Ok--this is a bummer. I go and pick up my car tonight only to find out that BOTH Cv joints are blown! The boots on the outsides are shreaded. Is there a site out there that explains how this is done? Can someone point me in the right direction? Any tips on how to do it? What parts do I need?

Thanks!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

some info here:http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16576&highlight=axle

I just replaced mine. Believe it or not, it's not that hard (as long as you have some impact tools to get the hub nut off)

Matt

I only owned the car for 2 hours and have an issue. I went out tonight to try to get the tires off...I couldn't even get the lug nuts to come off. They are so F-ing tight. I don't know what to do. I looked at it again and noticed that it really is just the boots. The actual CV joint appears to be in good shape and does not click one bit.

How much am I looking at to have the boots replaced versus the axles?

Thanks!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

Ooh ooh ooh...

http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17796

:D

I paid $600.00 cdn to replace both cv joints.
It was either cv joints or hotshot header.

hey shumax...here's a little tip on those lugnuts!

Slide a pipe over the end of your lug wrench. Leverage is king! You'll be able to get those lugs off in no time, with one arm!

Good luck!

Put anti-sieze on those bad boys...

I found a boot replacement kit for both outer axles on ebay for $10, its still sitting in my garage though....

To get a new boot on, you still have to remove and take apart the axle.... - we decided to bite the bullet and pay $70 for a replacement axle, I don't think its worth my heartache in labor to do just the boots, and with my luck, the fugger would start clicking an hour after replacing the boots!

chris

oh ya - autozone is where I got the replacment.

I tried axles at a junkyard once, don't waste your time, I went to install one the other day and one of the two joints is completely frozen won't budge at all. For $50 they make nice cores but still...

I thought I'd share my experiences with CV joints here. I have replaced tons of them, in my eighteen years with Nissan. Here are a few cautions: Yes the local auto store chain sells reman. axles for about $59.00 And yes they are OK sometimes. But all too many times, they are not quite right, and are either too stiff, or have a tight spot, etc. Then you'll have a vibration in corners, or a steering wheel that won't return to center by itself. I got on a few websites and found out how they are rebuilt. Basically, the procedure used to reman. them is up to the rebuilder's "seat of the pants" feel, after eyeballing the joint. There are .001" larger balls to stick in and take up the slop, or they can machine out the ball sockets, which removes some of the hardening from the socket. There are definate limits to how many times a CV joint can be rebuilt. Without boring you with the details, let me say this: The best CV's in my opinion, are the factory originals in your SE-R. If the boot fails, [and it will], you need to catch it quickly, and replace the boot. If so, the O.E. joints seemingly will last as long as the car will. But if not, I would always prefer to get a good set of used [never damaged] O.E. CV's or a new Nissan outer joint, which is about $100. I just got my '92 SE-R [96-k miles] and the previous owner just had both axle assy'd replaced with reman units. The receipt was in the glovebox, for like $500, [yes, he was soaked, the mech. made about $400 for about an hour's work]. The car drives fine, until pushed real hard. I recently ran at an open track day at Watkins Glen, and on hard right hand turns, I get a terrible vibration in the steering wheel. It turned out to be the crappy reman. driver's side axle. I put in a new Nissan one, and it's fine. Lastly, what's worse in my opinion, is that people don't want to get dirty by replacing an axle boot, so when they have a torn boot, they take out their good original axles, turn them in as cores, and then gamble on the remans. It isn't worth it to me. Think about it, for $59.00 how much can be done? They disassemble, clean, repaint, and replace both boots and clamps. How much money is left to "rebuild" anything? Oh, and have you ever noticed, that when you get a reman. axle assy, that the metal dust sheilds are always missing? They bend them upon removing them, and then just throw them out! I hope this helps some of you. There's nothing like the good O.E. stuff!

I ended up getting axles from RAXLES.COM. They are brand new units made in germany. I wanted the OEM, but couldn't find them. I figured that since these were new and had a lifetime warranty that I would be ok.

