: moving battery to trunk
TUNED200 05-18-2002, 04:26 PM i need to know if there are any holes in the fire wall to run my wires through. also what type of cable should i use, i have fosgate 4 gague power wire from my amp that was in my other car. how do i hook it all up, where do i ground it, any info is appreicated. i have a fuse block with a 200 amp fuse. Bria
muleman 05-19-2002, 12:36 AM summit racing has like 3 diffrent battery relocator kits my was 49$ come with everything * need .
ProjectSE-R 05-21-2002, 10:51 AM HAHA, this is funny. When I was having starter drama, like killed 3 in as many weeks, I changed all the wiring. The drama happened about 2 weeks after I put the battery in the trunk. I have 4 gauge for ground running from the thermostat housing with a gold connector to the battery then 4 gauge runnign from the battery to the trunk floor. I finally used ot or 0 gauge wire for the power wire and hooked it all together up fron with a 3 way STINGER distribution block. I also used an Autozone special, 9.99 battery box. It hasnt failed me yet! Volt gauge reads 14.3 all the time. Yeah, its overkill, but I was searching for 2 weeks to find the cause of all of the starters dying. :rolleyes:
Sub_Function 05-21-2002, 12:46 PM This is going to sound stupid but who cares,
Why do people relocate there batterys into the truck?
I know most of my friends do it for space in the Engine compartment, but why do you all do it?
Just wondering
:)
ProjectSE-R 05-21-2002, 08:53 PM Well, I did it because the way my intake is positioned with the JWT POP coming right off the turbo, basically there was no way in hell I could have gotten a "D" battery in there. I am not using the stock BB rubber boot either, its a chrome polished intake pipe and it sets the POP almost against the fender where the battery sat.
TUNED200 05-21-2002, 09:42 PM project, do you think 4 gague is too small then? Brian
ProjectSE-R 05-22-2002, 10:15 AM Originally posted by TUNED200
project, do you think 4 gague is too small then? Brian
Not at all, in fact that is as big as you should go. The only reason that I put 0 gauge as the power wire is I was having major electrical drama somewhere between the ignition switch and the signal wire to the starter. I found out that my aftermarket alarm somehow dsabled/fried my factory alarm, and the 12V signal for the starter is run through the same circuit. Go with 4 gauge, just make sure you have good clean connections and a very good ground and you will be fine!
But once that 0 gauge was in my car and I had that 1 inch hole in the firewall, there was no way in hell that it was coming out! :mad:
I need to relocate mine, when my car was rebuilt, the guys put too big of a battery in my car, i could just go get another one, but that's what i'm thinking about doing instead of having to rewire stuff..
art_from_ct 05-28-2002, 04:28 PM I moved clean up the engine bay so it looks pretty for the turbo install.:D
MauiBlueGride 05-29-2002, 12:33 PM Hey brian, I forgot about that part lol....
I have 25+ ft of 0ga. streetwire and a ton of fuses/distro boxes. Also have an optima battery. If you wanna use that stuff when we do your swap lemme know.
Chris
TUNED200 05-30-2002, 09:49 PM Chris, i have the battery box, and 4 gague rf wire, a 200amp fuse with block. what do you think? Brian
96stse-r 06-02-2002, 11:54 AM I moved mine over a year ago for better weight distribution. It actually changes distribution about 5%. I chose 0 gauge wire after talking to Larry McLeod (Yazaki Engineer) about it. 1 gauge probably would have sufficed, but I slightly overkill everything. I used the Moroso wiring kit from Summit along with the Westco battery and with some miscellaneous parts from McMaster-Carr. MC has a real nice adjustable battery hold down and terminal covers. I used angle brackets on opposite corners and drilled holes in them for the hold down J-bolts.
I ran the wiring inside the car. The battery sits on the passenger side, so I ran the wiring to the front of the trunk floor and over the wheel well like the wiring that's already there. You can run it under the door sill panels, under the kick panels and then through the wheel well using the existing hole that the rest of the wiring uses. No need for firewall holes. There is an existing hole in the fender to the engine bay also. I put my distribution block there and relocated the fuse boxes from the old battery tray forward of the old airbox resonator hole. I ran the ground cable to a bolt behind the new battery location. I only had a problem with interference with the stereo, so I upgraded the RCA cables from crappy to Monster.
If Webshots was working, you could kind of see what I am talking about here:
trunk (http://community.webshots.com/photo/6684477/6891064uJgKPzGQPR)
and here:
intake mount (http://community.webshots.com/photo/6684477/15931861tEjJpUPduj)
Chris Davis
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