I got the drivers side out, but the passenger side is not going well. I see this pilot bearing thingy in the middle of the axle. I see 3 bolts. Someone told to remove those bolts and then take out the axle. I am confused. Will the entire shaft including that pilot bearing, or will just the half shaft come out that is about 12" long that is connected to the pilot bearing? I would love to see pictures if anyone has any.


Also, do I need to remove the balljoint? I had the hardest time and finally said F-it and took apart the strut to knuckle and swung it out of the way. I am not sure how easy it will go back together. Do I need to remove the balljoint?

I tried to put the new CV in the drivers side and I can't get the F-ing thing to go in more than 1/2. That C-clip is not working for me at all. I am starting to wish I hadn't touched this. My car is in the garage in 50 pieces and I have ***** around me that can help.

Can someone please take 20min. and give me step by step directions how to do this entire process? What's this frozen greese process with that clip?!?! Any pics would be GREAT!!!!

Anyone near Manfield Ohio? I'll give $75 to put these fucking things back in!

Curt B. Shumaker

Ok, man, chill. I had my whole tranny out, case off and apart playing with gears, and back in the car in 3 hours twice this week. It's not bad.

To get the driver's axle back in, grease the end of the axle that goes in the tranny. It should bump in by hand. Just a few shoves and it should pop in. THE GREASE MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE.

The passenger side is a piece of cake. With the three 12mm bolts out of the support bearing (the bolts with heads pointing toward the driver's side, NOT the ones holding the bracket to the block), the axle should pull out by hand. If it doesn't come out easily, then it is stuck in the bearing. Get a hammer and rotate the passenger side half of that bearing where the bolts go thru. That should give you flat spots to hit to bang it out of the support bearing.

To get enough clearance to get the axles out of the hubs, you just need to remove the two strut to hub knuckle bolts (17mm) and the brake line clip and move the brake line under the strut.

Need anything else? If you are still stuck I can take pics for you.

I don't have the new anxles yet...should be here this week. I am about to post some pics of this adventure. What should I order at the Nissan Dealer for parts---the two seals for the tranny case and the c-clip? Anyone have part numbers?


Maybe the grease is the trick. However, I couldn't get the old shaft back in on the drivers side to save my life. I pulled the clip and it went in about 1" and then stopped again. Oh well, I will wait till I have my new axles.

I did get the passengers side out...thanks for the help with that!


Curt B. Shumaker

Here are the pics. I have to go get a stitch or two in my lip. Dropped the pry bar about 6" to hit my lip---broke it wide open. Anyway, take a look at these pics.

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/shumax/lst?.dir=/SE-R+Search&.src=ph&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/shumax/lst%3f%26.dir=/SE-R%2bSearch%26.src=ph%26.view=t


Who should I order the axles from? Raxles? Any other suggestions? Whats this frozen greese trick? I need more tips on how to get it back in when I have my axles.

Thanks!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

Originally posted by shumax
What should I order at the Nissan Dealer for parts---the two seals for the tranny case and the c-clip? Anyone have part numbers?

Consider this, my buddy got the wrong seal 5 times! All different part numbers from the parts store. I called the local dealer, they asked for my VIN#, and got the right ones first time. They're cheap, I think around $10 or so each. Don"t F around.

I pulled the clip and it went in about 1" and then stopped again.

Don"t even think about not using the clip, I did and it was a mistake. Everything seamed cool until we tightened the axle bolt, and the tranny fluid started leaking out of the seal. Without the clip, the axle pulls out a bit, and doesn't seal properly.

Chris
I did get the passengers side out...thanks for the help with that!

This place seems to be pretty cheap:

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/cvaxles.ivnu

Looks like you were repairing the passenger side?

Grease the hell out out the driver's side axle splines that go into the tranny. To get past the clip give it a one, two, THREE! motion. shove, Shove, SHOVE! kind of rocking motion like you are swinging something heavy 3 times to throw it the farthest, sort of. You will make the axle, tap, Tap, CLUNK! when you shove it in. Make sense? Wish I could be there to show you how, but hopefully my words make sense. Just make sure you don't knock the car off the jackstands! I nearly did that with ProjectSE-R's car :)

So when I am shoving this CV joint back in on the drivers side, where do I "grab" it at? Do I grab it at the end of the joint that goes into the hub, or do I grab it closer to the point where it goes into the tranny? Why on earth do we have to shove it so hard that it almost knocks the car off of the jack stands? I can't imagine having enough room to build up enough momentum in order to get that thing going fast enough to go into the tranny.

Does anyone have any pics of this process? I would die to see some as I am having a hard time picturing it all in my head.

Thanks!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

No--I am replacing both of them. What made you think I was going to repair that one? Teh passengers side didn't even have a boot left when I pulled it. The drivers side did, but it's craked all to hell.

