But here is the problem. The EGR that runs into the stock header on the car is still out in the open. I dont know what the suggestion is on that??? The MAF is a stock one, the JWT ECU is programmed for a Bored Maf. I am going to bore out the MAF tomorrow. Along with those things, the sensor that goes into the Filter part of a Pop Charger is hanging out. I am getting a POP charger tomorrow to fix that. The BOV is not even recirculating into the piping just after the filter. The o2 sensor is spliced from the stock U.S. Harness into the *** spec o2? I wonder if that is getting different signals? I am running no exhaust, I heard that is not a problem for the time being because I want to drive it to the muffler shop to get it fixed. Please tell me if those issues stand out in your mind as major problems. The computer is in "Limp Mode" as we speak and it wont rev over 3 grand, it wont hold an idle. Tonight I started it up to move the car and it had an idle when the car was cold at 900rpm then it dropped as it got warmer then the car stalls out. There is a vacuum leak somewhere and I dont know where it is. The BOV doesnt even open up but I am not sure why? I think because of no vacuum? If you have any answers for me that would be great. If you know anyone that knows the answers to those questions please pass this on. I am wondering if anyone else went through these same issues??? Thanks again and have a good one!

I don't think POP chargers come with a place to put that sensor... I bought a POP charger thinking it came with it, but mine doesn't even have a hole for it :( ... I'm gonna have to make a hole somewhere (maybe on the adapter pipe I have to make, I bought a Cobra POP since I will be using a Cobra MAF later). I'm thinking that some of problems might be because the MAF you are using isn't the same for what it's programmed... and for the EGR, can you just tap the manifold and put it there? I believe that if you have the BOV venting into the atmosphere it will cause you to run rich

Hey Mark have you tried what I mentioned to you the other day? At this point im repeating myself but it sounds like your running on 3 maybe 2 cylinders. Try spraying water on the runners to see if all the cylinders are firing correctly. Who knows maybe its the wires are in the wrong order, bad distributor? But you shouldnt spend anymore money unless you confirm that doing so will actually solve the problems that exist. As for vacuum leaks, and the blow-off valve you shouldnt notice those problems until driving or boosting.

DUde, Mark, you need to call me. Call me after 9 pm western time tomorrow or my work number all day Tuesday. First of all, your EGR shouldn't be a problem. When you are facing the car, you will see two bronze cylinders. The one on the left is your EGR. The one on the right is the BPT. At least on classics. There is a vacuum tube from the BPT cylinder to the EGR cylinder. Take this off, and cap it at the BPT. Technically, your EGR hole in your intake manifold should remain closed. Mine is just hanging as well. Look at my pictures again.

Bore out the MAF soon.

The air temp sensor, you can get away with just ziptieing it near the filter. It doesn't necessarily have to go into your filter. The air temp around the filter is about the same as the air going into the filter. Your air temp rises and falls from being compressed and intercooled anyway so it doesn't matter.

The O2 sensor, USE THE US one. It will eliminate variables. Unless you are going from a 3 wire to 2 wire or vice versa. Just splice and extend the wiring. Did you solder it or use butt plugs? From what I hear, you can't solder the wire with conventional solder. It's platinum or silver, I forgot which.

Your idling problems are either your MAF or O2 sensor. I would say MAF. Not revving past 3 grand is either MAF or O2 sensor. No exhaust is no issue. To test for vacuum leaks, go to www.vfaq.com There are instructions there on how to make a pressure leak tester. I made one and it works great. I found some pinholes in my IC piping with it. Basically a valve stem epoxied to a PVC end cap. Then use an air compressor to pressurize your intake system. What is your vacuum at idle? That's the biggest indicator of vacuum leaks. Other vacuum leaks occur at a certain pressure.

Probably the reason your BOV doesn't work is because either you don't have it tapped in a good spot, OR, since you have a vacuum leak, you don't have enough vacuum to suck it open. Think about it, if you are boosting, and let off, if there is a vacuum leak, say the change in your pressure is 8 psi to -2in/hg. Normally, you would go from 8 psi to -18-20in/hg. That is a big pressure change, which sucks your BOV open.

Terrin, you CAN solder the wires on the O2 sensor. I did. :D However, the wire used on the O2 sensors is not able to be twisted, as it has some kind of strange spring-like quality to it. I can't describe it better than that.

Conventional solder worked fine for me, and my disco-show A/F guage works like it did when NA, so at least I'm getting the proper *type* of signal from the O2 sensor.

