Well i not sure if anyone ran into this problem while installing FPR on a DET. The stock FPR screws strpping after over night and hours of WD-40. I am thinking of just to take out the fuel rail out to get to it better!
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c322/dmp316/SD530065.jpg

Well, that sucks. I would try vise grips, or maybe get a dremel to cut a slot in there for a flathead. Just be very careful not to make any sparks.

Those screws can be a bitch. Same goes for the injector cap screws. This is where an impact screwdriver is your best friend.

C

when that happened to me i took off the rail and vice gripped those little bastards off. once you get them off you might want to invest in some of these
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=144617

I would try Visegrips or before that, try one of those "screwdrivers" that you hammer on for additional torque - the technical name escapes me right now. AutoZone usually has them for like $10.

Josh

Edit: Chriscar was thinking the same thing. I guess I should refresh the post after walking away for 15 minutes. :)

This is my secret weapon. Don't scoff at it because it's only 9.6v. I already have an 18v DeWalt behemoth, and I wanted to get something nice and lightweight so I could use it all over the car, especially the engine bay. This has come to be one of my favorite, most used tools.

http://bosch.cpotools.com/images/product/medium/23609-rt.jpg

http://bosch.cpotools.com/impact_drivers_-_wrenches/23609-rt.html
C

Thanks everyone for the info, man i thought i was the only one with this problem, those screws for bastards for real:biggthump

WD-40 is not the best at breaking loose nuts/bolts/etc. Try some PB Blaster. There's some other stuff which is REALLY well, but I can't remember the name and you don't find it in regular stores.... I want to say it starts with a K. Kaeroil or something?

A trick my dad showed me when I was doing the FPR was to take a flathead screwdriver, hammer, and use those to hit he side of the screws from a couple different angles. It did the trick for me. Don't go swinging away too hard though :)

WD-40 is not the best at breaking loose nuts/bolts/etc. Try some PB Blaster. There's some other stuff which is REALLY well, but I can't remember the name and you don't find it in regular stores.... I want to say it starts with a K. Kaeroil or something?

A trick my dad showed me when I was doing the FPR was to take a flathead screwdriver, hammer, and use those to hit he side of the screws from a couple different angles. It did the trick for me. Don't go swinging away too hard though :)

this this the PB stuff u talking about? http://www.pbblaster.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1 . I am just going to take out the entire rail to get to it better

You do not need to remove the whole fuel rail. Just get yourself a set of these:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00952154000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
I had the same issue, one bolt came out with easy, the other started to strip. The trick is (a) spray the bolt with some PB and let them soak overnight (like everyone else suggested) and (b) the most important step (i) use the right size screw driver/bit (#2 or Phillips I think) (ii) and applying alot of pressure onto the screw as you turn it. What alot of people suggest is getting a long screwdriver (12-14" long and lean onto it (pressure) when you turn the screwdriver. If you don't it will strip the head. Oh, and when use use a screw-out bit, again apply pressure so it bites in the the stripped head. Once you've got the stubborn bolt(s) out, replace both screws with a Allen head cap screw. I believe they are an M5x0.8 and 10mm long. I used the same bolts to hold down water bottle holders on bicycles. You know all the threaded bosses located on the down/seat tubes.

Actually, I just remembered, I first tired those Sears 'Screw-Out' bits, and they didn't really work. They only helped to strip the screw more. I instead picked up a slightly different version of a 'screw-out' bit called 'graBIT' http://canadiantire.com/include/products/inc_product_zoom_display.jsp?

Now I got these from Canadian Tire, but I live in Canada! LOL But I'm sure some other similar hardware store sells the exact same thing, but under a different name. This set sells for about $30cdn. What you do with on the one end is you drill into the offending screw bolt first, then flip it over and use the extracting end that bite into and removes the screw/bolt. Worked Like a charm!

So to make a long story short, you don't need to do more work by removing the entire fuel rail, buy the right tool and you'll get the job done. Like I need to give you a good excuse.........ah correction, reason to buy more tools! LOL :rofl:

You not need to remove the whole fuel rail. Just get yourself a set of these:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00952154000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
I had the same issue, one bolt came out with easy, the other started to strip. The trick is (a) spray the bolt with some PB and let them soak overnight (like everyone else suggested) and (b) the most important step (i) use the right size screw driver/bit (#2 or Phillips I think) (ii) and applying alot of pressure onto the screw as you turn it. What alot of people suggest is getting a long screwdriver (12-14" long and lean onto it (pressure) when you turn the screwdriver. If you don't it will strip the head. Oh, and when use use a screw-out bit, again apply pressure so it bites in the the stripped head. Once you've got the stubborn bolt(s) out, replace both screws with a Allen head cap screw. I believe they are an M5x0.8 and 10mm long. I used the same bolts to hold down water bottle holders on bicycles. You know all the threaded bosses located on the down/seat tubes.

Actually, I just remembered, I first tired those Sears 'Screw-Out' bits, and they didn't really work. They only helped to strip the screw more. I instead picked up a slightly different version of a 'screw-out' bit called 'graBIT' http://canadiantire.com/include/products/inc_product_zoom_display.jsp?

Now I got these from Canadian Tire, but I live in Canada! LOL But I'm sure some other similar hardware store sells the exact same thing, but under a different name. This set sells for about $30cdn. What you do with on the one end is you drill into the offending screw bolt first, then flip it over and use the extracting end that bite into and removes the screw/bolt. Worked Like a charm!

So to make a long story short, you don't need to do more work by removing the entire fuel rail, buy the right tool and you'll get the job done. Like I need to give you a good excuse.........ah correction, reason to buy more tools! LOL :rofl:

omg that was awesome. Thanks man for the info and the help:biggthump

omg that was awesome. Thanks man for the info and the help:biggthump
No problem! I hate to say it, but I'm known for long winded replies/posts, :rolleyes: :eek2: but I rather do that and explain myself and/or experience as best I can so it can help others! :rofl: LOL

Actually, I found pics from my install.

The stubborn screw:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i130/slimlou/My%20Ride%20Pics/Nismo%20FPR%20Install/b-NismoFPRInstall001.jpg

What I used to get that stubborn screw out:
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i130/slimlou/My%20Ride%20Pics/Nismo%20FPR%20Install/b-NismoFPRInstall003.jpg

The Nismo AFPR installed! (Notice the Allen-Head Screw used for the install)
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i130/slimlou/My%20Ride%20Pics/Nismo%20FPR%20Install/b-NismoFPRInstall005.jpg

man that is awesome, this is the only thing holding me back from getting my car tuned. Thanks man