If I have trouble with the clip on the driver's side, I make sure the axle is in a straight line, no joints bent, and use a hammer to tap it in. Make sure to grease the splines going into the tranny. Ben is right, it helps. You won't need to grease the passenger side, but I use anti-seize on the center bearing where it goes into the support. This lubes it up a little, and also makes it easier if you need to remove the axle again. The driver's side axle seal is easy to replace. The passenger side is a complete B%&ch. Its very hard to get it lines up and straight with the crossmember in the car. I messed up 3 before I said F it. Make sure not to hammer it all the way in. The hard part of it needs to be flush with the case. Buy them from the dealer. Advance sold me the wrong ones. The passenger side seal is $5.00 from Courtesy. As for the axles themselves, have you called AutoZone, or Advance? Their axles have a lifetime warranty. if it breaks, you either bring the old one in, and they swap it out for you, or you buy a new one, and they give you your money back once you bring the broken one in.

All this is not a hard job. Once you do it, its easier the next time. I can R&R an axle in about 10 minutes now. That's what happens when you have a cracked tranny case, and you replace axle seals thinking that's the problem :(

LOL @ Eric!!!
I did the exact same thing when I cracked my tranny :) I have done my axles at least 150 times :)

Originally posted by eric96ser
If I have trouble with the clip on the driver's side, I make sure the axle is in a straight line, no joints bent, and use a hammer to tap it in.

One a 93 Celica GT, which also has that stupid clip on the drivers side, I was able to get it started going in, but could not finish it by hand. I used a big ass screwdriver and a hammer to finish tapping it into place. The point here is to at least start it by hand so you know it is lined up correctly.


Shumax,
your garage isn't that messy yet. When I replaced the front hubs, wheel bearings, and axle seals in the Celica we had shit all over the place. I was getting lost there was so much stuff lying around.

Trust me, it was a mess. I cleaned and organized everything so that I don't forget where it goes. Wanna make the 45min. trip north to help me?

Thanks,
Curt B. Shumaker

If you think that place is cheap, you are wrong. This is what I got back from them this morning:

hi
the cost for stage 2 axles for that car are 650.00 plus around 20.00
for
shipping. the axles are new units and have a 3 month warrenty.


>From: Curt Shumaker <shumax@yahoo.com>
>To: driveshaftshop@hotmail.com
>Subject: Axles....
>Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 02:57:10 -0700 (PDT)
>
>I need a set of axles for a 1993 Sentra Se-R. I need
>both drivers and passengers side. The car doe not
>have ABS and is a 5spd.
>
>Do your axles carry a lifetime warranty? How long
>will they take to ship to 44906? What would the total
>charge be?
>

For some reason they thought you were talking about Stage II racing axles. Of course those aren't the ones you want. Email them and ask for standard, rebuilt axles- the ones that they have advertised for $59 on their website.

Ben was probably referring to this page http://www.driveshaftshop.com/cvaxles.ivnu

In my opinion, you should just make a few calls to the local PepBoys/Advance/BigA, or whatever you have in your neck of the woods. Complete axles usually sell for around $80, or $60 when they're on sale. Your new car is in pieces, and you want to get it on the road. Get the parts locally, even if it costs a few $ extra. And as I suggested in an earlier post, get your axle seals from your local dealer, I've heard too many stories of people getting the wrong seals.

Lastly, did you loose much fluid when you pulled the axles? You need to be aware that our cars require GL4 fluid, which is nearly impossible to find locally. I looked, and like others, could only find GL5, which is corrosive to yellow metals (brass etc). Search the forum, and the se-r mailing list archives for more info.

I wound up buying Redline MT-90 which seemed to get unanimous thumbs up from all the SE-R guys who use it. If you do a complete fluid change, you'll need about 4 quarts (I think the spec is 7.2q), and be aware that the drain and fill plugs can be a BITCH to remove. Since I had the time, I bought the Redline from www.myoilshop.com for $6.30/quart (it was $11 locally), using the dealer code number of 675421. See here for more info http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17735&highlight=redline+dealer+code

Stay cool, and you'll get everything put back together. And one other suggestion, please don't take this the wrong way, but don't open so many threads for the same problem. Trying to follow your CV saga (and other trial and tribulations) across so many threads has my head spinning. :) Keep it on one thread, and it'll be easier on everyone, including you!

Cheers,
Chris

You make decent points--sorry for opening so many threads.

The car is a just a toy so I don't drive it everyday. I ended up ordering axles from RAXLES.COM. Marty there is very nice and seems to know what he is talking about. They should be here by Thursday of this week---we'll see.


I am still waiting for someone to post pics of the install or to even give more tips for getting the drivers side back in. Why is it that the passengers side is so tough? Mine about fell out once I removed the three bolts. I figured it would be semi easy to go back in.

Finally, what type of grease should I buy for the splines? I did order Redline fluid and have it in my garage ready to go.

Thanks again!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

Mobil 1 synth grease- the all-purpose grease of the Gods.

Originally posted by shumax
Trust me, it was a mess. I cleaned and organized everything so that I don't forget where it goes. Wanna make the 45min. trip north to help me?

Thanks,
Curt B. Shumaker

I would if I had time, but I am afraid I do not (I take evening classes after work). Sorry.

How about Sunday afternoon?