A little background first. Back in Nov 2000. My car dynoed at 142whp with basic bolt ons minus ECU and JWT cams, but a '93 intake cam. I bought a JWT ECU in Feb of '01 from Apex, but got a S3 ECU, but I didn't have S3s. I dynoed the car, and showed a loss. I figured it was the ECU. I traded with someone for a regular JWT ECU because he had cams and needed the program. I didn't dyno for a few months to amost a year with this new ECU. I bought S3s after the convention this year and dynoed about 2 weeks after installing them. No gain, actually showed a loss from the 142hp run. The differenes from this run to the 142hp run was HS CAI instead of PR, Courtest muffler instead of $tillen, and JWT ECU with cams. I figured it was the ECU. I ordered teh S3 program and dynoed this past Sunday. Still no gain. I was about to bang my head on the floor I was so pissed. The only thing I could think of was the dyno was moved across the room because the old lift failed. Since this move, I was showing losses, eventhough I had added proven mods. I was talking to Ray Kawski on IM today, and he asked about a compression check. I ran the check today with a borrowed gauge. 140 140 140 90. All these numbers are low. I went and bought a new gauge tonight and checked again after I let the car warm up. 178 178 180 90. I have 2 options: Pull the head/motor, or trade her in. I don't want to do option 2, but I don't want to drop $700 in a 5 year old car. I feel like I just found out one of my children has a terminal disease or something. I don't hjave kids, so maybe I'm over reacting. I bought this car with 7 miles on it, and have loved it the entire time. A fired suggested trading it in on a Spec V, and using the money to pay my wife's '97 off. Mine is paid for. I can't afford 2 car payments right now, so I'll only trade it in if I get enough to pay the '97 off. What would you do?

I would keep it and rebuild it at a time when the cost won't be such a sting to you. As long as the car still runs fine the only loss you really have to be concerned with right now is the fact that it's a little slower then it should be.

At minimum if you keep it for a little while you can take the money you save up to either get it fixed or pay off your other car and buy the Spec V.

Maybe you should see how much a dealer will give you for it and if it's enough to pay off the other car at least you'll know your options.

But again, personally if it were mine I would fix it. I much prefer the Classic to the Spec V.

Sounds like you have an excuse to get a det or a ve. This way you can still keep the car you have taken care of and loved for so long. :)
But you did say you don't want to spend that money on a 5 year old car...whats wrong with that? :confused:

Hey Eric, sorry to hear about the troubles man.. This one is pretty tough decision to do man... Is there anyway you can just use your 97 as a daily driver? I would try to keep your 97 as long as you can so you can hurry up and pay off the wifes car.. If you cant afford 2 payments, then that is what i would do... What if the wife started to pay on her car, maybe you could trade or swap out the parts and you pay that, while your wife pays on her car until you guys get things settled, keep us informed :(

I'm sorry, this is my '96.

Swap the JDM 10:1 compression motor in ther

I have to agree with Chrissy and Thomas. I would wait till I had the money and swap in an SR20VE or SR16VE or a DET. That way, you will have the benefits of spending less moeny than on a new car, not wasting those 5 years you've spent building it up, and having a WAY faster and better car than you would get with the same money of buying a new car and starting from scratch.

At least, that's what I would do...

Damn, only 90 in the 4th cylinder? Wow.

it was switching from PR to HS cai

I'd say get the JDM SR, swap all your parts while it's on the stand. Get all new belts, replace some of the rubber hoses that are bound to crack, do a tune-up, and radiator flush. If you have some extra cash, put in a nice clutch and a lightened flywheel. There you go, you've got an old car with a new attitude costing around $1250. If you don't mind a new car payment and the bump in insurance I would go with a black spec V, but that's just me.

I'm going to try and see if I can get leakdown done this week. It could be something simple as a head swap. I'll know more after the leak down. If I get a Spec V, it will be white. Both the 200s are black, and eventhough they look very good clean, its a btich to get them that way. The white just looks mean.

If i were you i would definately keep the car and like the others said, simply put in a jdm sr20....that will solve your problem and you can simply swap all your parts onto that engine. And there you go!

I swear *** that 90 just doesnt sound right. Kinda like maybe the plug threads are screwed up and not allowing the guage to fully seal. With that low of compression i would suspect that its more than just rings if it is that low. Rings would have been somewhat fixed with that cap full of oil in the hole. For running on what may be 3 cylinders that car is hella fast. I just dont think it is, it may have a little leak but i dont think shes a metro right now.

Your other option is to get the b13 back from your sister and drive it while you decide on the b14. If that cylinder is really dead...i dont know. Trade in bait maybe but im with you, anti car payment. Could do a swap of some sort, but you know how fun they are and the issues with them.

Eric, you do know what I have gone through with my 7 year old car correct? Let me just see:

- broke a head bolt, did head swap and turbo install at Bens

- Spun a bearing on DE turboed, dropped in DET at JGY's

- Split Transmission case in 2 at the track on 15.3 PSI and Wheel Hop

- Now the turbo has so much shaft play it hits the compressor housing when it spools.


So, having seen your car first hand and its MINT condition that it is in, I would say drop the hammer and fix it! Even though I have gone through hell with mine, I love it as much if not more than when I first got it. I am not saying you will regret the trade-in, but what if you do, you will never love a car the same way.

Yeah, I know too much thought, I just hate to see a fellow B14'er do something they may regret down the road! :D

Eric, have you looked under the valve cover again? Are the shims and rocker arms OK? Rotate the cams with the valve cover off and watch the valves from that cyclinder.

I'm interested in hearing the leakdown results. If that is OK, its probably something with the airflow (valves, intake ports/manifold). If not, well...

Maybe you could trade it in on a SpecV and have whoever you get a loan through pay off the 97 and add the amount to your new car loan.

Jason, I'm going to pull the valve cover tonight. After swapping an axle in the '91, and dealing with the compression junk, I was worn out. I'm hoping its just a shim or something easy. I'll keep everyone posted.

but I don't want to drop $700 in a 5 year old car

I'm about to drop about 5 times that in a 11 year old car. If you like the car keep it, if your tired of messing with it, sell it.
I was thinking something cam/intake related too. But dynoing at 140ish with a cylinder (actually) that low is kinda weird. Anyways you know better than I what you can afford to do. GOOD LUCK!

P.S. I dynoed at 133hp with Hotshot Header, ECU, CAI , JG cams, and exhuast so don't feel bad!

I say before you decide on anything go to the dealer first and see what you can get on a trade in. If it's not a good deal then you'll know right there that it's worth keeping and fixing.

If they will give you a good deal, then consider the trade in.

IMO if they give a good deal take it. If you can get the other one paid off on that trade in and afford the Spec V go for. I for one have always rather get a new car rather then fixing up old ones. Maybe it's because I get bored quickly with cars. But also look at this way, if you get the SpecV you going to have a car with a warrenty, which I don't know how Nissan is with mods, but it's nice to have a warrenty if anything goes wrong.

I would consider a JDM 10:1 motor strongly. A VE is going to be expensive and doesn't sound like what you want to do. A good JDM should be less then a complete rebuild. If you are interested I will have an extra 98 sr20de for sale after I do my VE swap.

Steve