adjusting timing [Archive] - SR20 Forum

: adjusting timing


scooter
05-21-2002, 11:07 AM
I recently tried to adjust the timing on my 95 200SX SE-R, for optimum performance of course. I followed all the directions from the SR20 web site, which says to warm the engine, disconnect the tps, rev 3 times to clear the computer and stabilize the timing.
The problem i'm having is that my idle never went below 1800 rpm the whole time i had the tps disconnected. Is this normal. I had kinda figured this would make the timing setting inaccurate because the rpm is not between 800-1000. Am I doing something wrong or is this normal and how it's done?

NismoNx2000
05-21-2002, 01:59 PM
You have to adjust the idle down to 800 with the tps disconnected. Locate the idle adjust screw and turn it until the idle is where you want it. Then go about checking the timing with the timing light and adjust it by turning the distributor. HOpe this helps...

scooter
05-22-2002, 08:30 AM
Thanks for the help. I know everyone says "the only stupid question is the one you don't ask" but maybe this one qualifies. Where the hell is that damn idle screw!? I looked and can not find it unless it's staring me right in the face. The only thing I saw is a big black plastic one on the other end of the intake on top. I'm not sure if this is it and i didn't want to just start turning stuff and making it worse.

NismoPC
05-22-2002, 09:21 AM
Originally posted by scooter
The only thing I saw is a big black plastic one on the other end of the intake on top. I'm not sure if this is it and i didn't want to just start turning stuff and making it worse.

That's it! ;) On the left side of the intake near fuel injector #1.

scooter
05-22-2002, 09:58 AM
Thank you! I was hoping that was it. Why the hell all the way down on the other end opposite the intake and linkage.?

scooter
05-23-2002, 01:28 PM
Tried adjusting again yesterday evening. Dialed in the black screw at the other end as far as it would go and Still couldn't get the damn thing to come down below 1200 rpm! Finally I spotted a small stop screw at the bottom of the linkage where the cable throttle wheel is. I wanted to adjust this also but didn't know if this is a big no-no or no problem. Please let me know. Guess i shouldn't be so afraid to try it but am just concerned that i will mess it up bad and not have the knowledge to un-f#$% it.

NismoPC
05-23-2002, 01:39 PM
Originally posted by scooter
Tried adjusting again yesterday evening. Dialed in the black screw at the other end as far as it would go and Still couldn't get the damn thing to come down below 1200 rpm!

Aw! Gotcha. Don't adjust the other screw.

Your EGR/BPT might be clogged up, etc. Or you are not revving it the three times over 3000 to lock the ecu in. www.se-r.net has some right ups on this. Might wanna check that out.

NXBen
05-23-2002, 01:45 PM
Do not adjust that stop screw on the throttle cable! :eek:

Hopefully you adjusted the idle screw back to where it was when you started. If you can't adjust the idle, then your car is not in timing mode. The other way to tell you are not in timing mode is that when you look at the timing with your timing light, it is jumping all over the place or it is way past 20 degrees. If you are in timing mode, the timing should be pretty steady.

Some cars seem to be easier to get into timing mode than others. Some people have had success by removing the IAAC (I think that's the acronym) connector as well as the TPS. The IAAC connector is on the passenger side of the intake. It faces down and towards the back of the car.

I time my car with the following procedire:

1) Warm up the car
2) Hold at 2000 RPMs for 2 minutes
3) Rev past 3000 once
4) shut off engine
5) Disconnect TPS
6) Start car
7) Rev past 3000 3 times
8) Time it.

Good Luck!
Ben

scooter
05-23-2002, 02:35 PM
Tried all that stuff as i said in the first message. Sr20net is where i got all the directions in the first place. The problem I am running in to is the car was owned by some shady people that loved to mess with all the engine stuff without any knowledge of what they were doing. The car is excellent and i can't complain on the performance, but hard to say what they had adjusted when it shouldn't have been touched. I am taking nothing for granted. That's why i am asking so many questions, so i have all the possible angles covered.

To get back to the point though, I did rev past 3000rpm 3-4 times to get the idle to come down. The idle never did jump around. Just stayed at about 2000 no matter what procedure i followed. That's why I am guessing the people before me maybe had moved the stop screw.

NXBen
05-23-2002, 03:44 PM
I don't think it has anything to do with the stop screw. I think the problem is that you are not getting the ECU into timing mode.

I wasn't talking about the idle jumping around, I was talking about the timing. If the ECU is not in "set timing" mode, then you will not be able to adjust the idle with the idle adjust screw. Also, If you shine the timing light on the crank and it is jumping around, you are not in timing mode.

Try doing the procedure again and when you disconnect the TPS, also disconnect the AAC connector. That's how I had to do it the first time I set my timing.

Ben

scooter
05-24-2002, 05:00 PM
I am sure it's getting in timing mode because, like you mentioned, the idle able to be adjusted and the timing remains very steady. The problem is that I just can't get the idle down far enough to time it accurately (800rpm). I got a clue when i checked the timing for the first time and it is adjusted at 15-16 at 2000 rpm. I am assuming that that's the best the people before me could get it and just set it at that speed. Any more ideas are very welcome at this point. If you read this please just leave a suggestion. Nothing can hurt at this point. Thanks.

NXBen
05-24-2002, 06:24 PM
Hmmmm.... Well, if you're sure you're in timing mode.... How does your car idle normally? Is it a rough idle, or is it pretty good?

The only other thing I can think of is that maybe you have skipped a tooth on the timing chain. I think you would be able to get the idle correct even with a skipped tooth, though. Look at the distributor. Is the screw about in the middle of the slot? If not, you probably have skipped a tooth.

Maybe the throttle cable is too tight. That would effect the normal idle of the car, though, not just when it was in timing mode.

Is it possible the throttle plate is getting stuck? Did you try cleaning out your throttle body? Is the MAF grounded properly (don't think that would effect timing mode)?

I'll let you know if I think of anything else.

Ben

scooter
05-26-2002, 04:15 PM
The car idles very smooth and does not jump around. I have gone ahead and adjusted the stop screw on the linkage. I brought the idle down to 800 rpm and the timing is set dead on without any jumping around. The car runs and accelerates better than before and I have double checked everything at least 3 times. I have heard that adjusting that screw was a no-no but it may have been out of adjustment from the last owner messing with it. Is there any thing i should look out for now?
As far and grounding the MAF, I have already done it. I soldered a new wire in to the old and did not cut the old one. I helped a little also. It brought the resistance way down, which was over 13 when i started. Thanks for the help everyone! Let me know if I've severely screwed something up by adjusting that screw.!?

MadManMagee
06-10-2002, 01:23 PM
one small question??:confused:
What exactly is a timing light??

scooter
06-10-2002, 03:08 PM
dude! I hope you are joking! If you aren't the I will explain breifly. It is a special light that will tell you when the #1 piston is firing. This is needed in order to set your "timing" correctly. You shine this light at your crank pulley and it will flash at the same speed as your firing on #1. Then you can adjust your timing to spec. Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask. I just assume you're joking but if not i apologize.