Hey everyone, im about to purchase an SR20DE powered car...the NX2000.

It's a 92 manual....just wanted as much input as I can get here before I go to inspect it. Please let me know common problems with the car i should be aware of that many of you have had.

Any info on ways of telling if something is probably bad with the tranny or engine while being test droven let me know what I should look for or feel, see....etc.

thanx to all who give their valid input. appreciate it.

5th gear popout would be on the top of my list. Threw her into fifth and give it gas, on an uphill if you can to load that tranny up. If it pops out, you will need a used/rebulit/new tranny. Check the spare tire well for rust. check to see if the AC works. Check for rust on the bottom of the Apillar and the rear wheel well. Check for ripped CV boots. The motor mounts may be gone (engine will move arond and make *** car buck during throttle transitions. This is an easy cheap fix but may help bring down the price) Check to see that both windows go donw and up properly.
Enjoy your NX!

Those are some top things to watch for alright. Here are a few more.

Has the water pump been changed?
has the timing chain tensioner been changed?
If the engine makes tapping noises from the head, you may need to replace Hydrolic adjusters.
2 & 4th gear baulk rings in teh trany go bad (crunch into 2nd & 4th when getting on the gas hard).
All wheel bearings.

That's about all I can think of right now. There are always things to deal with when buying a used car. Don't let these things scare you though. Look under the car, in engine bay and behind carpet panels in trunk for frame damage from a possible accident. That's a good reason to avoid this car. As an NX2000 is a blast to drive and own.

Cossie

look to see if the front spoiler is there, every NX I have looked at is missing one, and it is like a 400 dollar part.

Sam

:D Great ideas guys!! im making a list right now...ill be testing and examining the car this sunday.


-cossie i never knew we had timing tensioners on our engines...what are those exactly, im guessing internal maybe or can anything be seen from outside the engine, where on the chain are they?


and isnt the front spoiler just the entire front piece on the nx? or something else that im not thinking of?

The chain tensioner is pretty easy to find. From the passenger front fender, looking at the oil filter you will see a flat plat with 2 small bolts to the right of the filter on the engine. The plate is about the size of an egg. I asked a million questions before I replaced mine. It turned out to be pretty easy to do, just a little time consuming. In a nut shell, you will remove the valve cover, oil filter and tensioner. You will learn the importance of not over tightening the 2 small bolts on the tensioner, ;) well actually, I hope you won't learn that lesson. If you need more info, e-mail me or post for more info.

Cossie

holy shit!! now i know what all you sr20 guys are always talking about, I love that car!! the tranny is perfect aswell as the engine except for holding a charge (***** replace the alt. and starter along with battery real soon) its got a bit over 117k, feels good though.

it's cosmetically in the crap can, not too bad but, its got ttops so im excited about that, some interior damage a crack in the front windshield (just a line not a smash) and a few chips in front piece, hood is perfect aswell as sides except for rear back left along with light housing.

along with these it clicks when turning so it needs a new axle on the right side. but besides these minor things...its a great project car for the price!!

before you go replacing the CV joint, check the sway bar end link, the bolt part that goes thru the control arm just inboard of the ball joint. both sides cost me 80 bux canadian, i thought it was the CV joint oo, but check this to be sure

thanks but no, its the cv joint...ive installed my own st swaybars on my nx1600 and i know what your talking about. but the sway bar endlinks would not click at the same rpms as this....you can tell the difference between the 2. the endlinks would only click once or twice when taking turns because of the rot away of the rubber bushungs that come factory. the cv joint clicks a repitition the whole way through the turn. very noticible.

80 bux canadian still sounds like too much...all you needed was to replace the bushings for like 10 bux from a pepboys or any other autoparts store. and thats for nice urethane ones. think they ripped you off man. thanks for lookin out though bro.

the 80 bux was for the endlink metal part too, better to be safe than sorry! I am putitng the ES set in now so it will be urethane soon!

did you buy the whole set for your car? how har is it to replace the motor mounts?

depends on what det you have, you seem to be online now U have icq or messenger?

set, what set you have not det im sure you're not quite there yet! :D

no, im not det at all yet, but so far im happy, shes stock, just like her motor mounts that look like they need to be replaced. i meant did you buy get the entire set they make of ES bushings/urethane pieces they make for our cars. not just the endlinks...:D

yes, I got the ES master set (includes F+R control arm bushings, F+R sway bar bushings, shifter bushings), plus stuff not included in the set (motor mounts, steering rack bushings). My car has been off the road for 3 weeks if you wnat to know how long it will take! Do the motor mounts right away, makes a huge difference, may take an afternoon ot do and real real cheap