The brake pedal feel on my B14 ITA car SUCKS. The pedal is spongy. The car has no problem stopping, But the pedal does not feel solid like with the AD22VFs that I used to run in RS class.

I am using Hawk Blue front pads and Axxis Ultimate rears.

I know that the reason for this is that the caliper is undersized and it flexs under pressure.

For those who have raced/hotlapped a B13/B14 with the stock caliper/rotors, is there any way to improve pedal feel?

NJ, I assume you have stainless brake lines already.
Try a bench bleed of the master cylinder?
Try a set of Carbotechs on the front?
Get your front brake ducting in line and plan on alternating between lessons in brake management and cracked rotors. Not much else you can do with the AD18's...

Brake feel on my B14 ITA car is the same. Since I never had the AD22VFs in the first place, I never had the experience of a good, progressive brake pedal with this car. This season I'm upgrading with good stainless lines (thanks to G-Spec and Greg V) and a fresh set of cryo'd rotors up front. But I doubt anything is really going to help that soft pedal.

Bigger bore MC?

NJ, I assume you have stainless brake lines already.
Try a bench bleed of the master cylinder?
Try a set of Carbotechs on the front?
Get your front brake ducting in line and plan on alternating between lessons in brake management and cracked rotors. Not much else you can do with the AD18's...
Yeah, I am running SS lines. How do you bench bleed a MC? I was told that a "stiffer" brake pad would help. This will help make the caliper less flex prone.

I was forced to change my braking habits with the AD18s. I am braking a bit earlier and modulating the brake effort more. I guess I just have to get used to it or buy an NX :D

Bigger bore MC?
Not legal in ITA.

Naji, I think you're stuck with that feel.

What some companies will do (like Carbotech and IIRC Porterfield) is they will make the pads extra thick to take up all the room in the caliper. This will give you at least initially a fantastically firm pedal. But it's temporary, as the pads wear the feel deteriorates.

Are you bending the inner plates?

Not legal in ITA.

Too bad the SS trunk kit AD22's aren't either!

Naji, I think you're stuck with that feel.

What some companies will do (like Carbotech and IIRC Porterfield) is they will make the pads extra thick to take up all the room in the caliper. This will give you at least initially a fantastically firm pedal. But it's temporary, as the pads wear the feel deteriorates.

Are you bending the inner plates?

You are right, I have to live with it. I just need to trust the brakes more. With the AD22VF, I had more trust with the stopping abilities of the car.

But at Cal Speedway with the AD18's the car was stopping from 122 mph on the oval to about 50-60 when entering the infield. The car did that consistently w/o a hint of fade. It is just the brake feel does not inspire late braking/trail braking.

I did notice that when the pad is brand new and very thick, the brake feel is much better. Then it starts to deteriorate as the pads wear out.

I have tlaked to several knowledgeable vendors about this and they told me that I have to live with it. But I had to ask this racing community since they know more about this caliper/rotor combo.

God I miss the AD22VF brake feel. Even a harsh critique like Kojima was impressed with the AD22VF brakes on my car.

The main reason why I use Fastbrakes is cheap pads. The 11" kit is not much of an advantage over the NX brakes. The pads are much cheaper and there is a greater variity of racing pads to choose from though.

You are right, I have to live with it. I just need to trust the brakes more. With the AD22VF, I had more trust with the stopping abilities of the car.

But at Cal Speedway with the AD18's the car was stopping from 122 mph on the oval to about 50-60 when entering the infield. The car did that consistently w/o a hint of fade. It is just the brake feel does not inspire late braking/trail braking.

I did notice that when the pad is brand new and very thick, the brake feel is much better. Then it starts to deteriorate as the pads wear out.

I have tlaked to several knowledgeable vendors about this and they told me that I have to live with it. But I had to ask this racing community since they know more about this caliper/rotor combo.

God I miss the AD22VF brake feel. Even a harsh critique like Kojima was impressed with the AD22VF brakes on my car.

Maybe check the M/C staging, then for backing plate bending like Matt said. Dunno about rotor cyro, it might make them less bitey. It would be worth experimenting. Brake cooling ducts as well.

The owner of a local race team suggested to take a pair of old pads, lathe off all the remaining pad material and use them as spacer when your current pads wear down enough that you start to feel the mushy pedal. They use this in there enduro 3 series that has stopteks at all 4 corners... I've yet to try this, seeing as how he mentioned it to me at the last track day of last year.

The owner of a local race team suggested to take a pair of old pads, lathe off all the remaining pad material and use them as spacer when your current pads wear down enough that you start to feel the mushy pedal. They use this in there enduro 3 series that has stopteks at all 4 corners... I've yet to try this, seeing as how he mentioned it to me at the last track day of last year.

Interesting suggestion. But I'm trying to visualize how the clips would hold two backing plates in place. Having the second backing plate go shooting out under heavy braking would, well, just majorly suck! :eek2:

Interesting suggestion. But I'm trying to visualize how the clips would hold two backing plates in place. Having the second backing plate go shooting out under heavy braking would, well, just majorly suck! :eek2:
ehh, I have wilwoods... it would work for them with the cotter pins :tongue: :redface:.

But I'm trying to visualize how the clips would hold two backing plates in place. Having the second backing plate go shooting out under heavy braking would,

I can't visualize how they could come out. :confused: I can't see how there would be enough room to get a backing plate out with the caliper still attached.

Yep, the only place it could shoot out would be between the rotor and the caliper bracket, which means that plate's getting a bit thin and you need to check your pads more than once every 2 seasons... :D

Did I mention I was just trying to visualize it? Now I'm going to visualize smacking both of you upside the head Three Stooges style........
:D

The owner of a local race team suggested to take a pair of old pads, lathe off all the remaining pad material and use them as spacer when your current pads wear down enough that you start to feel the mushy pedal. They use this in there enduro 3 series that has stopteks at all 4 corners... I've yet to try this, seeing as how he mentioned it to me at the last track day of last year.

Good idea.

Now I'm going to visualize smacking both of you upside the head Three Stooges style........
:D

So which Stooge are you then? :D

So which Stooge are you then? :D
Moe...