Mark, as we discussed on the phone the other night, you've got to get the proper MAF in that car, first and foremost. Secondly, your O2 sensor needs to be the US one, and it needs to be installed for the car to run properly. Third, just block off the EGR stuff. Build/design/steal some sort of plate to block off the opening, and seal the living daylights out of it with RTV.
Fourth, don't worry about your BOV working just yet. You need the car to idle and run smoothly before you go out and boost.

Hang in there, Mark!

Ahh, thanks for the clarification Greg. I was wondering about that. I was just going on what other people told me. I had a hunch they were full of shit or just didn'tknow how to solder when they told me that. Damnit, I should've soldered it. It's got buttplugs on it right now.

Thanks for the replies,
I got the car to idle last night at 900 rpm when I first started it. then it was downhill from there. Tonight I am going to solder the wires together, Take out the MAF and bore it out, block off the EGR or BPT hole(whatever it is, I will find out), and try to get a pipe bent for before the MAF so I can tap into it to recirculate the BOV. Hopefully this will solve most of the problems because it feels like the ECU is holding the car from revving over 3 grand. I am going to do all of the things I mentioned above tonight and let everyone know how it goes tomorrow. I might be giving calls while I am doing this ??? Thanks a lot guys and I will keep in touch.

So you are installing a turbo onto a stock lowport motor? For the EGR just follow the metal tube up to the intake manifold. And remove it. It bolts into a diaphragm. THen just cap it off and cap off the vacuum lines that go to it. That's the cleanest way to do it.

We did a lowport turbo install recently, if you have any other issues just PM me, I don't read the threads here much anymore.

I think O2 sensors use silver or aluminum wire.. weird.. But should be able to solder.

hello,
I am about to give up on this project. I put the U.S. o2 sensor in the car. I also had the MAF bored out to 53mm. The plugs I have changed 3 times in the past 24 hours. They keep coming out with black particles caked on them. The car is running beyond rich and it wont hold an idle. The car will rev to about 3 grand and start to spudder and wont go past there when my foot is on the floor. The BOV is not recirculating. I have an open exhaust from the j-pipe. The IC is working very well. I have S4 cams in the car. Oil is leaking from the return line. The vacuum lines from the BOV and wastegate are in and tightened down. The timing is set at 16 degrees. I can only fit 1 fan back in the car. The EGR tube that runs to the header is capped off with a rubber piece and electrical tape. I am not sure if it is leaking or not. What I am trying to do is to get it to an exhaust shop to get a downpipe and exhaust put on. But I cant drive it there. I cant think of any other things that could have gone wrong. Greg, I tried to get a hold of you and no answer. Hopefully we can reach each other over the phone to talk about this. I am just tired of this car not running and just sitting there while Art and I and a few others work our asses off every night we can for hours on end. This should have been a 2 day project and it has turned into a 3 week nightmare. Please help, I hope to get some feedback but please let me know what your opinions are! Thanks

Originally posted by MarkSR20
I also had the MAF bored out to 53mm. The plugs ... keep coming out with black particles caked on them ... The car will rev to about 3 grand and start to spudder and wont go past thereCan you put another MAF on there? The fact that it stops at around 3k is indicative of the ECU in "limp" mode. The caked plugs are also a tattle tale sign that the ECU is overcompensating by dumping lots of fuel. The MAF sensor should be your first suspect; check connections, check voltage, swap the sensor.

Mark--

I'm with the cowboy on this one. MAF seems to be the issue here.

I can offer up my spare DE MAF that I have. Don't know if it will work, but what the hey...

Check ALL wiring connections to the MAF. Then, check them again with a voltmeter. Re-ground per SE-R.net instructions, if necessary.

Check ALL intercooler connections in the piping for leaks. Check them again when you're done.

Check ALL injectors and the o-rings that seal them up.

Methodical is the mental approach needed now, Mark. Just take one small area of the car at a time, verify it is working properly, then move on.

You're almost there, and I know the feeling of wanting to just drive the car off a bridge. The good news: It gets better from here on out.

-GP-

I'm not sure if the computer would throw any codes if it would be in limpd*ck mode. We have reset the ecu on tuesday I think and it has not thrown any codes at us. Is there anyway to find out if an injector might be stuck open ?


My head hurts from the exhaust fumes... we are so close.
I think Mark and I just have to lock ourselves in the garage and not let anyone in for about 12 hours !

Mark, heres a "REDNECK" way of checking for vac leaks.

