So, I'm quite sure I know what the culprit is, but could use someone to back up my idea.

The Problem: Car wont crank. No clicks, no struggling to start noises, nothing. Dash lights come on when attempting to start, but nothing.

Lights work, fans work, etc etc. When key is on accessory. Not a sound from the starter.

I did notice the last time it started, it was a bit weak.

Starter is less than 2 years old.

Am I right in thinking that since all accessories work, its not that battery and probably the starter again? Is there a solenoid or connection that could have come loose? I'm not an expert on starters by any means, but dont they gie a bit slower than this?

Thanks Guys!:biggthump

-Jerry

Check the switch under the dash that is pressed when the clutch is pressed in.

Good point eric. Also jack the car up and short the starter out.

Ah, the switch is a good idea! Ill try that.

What does shorting out the starter do? Does it build up charge or something? I assume by short you mean connecting the + and - wires on the starter?

Thanks alot guys!

Anyone else have any ideas/input?

Check the switch under the dash that is pressed when the clutch is pressed in.

This is the first place I'd look too. After that I'd check the ignition switch on the steering column. The starter itself is a possibility, but since it doesn't even click, I really doubt it's the problem.

I just had to hotwire the starter relay because the switch ground went bad, its the furthest relay back and ground out the brown wire. The swich I'm refering to is the one eric pointed out, it also does have a tendency to go bad. But, forwarned, the plug on the switch is a SONOFABITCH to get off, you need at least a pair of adjustable chanel lock (water pump) plyers.

Great, thanks guys. Anyone know off the top of their head how much those clutch switches go for?

Ill investigate tonight and let you know. Dont know what Id do without you guys.

.. the red positive terminal usually build up some acid from the yrs.. i had this happen to me on tuesday.. the car wouldnt turn on for shit.. the headlights berely worked... mind you i went over a speed bump an POW! car is off.. sooo i first thouht it was the battery.. in which it wasnt cause i had jumper cables an i connected to the terminals themselves... an still no juice... i then went to walmart bought a new batery an some acid nuturalizer i clenaed the battery tray then i cleaned the termnial throughly especially the red one i spray that shit way in there.... i put the old battery in an jump started it again.. an then u go it worked... i then put the new battery in so it wouldnt give m further problems an my old battery was wasted anyways an to prevent the starter from dying i said *** it an stayed with new battery

i hope this helps

Ah, the switch is a good idea! Ill try that.

What does shorting out the starter do? Does it build up charge or something? I assume by short you mean connecting the + and - wires on the starter?

Thanks alot guys!

Anyone else have any ideas/input?

To answer the shorting out the starter question...

Take a bump switch (press on, release off) and wire it so that one lead goes to positive terminal of the battery, and the other lead is spliced into the starter wire. Press the bump switch and the starter should engage and start the car.

Easiest way I know how to test a starter :)

IMO, If you can dump the clutch to start the car, and everything works just fine, then it's definitely your starter...

IMO, If you can dump the clutch to start the car, and everything works just fine, then it's definitely your starter...
No, definatly not, it could be the starter interupt swtich/relay.:rolleyes:

Im at my appt at school, so no garage or tools :( That sorta limits my options as of now.

Anyway, I checked the switch by the clutch, when pushing the switch in fully, by hand I still get nothing when trying to start the car. (that was quite a reach btw)

just had to hotwire the starter relay because the switch ground went bad, its the furthest relay back and ground out the brown wire. The swich I'm refering to is the one eric pointed out, it also does have a tendency to go bad. But, forwarned, the plug on the switch is a SONOFABITCH to get off, you need at least a pair of adjustable chanel lock (water pump) plyers.

In what relay box? Are we talking the ones in the engine bay or the few next to the fuse box in the dash? Thanks alot man.

It sucks being stranded without tools or a decent jack. Cant really get at the starter too well from above the car. Sighh :rant:

Thanks in Advance guys. I owe you! :bowdown:

Thanks for the clarification Ninety-Nine, my thinking right now is that if it does start when shorted, the relay is bad right? So what I did is replaced the clutch Inhibit relay (That is the right one correct?) with one of the fan relays, which was the same color and still no luck.

Any ideas on any trouble shooting I can do without getting under the car? Like I said, I have No-Tools or Jack until I get home, which is 1.5hrs away. Quite the predicament I'm in.

As soon as I get home Ill try Tekkie and SENTRASER's methods for a permanent fix.

I may end up just having someone push my car and dumping the clutch to get it started. Hopefully I don't need to shut off the engine on the way.

I just had to hotwire the starter relay because the switch ground went bad, its the furthest relay back and ground out the brown wire. The swich I'm refering to is the one eric pointed out, it also does have a tendency to go bad. But, forwarned, the plug on the switch is a SONOFABITCH to get off, you need at least a pair of adjustable chanel lock (water pump) plyers.