Now, the biggest fear I have is that I can't get the things back in the car. Call me a baby, but I don't think I will be able to get that drivers side in. Then today I read that somone said the passengers side is the hard one. Heck, if I am having trouble with the drivers side, I might as well hang my hat up and say f-it.

Luckily the car is a toy---I don't care if it sits for two weeks, I drive a company car--thank god. If push comes to shove there is a mechanic in town that said he would come over for $50 and put them in. Then I would have to reassemble the hardware and put it all back together. That makes me mad to spend $50, but I am not sure what else to do. That clip on the drivers side CV cpline is causing me fits. I will have my new axles this Thursday. I don't know about the axle seals. Mine look fine. I want to replace them, but ***** has them and it takes 10 days to get them.

Any advise on the instal? Pics would be unreal. I need to see some photos.

Thanks,
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

Shumax, call me tommorow at work, 8594853129 I'll ship you my spare set, order a set that takes 10 days and ship them to me whenever you get them....

As for the drivers side axle - I've gotten them in by hand and by brute force, get the fugger in as far as you can by hand and press it so there is no play in the joint - use a board and a rubber mallet and tap tap tappity the axle on in....

Passenger side LITTERALY falls in, its the bolts that hold it in.

Chris

MauiBlueGride is right. The pass side axle slips right in. It can be tricky to get the driver's side in all the way, due to the additional splines on the axle, to engage the viscous coupling [that most cars don't have]. A good tip is to make sure the c-clip is centered in the splines [wheel bearing grease helps here] when you go to install it into the trans. The axle seals rarely need replacement, unless you damaged them while removing the old axle. I either tie up the spindle/ brake rotor assy. out of the way, or have someone hold it out of the way, while I put the axle in, twisting it back and forth to get the splines to engage, and drive it in with a plastic dead-blow hammer. You do not have to hammer for all you're worth. If it doesn't go right in, either the c-clip or the splines are not lined up properly. There are two sets of splines to engage on an SE-R, so make sure you get it in all the way. If the c-clip gets damaged or bent, you must replace it. Most importantly, make sure the axle is centered in the trans. before you start hammering away. If you don't support it properly, and the axle is hanging crooked under it's own weight, it will never pop in. Hope this helps. Oh, and don't forget to refill the transaxle, when you're done.

That was some good information. I still don't understand how that clip works. I mean, when I look in the tranny with the axle out, I see two sets of teeth. The first goes about 1" back and then there is a split and then another 1" of teeth and then a bar running straight down the middle of the tranny---is that for the limited slip?

I think that the shaft makes it past the first set of teeth and then the clip drags on that opening b/t the two sets of teeth. Because it drags, it can't get over the ledge that leads to the second set of teeth. If that gap wasn't there, I think it would be MUCH easier. I don't know much about the mechanics of that is going on in there---I am sure that gap is needed though or Nissan wouldn't have put it there:)

Can someone explain the frozen grease? I assume you take some grease and put it on the clip and then put that in the freezer for a while. Then take it out and center it on the spline of the shaft with the hope that it will stay centered on the spline as you shove it in?!?

I don't know---something about beating or choving hard on a joint that goes into the tranny that makes my knees shake. I was happy to hear that most of you said you just tappy-tap-tap it in there without much problem. God I hope that I am that lucky.

I order the seals, the C-Clip and the reverse switch from Courtesy. That order and the axles will be here by Friday. I may try all of this on Sunday afternoon, we'll see though.

Thanks again!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

Hey Chris---
Thanks for the offer. However, courtesy came through for me---I hope. We'll see once I have the seals in my hand and then in the tranny. I gave them the VIN number and they *said* they looked it up to be sure. Guess I will just have to wait and see, huh?


More from me on Sunday, I am sure. I just hope that it's good news.

