SE-R
$1500 vs. $4000

230 whp.

Take your pick.

Uhhh...in a word NO. Sorry dude, but it doesn't cost $1500 to do a BB swap that will get you 230whp.

$1500 for engine
$600-$800 for IC and piping, you could go really cheap here, but you wouldn't get the same quality of IC that FMAX gets you.
$200-$250 for DP
$500-600 JWT ECU
$50 for MBC
$120 for Walbro fuel pump - I woudn't risk trying to push 230whp with the stock fuel pump, that's just me.

Furthermore, with FMAX, you are an upgraded exhaust housing, injectors, and MAF (fuel pump too?) from an easy 350whp. With a BB DET, you have to do injectors, manifold, turbo and MAF. A lot more money.

IMHO, if you will be satisfied with maxing out 370cc injectors (about 240whp) go with a BB DET setup. If you think you want more, then go FMAX. If you have time on your side, shop around and find used stuff and slowly piece together your kit- many have gone this route and were able to go turbo a lot cheaper. But the thing with turbo is, you don't think you want more until you actually feel boost! :D

I actually went back and forth about a BB or GTiR swap. I would like to use my DE cause I know it's history. Additionally: With these swaps don't I lose all of my OBDII emissions stuff because these are JDM motors? This might or might not affect me because here in MD we have emissions testing every 2 years. I don't know what the tolerance is, but I would hate to not pass. Keeping my OBDII happy ensures that I will. This might not be as big of a deal as I think either but, getting parts for these JDM motors could be expensive and time consuming. And now Matt4... is saying that a BB swap is difficult and expensive to do on a '98.

I was trying to do a custom T28 setup when I first decided to go turbo. It seemed to be highly recommended for a DE motor. But I started thinking: 1 - I say I want 230whp now, but I know that once I have 230 I'll want 240, then 250, etc. That's just the way we ALL are, if we were not we wouldn't be reading in this forum. With an FMAX stage 1 the stage 2 is just a small upgrade away and you don't touch the turbo - the expensive part. 2 - I hate to say it but I have had very few GOOD experiences when it comes to dealing with aftermarket (and even OEM) dealers. If I went with a custom setup I could be dealing with 1 dealer for the turbo, 1 for the manifold, 1 for the intercooler, etc. If experience has taught me anything it's "limit the amount to knuckleheads you have to deal with." F-Max kit = 1 knucklehead.

Anyone know the price difference between a turbonetics ball bearing t3t04e and the regular one? Is it worth it?

Well, the Fmax stage 1 is a waste of money IMO. If you are goin to get a FMAX kit, you want 350+ whp, not 230 whp. Get the Stage 2. If you only want 230 whp, get a DET. It's as simple as that.

Originally posted by 92SE-R
Well, the Fmax stage 1 is a waste of money IMO. If you are goin to get a FMAX kit, you want 350+ whp, not 230 whp. Get the Stage 2. If you only want 230 whp, get a DET. It's as simple as that.

Words well spoken:)

Originally posted by 92SE-R
Well, the Fmax stage 1 is a waste of money IMO. If you are goin to get a FMAX kit, you want 350+ whp, not 230 whp. Get the Stage 2. If you only want 230 whp, get a DET. It's as simple as that.

Yes, if you're gonna stay at 230whp, the FMAX Stg. I will cost about $1000+ more than a DET swap or T25/T28 conversion. But, what the FMAX kit gets you that a DET swap or small turbo setup doesn't is a solid base to seriously upgrade if you want to. That is well worth the $1000 premium.

Me personally, I am VERY satisfied with my DET swap at stock boost. I have an engine that is factory-certified and is actually less stressed than it would be in an actual Bluebird since I have a large frount mount and will be putting on a 3" exhaust to reduce backpressure.

If you're considering turbo, I'd highly recommend getting some rides in some different levels of Turbo SE-Rs if you can. Conventions and meets are a great way to get this accomplished.

Good luck,

Originally posted by 92SE-R
Well, the Fmax stage 1 is a waste of money IMO. If you are goin to get a FMAX kit, you want 350+ whp, not 230 whp. Get the Stage 2. If you only want 230 whp, get a DET. It's as simple as that.

Wellllll.... It's not as 'black & white' as you describe either. Other factors have to be considered such as:

How many miles is on your DE?
(I only had 49k, so the swap was out of the question)

What type of performance am I seeking, such as AutoX T25/28 style or Road Lapping?

If you don't race, then do you do a lot of city driving or freeway driving? T25/28=city --- T3/TO4E or variant=freeway

The biggest complaint I find AFTER someone has gone the T25/28 route is that while the engine builds boost fast it also drops off way before redline... Or they complain that they can't crank up the boost past 10psi...

I will say that you MUST consider the answers to these questions as well as more before you can truly be happy with what you end up with.

I love riding in a GTi-R powered classic as much as mine. I wish I could have the best of both worlds but I can't.

If your REALLY want the bang for the buck (and you answered low miles to my first question) keep the DE and find all the DET parts and install it on your DE. The guys that have done this for cheap make me jealous. I essentially pieced the Fmax kit this way and saved major $$$$. Besides doing an engine swap is quite involved. I am not knocking it because I have helped do them both.

Good Luck.

My car holds 9 psi of boost till redline.

mine held 14 psi to about 6500 rpm, where it fell to 12. 12, of course, held all the way to redline.

it went to 14 because i trusted my friend to watch the boost guage when i set my controller. all he said was "wow, it holds 14 psi almost all the way to redline" bastard.

Wait, I didn't mean it would hold boost all to way to redline I just mean the power peaks out way before.

Sure you can turn a T25 past 10 psi but how much is it being compromised? Others have stated you are quickly wearing it out. But again I don't want to get into an argument about which is better because my point was it depends on your wants. Neither is 'better' over the other. It's about compromise...