Take a look at this site and in particular to pictures 5160029 & 5160026. The first is the shot of the passengers side axle going into the tranny and the second is the drivers side going into the tranny. I was able to tap them in with some mild force and some patience. That grey metal piece sits firmly against the seal on the drivers side. However, there is a 1/2" gap between the black casing and the seal on the tranny, should that be there? I would assume so because everything went back together without and problems.

Please give me your input. I haven't drive it yet because I want to make sure you all think I have them in all the way!

Thanks!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"


http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/shumax/lst?&.dir=/Axle+Adventure&.src=ph&.view=t&start=1&.rand=51701250120

that looks good to me.

Awww, come on. I was only ripping this place apart 5 days ago with to many posts about this topic. There has to still be some interest in how it turned out?:D

hey good job now next time it will be much easier for you the key is to have patience and take your time no rushing and dont get frustrated, now i should take my own advice when i get frustrated i usually break stuff:(
Sean

Looks good to me...got a couple questions though. I have to perform this also, as the boots on both sides are torn wide open. What was the procedure you took? I was told to just unbolt the strut housing/spindle assembly, slide the axle out, then pull in out from the spindle. Are there any tips or things that may be a pain? How long was the removal and installation overall? Thanks a bunch.

Well first of all, throw away that f-ing Haynes manual. For someone who has done nothing but car detailing and tune-ups, that thing sucked.

I jacked the car up and took off the wheels. Make sure the car is supported well with jackstands. Then I took a LONG piece of wood and jammed it b/t the seat and the brake pedal to keep the rotor from turning while I was trying to free the hub nut. Then I took a piece of 3' pipe and slipped it over my 1/2 socket wrench, with the 32mm socket that I rented from autozone, and got the hub nut off. Next I moved to the strut-to-knuckle bolts and loosened them up. Don't let me mislead you---those hub bolts are TIGHT and will take some time, if not air tools.

After I had the HUB bolt and the strut-to-knuckle bolts off, I pulled the strut off to the right and swung the hub down and to the right. Immediately the spline of the CV fell out of the hub.

Next I climbed under the car with a crow bar and pryed out the drivers side CV. This took me some time and patience as I thought I was going to break something. Finally, it popped out and so did a crap load of fluid. I would suggest draining the fluid first unless you don't plan on changing it while you are down there.

Next I went to the passengers side and removed the three bolts and the joint literally fell out of the tranny. Next I removed the reverse switch and even more fluid came out. I finally got smart and drained the rest of what was in the case:)

To install, I put some anti-seeze on the passengers side that goes around that bearing where the three bolts are, and then greased the spline that goes into the tranny. I then lined it up and gave it a SLIGHT push and it literally dropped in. The drivers side? I greased the spline up and centered the C-Clip on the end of the spline with some grease. I got it lined up and level and shoved it as hard as I could. It popped in about 1/2 way. Then I took a small piece of wood and placed it over the end of the spline that goes into the hub, not the tranny, and I tapped it with a hammer about 12 times and it went all the way into the tranny box.

Then I basically reintalled the hub to the spline, tightened the strut-to-knuckle bolts and called it done. I haven't driven it yet because I am waiting on the reverse switch to come in. Once that's in, I will full it with the redline fluid and take it for a spin. If it leaks, I am driving it off of a cliff:D

Hope that helps!
Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

Don't ask! You have to keep in mind that I had sir tools, but didn't use them. I have never done a project like this either. If I had to do it over, I would say it would take me 2-3 hours, going slow and cautiously.

The first time? It took about 6.

If it was going to take me 6 hours I would just bring it to a garage. That is just to long and doesnt make any economical sense to me. WEll, except the learning factor...which is priceless. Why did you want to do it on your own anyhow? without anyone around to help? It doesnt seem like you saved that much money did you?

I hate those manuals too. Makes me feel iliteret.

Hehehehehe.

Well, let's see. The local shop was going to use shitty axles from AUTOZONE and charge me $400 to do it.

I paid $325 for RAXLES Axles and actually learned how to do it. So I saved $100, got better axles and learned how to do it. Not to mention that the car is a toy and not a daily driver.


Now does it make sense?

Curt B. Shumaker
"SHUMAX"

Then I took a LONG piece of wood and jammed it b/t the seat and the brake pedal to keep the rotor from turning while I was trying to free the hub nut.

Why not break loose the hub nuts while the car is on the ground?
Just my .02 cents. If this is the wrong way PLEASE let me know.


This is not a hard thing to do. Since it was your first time I trully understand the frustrations you went through. The next time will be ten times easier.

The pics look good to me. I just traveled this road about three weeks ago.

Good Luck.
Alex