Im assuming your talking about the relay box right to the left of the battery correct? and the "Clutch Inhibit" realy. Also, would you happen to know what prong on that relay connects to the brown wire. I was thinking for now I could just take a length of wire with a connector on the end and ground the prong that way. Does that sound feasible?

I appreciate it!

No, definatly not, it could be the starter interupt swtich/relay.:rolleyes:

Had no idea. Thanks. :) I assumed it would be just the starter, because you're bypassing everything and getting direct current from power source. The way I remember it is positive terminal to signal wire on starter. Once this connection is completed, the starter is getting the signal it needs and attempts to crank.

If you can get the plug out of the switch on the clutch, you can just put a paperclip inbetween the two terminals and bypass the switch, althoug the plug is a BITCH to get out, I ended up breaking the switch off to get the plug out. You cant really hotwire the relay at all, because the same wire supplys ground which I think is what you're giving to the starter. If you can get the plug off the switch, you're golden. Yes the relay box by the battery, its the one that says "interupt". The only real way you can bypass it at the relay box is to get the box off of there, and get a probe wire in the bottom of it and put it to the ground terminal. If you can get someone to bump start you that would work too! Best of luck.
http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V46293744~C3493~R0~OB0~P2R1H~N/0/34870051/56619938/56619944/56619946/34853741/34863246/34863686/34864056/34850416/114269136/41968251

If you can hotwire to the positive terminal this Black/Yellow(B/Y on the diagram) wire to the battery with the key in the on position, then it should start!
http://www.sr20forum.com/gallery/data/732/starter.JPG

Had no idea. Thanks. :) I assumed it would be just the starter, because you're bypassing everything and getting direct current from power source. The way I remember it is positive terminal to signal wire on starter. Once this connection is completed, the starter is getting the signal it needs and attempts to crank.
No prob, your idea is correct too, just that I know from expierence that the B13's clutch and brake pedal switches are total crap.
The Starter has 2 wires, main power and a small positive signal wire. Shorting the starter means you run a positive feed to the signal wire and the starter will crank no matter what (unless the starter is dead).
Correct, and my above method basicly does that but without having to go all the way down to the starter. The Y/B wire is the wire that feeds power to the starter solinoid.:biggthump

Wow!! Thanks alot SENTRASER, I really appreciate you going through the trouble of getting that diagram. I looked through my digital FSM a bit, but didn't find that schematic.

I think Ill try to get the plug of the switch first, seems like the least invasive, that is if I can actually get it off. Any advice you can give me for getting it off? Im guessing it has a tab somewhere that needs to be pressed in, in order to get it off? Or is it a different style connector? I'm sure once you got yours off you realized you just needed to squeeze it a certain way right? Happens to me with some plugs that you cant see but need to disconnect.

Ill try this tonight and let you know what happens!

Thanks Again!

-Jerry

Wow!! Thanks alot SENTRASER, I really appreciate you going through the trouble of getting that diagram. I looked through my digital FSM a bit, but didn't find that schematic.

I think Ill try to get the plug of the switch first, seems like the least invasive, that is if I can actually get it off. Any advice you can give me for getting it off? Im guessing it has a tab somewhere that needs to be pressed in, in order to get it off? Or is it a different style connector? I'm sure once you got yours off you realized you just needed to squeeze it a certain way right? Happens to me with some plugs that you cant see but need to disconnect.

Ill try this tonight and let you know what happens!

Thanks Again!

-Jerry
No prob Jerry, I figure what comes around goes around so when I need help maybe someone will respond with help. :)
The plug is in fact satan, it only comes off if you use a pair of chanel locks, and its somewhat of a crappy angle, what I would do if I was you would be to clip the wires with enough length to patch back together and strip the insuluation and twist them together to see if it starts. You can then unscrew the switch and proceed to remove the plug without being constraind to behind the pedals.

No prob Jerry, I figure what comes around goes around so when I need help maybe someone will respond with help. :)
The plug is in fact satan, it only comes off if you use a pair of chanel locks, and its somewhat of a crappy angle, what I would do if I was you would be to clip the wires with enough length to patch back together and strip the insuluation and twist them together to see if it starts. You can then unscrew the switch and proceed to remove the plug without being constraind to behind the pedals.


Lol Satan huh? damn. I'll try that, and if the switch is toast, maybe Ill jsut leave the wires connected. Solder them up and tape them of course. (Im not THAT cheap) If the switches are cheap Ill buy one however.

Looks like It will be tomorrow until I get outside to fix that b*tch. Its currently 10 degrees out right now in Central WI. Remind me why people live here :confused:

Thanks Again.

-Jerry