Find a buddy that smokes, take off any vac hose and have your buddy take a big puff off his sigamo. Tell him to immediately put out the cig, as you do not want to mix the cig smoke with the smoke he is going to puff on the hose with. Now, tell him to blow the smoke into the vac hose you took off, then immediately plug it back on. If the vac leak is significant enough, which it sounds like it is, then you will see smoke rolling out of the leak.

Good ole KY....I tell ya...

why don't u try a j-spec intake manifold if u can locate 1 it doesn't have anyof the egr stuff it'sall block up, remove the metal pipe and plug it up courtesy nissan has a plug that just screws right into the hole's call bian it's called and egr plug hope that helps

Originally posted by art_from_ct
I'm not sure if the computer would throw any codes if it would be in limpd*ck mode.Well, if you hooked a scanner to it, you could still read existing codes, but I don't think it would actually set new ones while limping or even to tell you that it were limping. I don't know, though. You may need a CONSULT; you do just happen to have one of those lying around, don't you? ;)Is there anyway to find out if an injector might be stuck open ?If that were the case, you should only have one fouled plug. I think Mark and I just have to lock ourselves in the garage and not let anyone in for about 12 hours ! Or maybe you need to do the exact opposite...it's Friday, hit the town. Go watch a movie. Take your SO out for supper (don't forget to scrub the grease from under your fingernails), and DON'T talk about cars. Even if she "doesn't mind." Watch a game on TV. Go Bowling. Just stay out of the garage. You'll be much more mentally prepared tomorrow.

Originally posted by DEAD SE-RIOUS
why don't u try a j-spec intake manifold if u can locate 1 it doesn't have anyof the egr stuff it'sall block up, remove the metal pipe and plug it up courtesy nissan has a plug that just screws right into the hole's call bian it's called and egr plug hope that helps

He can't use the JDM intake manifold, most are high ports. He has a low port motor.

I've seen this happen too many times now. Ya'll need to STOP doing so much to a car at once. Turbo+clutch+ECU/injectors+intercooler system+MAF+all this crap should NOT be put on at the same time. The first thing you should do is put in the clutch. Break it in. After a week or two, get the proper JWT ECU/injectors/MAF combination and install them, NA. Run that around for a week or so. If you are installing cams, do that next. I expect the ECU has the S3/S4 program already.

NOW, and ONLY NOW, are you ready to install the turbo system. If you do it all at once and it doesn't work, you'll end up like John and Mark and Eric T. and many others- you will have NO idea what's not working because you installed too much crap at the same time.

End of rant. I'm making an FAQ.

Alright Ben,
Here is the shit I dont like to hear. I would of appreciated some type of nice response to the topic I stated. Here is my point:
- I installed the cams 10 months before the install.
- I installed the clutch 3 weeks before the install with my suspension.
- The injectors and turbo where put on all at once.
I understand to an extent where you are coming from with not having everything put on at once. But dont start calling out names of people that are in the same situation I am in because all we want are suggestions to solving the problem. Personally I dont think it matters if you put 50 parts on a car at once compared to one! If you recall John Minnic's install at your residence, it seemed like a lot of parts went on his car. For assurance on having a car that runs on the spot then I understand your point. It is easier to cancel out the problems by just installing the parts one by one. But for my situation I put all the turbo parts in at once and this is where I stand.

Thanks for the replies everyone:
I have narrowed it down to a few things-1) the car is flooded so I am going to give it a tune up(again).
2) Check the MAF and call up JWT and ask if they have ever put a bored maf program on a B14 ecu with a 3 bar fuel program. It almost seems like a waste.
3) hope and pray!! If that doesnt work I am going to check other vacuum hoses and all of the intercooler piping. The car is in limp mode and I hope it gets out of it soon. It is not pulling a code either, it says 5-5 for a code which reads "all systems good"!

I will keep everyone up to date on the progress. Thanks again!

Mark, it doesn't even make sense to have a bored MAF and 370CC injectors. You most likely do not have the right program. I doubt JWT would even make this program.

Originally posted by 92SE-R
Mark, it doesn't even make sense to have a bored MAF and 370CC injectors. You most likely do not have the right program. I doubt JWT would even make this program.

JWT does offer up that program, Terrin. However...the only apps I've heard it used for require the 4-bar fuel program. Andreas Miko suggested that would be THE sh!t for a T28 car.

I have never heard of the bored MAF, 370 program with the standard 3-bar pressure, however.

=GP=