Thanks again all!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

Hey Shumax, you're in luck. I just changed mine about a week ago. Yes, the driver side is the pain because of the clip. You just have to get some crow bar and pry it out. You WILL have some fluid dripping out, less than half of quart unless you jack the car up about 45 degree. That was too scary for me. BTW, mine is an automatic. The passenger side is a cinch to get out. You need a 12 mm socket to take out the 3 bolts on the bearing carrier. Here are my steps:

Driver's side:
1) Jack up real high, take out wheel.
2) Remove brake hose from strut.
3) Take out the 2 bolts holding the strut to the hub(17 mm)
4) Take out the the locking pin on the bearing nut, take out the nut(32 mm!!!) Thank god for impact wrench!!!
5) Don't take the nut all the way out yet, just enough so you can hammer out the axle.
6) The hub can now be remove.
7) use a crow bar or pry bar to get the axle out. It take some force because of the clip.

Passenger's side:
1) Follow step 1 through 6 above.
2) Remove the 3 bolts holding the axle to the carrier(12 mm). Pretty easy to get out.
3) The whole thing should slide right out with a little tapping outward on the part of axle that is on the carrier.
4) No fluid dripping out on the passenger side for me.

I really wish I had my digital camera with me that weekend. If you have anymore questions, ask. Good luck.

Cool---thanks for the info. I ended up getting them both out late on Sunday night. I ordered axles from RAXLES.COM and seals, and a reverse switch from Rodger at Courtesy Nissan. Now I am fearing slapping that drivers side CV back in because of the stupid clip. I am some what comfortable with the passengers side as it basically just fell out when I took out those three bolts. However, that drivers side is worrying me quite a bit.

I hope to attack it again this Sunday afternoon. Any tips for getting the drivers side in?

Thanks!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

Originally posted by shumax
I hope to attack it again this Sunday afternoon. Any tips for getting the drivers side in?


I have a couple:

- make sure the circlip on the end of the axle is centered, and to keep it this way during the install a little bit of grease should help. I've heard of people freezing the grease to make it really stiff, helping keep the clip centered better.

- I was only able to get mine to completely seat in the transmission after I got it started (to get the splines lined up), then lined up the entire axle in a straight line (I think I had to move the strut over a bit by loosening the top bolts), and hit the end of the axle with a hammer (protecting the end with wood). A couple hits with the hammer and it popped right in.

I was completely unable to simply try to push the axle in by hand, the hammer did the trick.

Aaron

The contributors to this thread have given great info. There isn't much more you could add to it. I just wanted to share two more ideas. First, in two of the posts, [one of them mine], it is said to twist the axle back and forth to engage the splines before hammering it in. I just want to say, that if you do not do this, you run the great risk of damaging the soft splines on the axle, after trying to hammer it in. If that happens, you can usually re-file the grooves in the splines with a small triangle file. [Those of us who have done alot of axles, have all been there.] Secondly, when installing the pass. side axle, [the one that just slips in, and is secured by the bearing collar], coat the collar with never seize compound. The next guy to take out that axle will thank you for it! Those of us here in the road salt states, can appreciate this.

"Secondly, when installing the pass. side axle, [the one that just slips in, and is secured by the bearing collar], coat the collar with never seize compound. The next guy to take out that axle will thank you for it! Those of us here in the road salt states, can appreciate this."

Dang, forgot to do this on mine. I'm usually big fan of anti-seize. Oh well.

Hey! This was a very informative thread! An Oldie but a Goodie


After reading through this I have decided to disassemble and reassemble my OEM drive axles instead of having them rebuilt for $50 a side. I totally agree with the above statements that OEM axles can last the life of the car and you are much better off caring for them then say purchasing Autozone half-ass replacements.
Of course if I notice any bluing or heavy ware inside my OEM CV's then a rebuild will be inevitable, but that still remains to be seen.
Overall I think its worth the risk and I'm resourceful enough to appreciate the knowledge gained and money saved by doing this project myself.

Just My Humble Opinion :rolleyes: